please help!
- Thread starter fliver
- Start date
summoner12
Avid Member
awww
we'll do the best we can at making him happy
we bought him a few large hornworms from the store
and we are in the process of cleaning his entire cage out
and making it look sweet
he's never been as stressed out as today though
Be sure not to change the cage around... That will stress him just as much as a vet visit.
fliver
New Member
we just changed it so he has more privacy
his plants and sticks are all in the same places
they aren't injections... thankfully!
that woud be really hard to do.
we just have to squirt it from the syringe into his mouth
the doctor only gave us 2 syringes
should we go buy more so that he doesn't get infected again from the syringe?
we aren't injecting it into him though, so would we be able to reuse if we thoroughly clean them each time?
and we were also wondering if we could inject his silkworms instead?
his plants and sticks are all in the same places
they aren't injections... thankfully!
that woud be really hard to do.
we just have to squirt it from the syringe into his mouth
the doctor only gave us 2 syringes
should we go buy more so that he doesn't get infected again from the syringe?
we aren't injecting it into him though, so would we be able to reuse if we thoroughly clean them each time?
and we were also wondering if we could inject his silkworms instead?
summoner12
Avid Member
I just nabbed some syringes from my GF's family. They are for giving their cat insulin. I plan to inject some wax worms with Baytril. Jake has been stressing out a lot when it comes to being given his meds. I just hope that he'll eat the right worm...
Eric Adrignola
Avid Member
What's in the flukers stuff - sure it doesn't have D3?
Two 10.0's is not too much, especially in a reptarium. In a large cage, he shoudl easily be able to escape the UVB radiation. I would not use a 5.0 on a reptarium - they block so much of it. A 240 gallon reptarium is a very large cage - you can't appreciate it unless you see one.
I'd forgo the 24" fixture and pick up a 48" one. They're usually cheaper (seriously), and the bulbs cost the same, 18" to 48". Might as well go with the bigger one. As long as there are plants, and he can escape the UVB, he should be fine.
I've never heard of someone having a chameleon develop eye problems when they used a regular reptisun (5.0 or 10.0) and provided the chameleon a way to escape.
Generally, I use one reptisun 10.0 and one "daylight" bulb in the 48" fixtures. A double-tube 48" fixture is only about $8 at lowes or home depot. They're kinda cheapo, with no replacable ballast, but they last for ever. I've still got my first one, and it's 7 years old ( I have 8 now).
48" is definatly the way to go. More light, less money.
Two 10.0's is not too much, especially in a reptarium. In a large cage, he shoudl easily be able to escape the UVB radiation. I would not use a 5.0 on a reptarium - they block so much of it. A 240 gallon reptarium is a very large cage - you can't appreciate it unless you see one.
I'd forgo the 24" fixture and pick up a 48" one. They're usually cheaper (seriously), and the bulbs cost the same, 18" to 48". Might as well go with the bigger one. As long as there are plants, and he can escape the UVB, he should be fine.
I've never heard of someone having a chameleon develop eye problems when they used a regular reptisun (5.0 or 10.0) and provided the chameleon a way to escape.
Generally, I use one reptisun 10.0 and one "daylight" bulb in the 48" fixtures. A double-tube 48" fixture is only about $8 at lowes or home depot. They're kinda cheapo, with no replacable ballast, but they last for ever. I've still got my first one, and it's 7 years old ( I have 8 now).
48" is definatly the way to go. More light, less money.
When using oral medications this is what I do...
pour a little bit (as close to one dose as you can so you don't waste it) into a small container (bottle cap) and suck it into the syringe from there. This way you don't put a used syringe into the actual meds. so you can use the meds again for other chameleons if you need to (with the vet's permission). I then rinse the syringe out with hot water and use it again in the same manner for the next dose.
Be careful when you put the meds into the chameleon's mouth that you don't squirt it in and cause the chameleon to aspirate the meds.
Hopefully the mouth rot will be cleared up with the first attempt...but don't be surprised if it isn't...especially if the pus wasn't cleaned out and a culture and sensitivity test done.
pour a little bit (as close to one dose as you can so you don't waste it) into a small container (bottle cap) and suck it into the syringe from there. This way you don't put a used syringe into the actual meds. so you can use the meds again for other chameleons if you need to (with the vet's permission). I then rinse the syringe out with hot water and use it again in the same manner for the next dose.
Be careful when you put the meds into the chameleon's mouth that you don't squirt it in and cause the chameleon to aspirate the meds.
Hopefully the mouth rot will be cleared up with the first attempt...but don't be surprised if it isn't...especially if the pus wasn't cleaned out and a culture and sensitivity test done.
