Please Help

Chamlover89 said:
just out of curiosity in your husbandry review form you said they a few times not he or she. Do you have more than one cham in the cage together? Or was it just a pronoun accident?
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Apologies not sure how that got underlined. Anyway probably not related just struck my curiosity.
 
CrisBruns said:
What do you think about the supplement regimen?
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It is incorrect... Reptivite without D3 is just a multivitamin. Over supplementation can happen if used everyday. I am not seeing any calcium with or without D3. And under T8 lighting which would be a cause for concern.
 
Antoinetteandco said:
Same , I need to learn more ?. Thank you though!!!
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You will learn. There is a lot of different info that goes around. Reading threads is the best way to learn quickly. Keeping in mind that some of the old threads have outdated info. It is just important to make sure that what we are sharing with others needing help is correct. Learn the basics first and the rest starts falling into place. :)
 
You said..."His back legs move but it is like he doesn't know what to do with them. He is wobbly, and drags his back end over his vines."...this sounds like MBD...please post some recent photos of your chameleon please so I can see all of him from the side.

Also some photos of his cage.
 
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Will put my responses in red.
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Moe has been with me for 4 to 5 months. As I said he is a veiled Chamelion and is a male.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Every now and again as he is grumpy and stresses when you get close to him. He turns black and green and hisses when I try to reach for hi. This is pretty typical of veileds. You may want to slowly build up trust with him thru hand feeding.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Crickets he devoures them. He gets 10 to 15 a day. He is also given BSF 2 times a week, wax worms. I used to give him horn worms, but I think he got bitten by one so now he runs from them. Dubai roaches now and again, but he really doesn't eat them. I put greens along with finely diced melon usually cantaloupe. He has not eatten any if the greens or melon though. That seems like a lot of feeders per day. Eventually you’ll be needing to cut back to every other day. Roaches are better sources of nutrition than crickets, so keep working on getting him to accept. Instead of hornworms, you could try silkworms...another great nutritional feeder and good for hydration. I would skip trying to give anything other than bugs for now. They don’t need anything but bugs. How are you gutloading? Whatever you put into your feeders, will end up in your cham. It’s more about passing nutrition to the cham and not just keeping the bugs alive. Will attach feeder and gutload infographics for you.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • I use Reptavite Calciumn every morning along with Flukers vitamin supplement. No d3 as I do it every morning. Are you giving the vitamin supplement daily? If so, that is way too much. Multivitamin should only be two feedings per month. You aren’t giving any Vit D3 which is essential and without it, their body can’t use the calcium. Calcium with D3 should also be two feedings per month. Most set up a schedule of rotating D3 and multivitamin weekly.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • I must every morning until everything is soaked. I have a friend that dies misting 2 times a day will I'm at work. I then mist before they go to bed. I see them drink. I have a reptile misting system but it can't be relied in so that is why I use a misting bottle.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • Medium brown in color, huge, firm but soft also has a yellow to white urine sack. No testing for parasites. It’s always a good idea to have a fecal done to check for parasites.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
  • That's about all I know. I bought him from Flchams.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? 24 x24x 36 inches glass. I tried the reptibreeze but no matter what I did I could not get humidity up. So I switch to all glass. The top is screen and the doors are open slightly all day. A picture would be really helpful.
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • I use the T8 tropical bar light. I have a basking light that is 100 watt and a 100 heat emmitter. The ammitterr is never turned off. Lights are in from 8:30 to 8:30. I’m too new to chams to know how to properly use a T8. Most use T5 with a 5% uvb bulb. Unless it gets below 50* at night, turn the heat emitter off at night. A drop in temps at night is actually good.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Floir is at 72 degrees middle of cage is about 76 and the top is at 80. The basking temp is a bit too cool. It need to be around 90* for an adult male. How are you measuring your temps? How far is the basking branch from the bulb?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • I use a reptafogger for 12 out of 24 hours. There is also a bowl in the bottom to help with humidity. I have a digital gage for temp and humidity. Foggers should only be used at night in conjunction with the temp drop. Daytime humidity should be between 30-50% and can get to 80-100% when cool at night. Heat + excess humidity = risk for respiratory infection. If you have problems with humidity, wrapping 2-3 sides with a shower curtain and adding live plants can make a big difference.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • I have plants for them but no live plants, most are plastic or silk. Veiled like to nibble their plants, so real ones are best. They have been known to eat a fake leaf and get impacted. Pothos is my favorite to use. List of safe plants here. https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • The cage us in the dining room so I guess it is high traffic. By the patio door. From the floor the tip if the cage is 5 ft 7 inches Heavy traffic can be stressful, so you may want to find a quieter area to put him. You also may want to raise his enclosure a bit. They feel safest when they are able to look down upon their world.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
  • Western Washington
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about

He has been in his latest shed for 4 days now. He has shed in one day 3 times before. Now I notice that his appitate is slowed. His back legs move but it is like he doesn't know what to do with them. He is wobbly, and drags his back end over his vines. I just not sure if this is something I need to take him to the vet for. I am new at this so just looking for advice. Really need some good pics of him. It sounds like it could be mbd. If he were just trying to scratch his legs or belly to help remove the shed, he wouldn’t be wobbly. Mbd is serious and really needs veterinary treatment ASAP. While adult chams do tend to decrease their food intake on their own and are slower to shed, that combined with the leg issue says there’s more at play here. If you need help finding a good cham vet, say the word and we’ll try to help. Is that Washington state or DC?

Thanks
Pat
 
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