please,I need answers
- Thread starter mohamed
- Start date
Mohamed said..."just phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder is enough for in and out side vitamin ?"...please read my previous post again where I explained the way I use the powders to dust the insects. (I didn't say this but its implied....if your chameleon gets direct sunlight (that doesn't pass through glass or plastic) it won't likely need any extra D3 from supplements.)
You asked..."How many insect should I put in a day ? how many times in a day ?"...if its a young veiled, you can feed it as much as it will eat in a couple of minutes once a day. Some people feed them twice a day...but I don't like them to grow too fast. You can feed them like this until they are 3 or 4 months old and then feed them every second day. The crickets should be of an appropriate size for the chameleon (a size that fits comfortably into the mouth....as the chameleon grows, the size of the insects fed to it should be bigger too.)
You said..."should I dust the insect of the two vitamins every time I put them for the chameleon ?"...again, read what I posted previously.
You said..."how many times should I spray the leaves with water in a day ?" for a hatchling, I do it several times. Make sure that the spray is fairly fine. When they are 3 or 4 months of age, I also start to use a dripper. The drips are usually too big for young ones and can be aspirated so that's why I don't use drippers for young ones.
You asked..."How many insect should I put in a day ? how many times in a day ?"...if its a young veiled, you can feed it as much as it will eat in a couple of minutes once a day. Some people feed them twice a day...but I don't like them to grow too fast. You can feed them like this until they are 3 or 4 months old and then feed them every second day. The crickets should be of an appropriate size for the chameleon (a size that fits comfortably into the mouth....as the chameleon grows, the size of the insects fed to it should be bigger too.)
You said..."should I dust the insect of the two vitamins every time I put them for the chameleon ?"...again, read what I posted previously.
You said..."how many times should I spray the leaves with water in a day ?" for a hatchling, I do it several times. Make sure that the spray is fairly fine. When they are 3 or 4 months of age, I also start to use a dripper. The drips are usually too big for young ones and can be aspirated so that's why I don't use drippers for young ones.
Hello
I read what you told me to read but in another subject in the forum you said to guy : I only dust twice a month with a calcium D3 powder. I dust with a vitamin powder twice a month and at almost every feeding I dust with a phos.-free calcium powder.
ok for that but you told me that I must dust the insect with phos.-free calcium powder twice in month and you told him almost every feeding so what's the best ?
And also I have to give my cham ( A vitamin)!!!! because I can't get it, so no problem if I didn't bring it , right or no, just
phos.-free calcium and D3 powder enough for the cham ?
should I use the dripper even if it reached 5 month old ?? because I'm thinking that I can every day spray the plant with water so no need to the dripper, I can bring it but it's the same thing,because if I use the dripper I won't use the sprayer and if I use the sprayer I won't use the dripper.
should I leave the UVB light 24 hour?
I read what you told me to read but in another subject in the forum you said to guy : I only dust twice a month with a calcium D3 powder. I dust with a vitamin powder twice a month and at almost every feeding I dust with a phos.-free calcium powder.
ok for that but you told me that I must dust the insect with phos.-free calcium powder twice in month and you told him almost every feeding so what's the best ?
And also I have to give my cham ( A vitamin)!!!! because I can't get it, so no problem if I didn't bring it , right or no, just
phos.-free calcium and D3 powder enough for the cham ?
should I use the dripper even if it reached 5 month old ?? because I'm thinking that I can every day spray the plant with water so no need to the dripper, I can bring it but it's the same thing,because if I use the dripper I won't use the sprayer and if I use the sprayer I won't use the dripper.
should I leave the UVB light 24 hour?
dodolah
Retired Moderator
12 hours of UVB on and 12 hours UVB off.
After all, in the wild, you don't see sunlight shining for 24 hours do you?
best to combine spraying and dripper. some chameleons prefer dripper and some drinks when you mist them. also they are quite moody..
so to be safe, provide both venues.
use the dripper 4 the rest of your chameleon's life
Vibrant Chameleons
Avid Member
Leave the uvb light on 10-12 hours through the day, no more, no less. Dust your feeders with calcium everyday and Dust with D3 no more then twice a month. If you are there to mist the cage a few times a day, there is no need for the dripper. Mist 3-5 times a day and your cham will be good to go.
You said..."I read what you told me to read but in another subject in the forum you said to guy : I only dust twice a month with a calcium D3 powder. I dust with a vitamin powder twice a month and at almost every feeding I dust with a phos.-free calcium powder"....this IS what I do...in my message to you I said...."You need to feed the insects a nutritious diet before you feed them to the chameleons and you need to dust them with a phosphorous-free calcium powder just before giving them to the chameleons too. Most insects that we use as feeders have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous" and then later on I talked about dusting with calcium/D3 twice a month. Sorry if it wasn't clear!
You said..."you told me that I must dust the insect with phos.-free calcium powder twice in month and you told him almost every feeding so what's the best ?"...I said..."If your chameleons will only be getting UVB light from artificial means, then you may have to dust the insects a couple of times a month with a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder too. D3 from supplements can also build up in the system, so don't overdo it."
So...I only dust twice a month with a phosphorous-free calcium D3 powder. I dust with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A twice a month. Also, at almost every feeding I dust with a phos.-free calcium powder. (I say "almost every feeding" because I skip the ones that I use the vitamin powder at and the ones I use the cal/D3 powder at.)