As for the d3. I got my information from Dave Weldon who has done extensive research on this. Testing the amount of UVB with every type of cage. Dave was also helping one of the light manufacturers do to a problem with some of their compact bulbs that were causing blistering in chams and even death. He stated that reptisun 5.0 was plenty for reptariums and other mesh cages. Having said that, It's hard to argue with Kinyonga's success with chameleons. In my opinion, 2X10 UVB is too much. So I guess will just have to agree to disagree on this subject. I guess it's what works for you and if 2 10's aren't causing any problems for you, then it hang with it. Good luck and keep us updated. David
fliver
New Member
thanks guys for all the good info
yes 260 gallon cage is huge
he definently has plenty enough room to get away from the uvb lights
we'll have to make a trip to home depot or lowes for the fixtures
i didn't know you could get them that cheap
and yes apparently the fluckers stuff has D-3 in it
so that was a waste of money
do they even sell calcium without D-3?
how does the cham aspirate the meds?
what do you do instead of squirting it in?
first attempt? how many attempts does it usually take?
we couldn't see any pus when he had his mouth open
does this mean we caught it at an early stage? or is there always pus?
the doc didn't say anything about having a culture and sensitivity test done, she just recommended a kidney analysis
yes 260 gallon cage is huge
he definently has plenty enough room to get away from the uvb lights
we'll have to make a trip to home depot or lowes for the fixtures
i didn't know you could get them that cheap
and yes apparently the fluckers stuff has D-3 in it
so that was a waste of money
do they even sell calcium without D-3?
how does the cham aspirate the meds?
what do you do instead of squirting it in?
first attempt? how many attempts does it usually take?
we couldn't see any pus when he had his mouth open
does this mean we caught it at an early stage? or is there always pus?
the doc didn't say anything about having a culture and sensitivity test done, she just recommended a kidney analysis
Eric Adrignola
Avid Member
I'd get minerall 0 . It's got calcium and other minerals. I use that and rep-cal with D3.
the end result is esentially the same - tiny doses of D3, good amounts of calcium - as what others suggest. what I do is mix repcal and minerall 0 so that I get about a 1:3 ratio of repcal with D3 to Minerall without D3. Repcal has a LOT of D3 in it, so a very little goes a long way. I use this very often, no less than twice a week.
they get one or two crickets with a small amount of dust on them. It's worked out very well. For me, it works better to give them more frequent dustings of a smaller amount than less frequent dustings with a larger amount (that means it's easier for me to remember the dosage!
I pretty much keep it proportionate to the feedings - every other feeding, they get one or two crickets lightly dusted. This way, if they're eating a lot (growing or breeding), they get a bit more calcium.
The reason I'd go with a 10.0 over a 5.0 is that the radiation on a 5.0 does not penetrate very far at all. In a 240 gallon cage, you've got a LOT of space that would be esentially UVB free even with a 10.0. The cage is like 70"x30"x30". I can fit in one easily.
the end result is esentially the same - tiny doses of D3, good amounts of calcium - as what others suggest. what I do is mix repcal and minerall 0 so that I get about a 1:3 ratio of repcal with D3 to Minerall without D3. Repcal has a LOT of D3 in it, so a very little goes a long way. I use this very often, no less than twice a week.
they get one or two crickets with a small amount of dust on them. It's worked out very well. For me, it works better to give them more frequent dustings of a smaller amount than less frequent dustings with a larger amount (that means it's easier for me to remember the dosage!
I pretty much keep it proportionate to the feedings - every other feeding, they get one or two crickets lightly dusted. This way, if they're eating a lot (growing or breeding), they get a bit more calcium.
The reason I'd go with a 10.0 over a 5.0 is that the radiation on a 5.0 does not penetrate very far at all. In a 240 gallon cage, you've got a LOT of space that would be esentially UVB free even with a 10.0. The cage is like 70"x30"x30". I can fit in one easily.
fliver
New Member
okay that sounds good
we do have minerall o
hopefully he will be able to start eating his crickets again soon
should we be supplementing his silkworms now or no?
since his tongue is swollen he hasn't been able to shoot his tongue to get crickets,
so its easier for him to eat worms
yea both my boyfriend and i can fit in his cage and we're both 6ft.
we do have minerall o
hopefully he will be able to start eating his crickets again soon
should we be supplementing his silkworms now or no?
since his tongue is swollen he hasn't been able to shoot his tongue to get crickets,
so its easier for him to eat worms
yea both my boyfriend and i can fit in his cage and we're both 6ft.