You said..."I have to give my cham ( A vitamin)!!!! because I can't get it"...do you mean you can't get a vitamin without preformed vitamin A? What brand can you get and what does it say on the label about the source of vitamin A?
You said..."should I use the dripper even if it reached 5 month old ?? because I'm thinking that I can every day spray the plant with water so no need to the dripper, I can bring it but it's the same thing,because if I use the dripper I won't use the sprayer and if I use the sprayer I won't use the dripper"....once my chameleons are about 5 months old, I use the sprayer to mist the cage at least once a day and I also use a dripper. Its important to keep them well watered.
You said..."should I leave the UVB light 24 hour?"...no only for 12 to 14 hours a day. All the lights should be off for the other 10 to 12 hours. In the wild, it gets dark at night....so it should also be dark when the animal is in captivity.
Hope this helps! Feel free to ask any other questions you have too!
You said..."you told me that I must dust the insect with phos.-free calcium powder twice in month and you told him almost every feeding so what's the best ?"...I said..."If your chameleons will only be getting UVB light from artificial means, then you may have to dust the insects a couple of times a month with a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder too. D3 from supplements can also build up in the system, so don't overdo it."
So...I only dust twice a month with a phosphorous-free calcium D3 powder. I dust with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A twice a month. Also, at almost every feeding I dust with a phos.-free calcium powder. (I say "almost every feeding" because I skip the ones that I use the vitamin powder at and the ones I use the cal/D3 powder at.)
You said..."I have to give my cham ( A vitamin)!!!! because I can't get it"...do you mean you can't get a vitamin without preformed vitamin A? What brand can you get and what does it say on the label about the source of vitamin A?
You said..."should I use the dripper even if it reached 5 month old ?? because I'm thinking that I can every day spray the plant with water so no need to the dripper, I can bring it but it's the same thing,because if I use the dripper I won't use the sprayer and if I use the sprayer I won't use the dripper"....once my chameleons are about 5 months old, I use the sprayer to mist the cage at least once a day and I also use a dripper. Its important to keep them well watered.
You said..."should I leave the UVB light 24 hour?"...no only for 12 to 14 hours a day. All the lights should be off for the other 10 to 12 hours. In the wild, it gets dark at night....so it should also be dark when the animal is in captivity.
Hope this helps! Feel free to ask any other questions you have too!
Cameochams
New Member
Chameleons should always be fed with live insects.
Never pair chameleons in the same cage.
You should buy a spray bottle and mist them.
You can have either live or fake plants, ficus plants are great.
Depending on the age of your chameleon you should determine the size of the cage.
The lighting should be anything from 75W to 150w halogen.
Never pair chameleons in the same cage.
You should buy a spray bottle and mist them.
You can have either live or fake plants, ficus plants are great.
Depending on the age of your chameleon you should determine the size of the cage.
The lighting should be anything from 75W to 150w halogen.
I just want to know please can you put for me the picture of the 3 vitamin just the 3 because there is no in kuwait.
And please don't put for me a site which sell it (vitamin).
Because it will be in the site maybe 10 vitamins or many kinds of vitamins ,and I don't know which 3 from all vitamins I will buy, and you told me the 3 vitamins (phos.free calcium,d3 powder and A calcium) so please put for me the picture of this vitamins and after that I will buy it from the internet.
And then I will go on like this : phos.free calcium twice a month ,d3 powder twice a month and A calcium twice a month right or wrong ? I know that I tired you from this story.
Can I use the spindrift instead of the dripper?
of course you know the spindrift,they usually put it in the street to cool the people when the weather is hot or in the garden.
How many uvb light should I put outside the cage?
should I use a heater or the uvb will heat the weather?
and I want to know ,every pictures of cham cage I have seen in the internet ,I saw up the cage 2 uvb light one white light and the other is gold or yellow light why?
can I choose the uvb model light?
because there is long light and circle light (uvb),what is the difference ??
thank you very much guys
And please don't put for me a site which sell it (vitamin).
Because it will be in the site maybe 10 vitamins or many kinds of vitamins ,and I don't know which 3 from all vitamins I will buy, and you told me the 3 vitamins (phos.free calcium,d3 powder and A calcium) so please put for me the picture of this vitamins and after that I will buy it from the internet.
And then I will go on like this : phos.free calcium twice a month ,d3 powder twice a month and A calcium twice a month right or wrong ? I know that I tired you from this story.
Can I use the spindrift instead of the dripper?
of course you know the spindrift,they usually put it in the street to cool the people when the weather is hot or in the garden.
How many uvb light should I put outside the cage?
should I use a heater or the uvb will heat the weather?
and I want to know ,every pictures of cham cage I have seen in the internet ,I saw up the cage 2 uvb light one white light and the other is gold or yellow light why?
can I choose the uvb model light?
because there is long light and circle light (uvb),what is the difference ??
thank you very much guys
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Mohamed said...."I just want to know please can you put for me the picture of the 3 vitamin just the 3 because there is no in kuwait"...there are others that you could use....but here are the three most often recommended (they are from commercial sites, but I did it in such a way that only the ones you need are showing)...
http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=31
http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=119
http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=29
You said..."And then I will go on like this : phos.free calcium twice a month ,d3 powder twice a month and A calcium twice a month right or wrong ?"...phos. free calcium with D3 twice a month, vitamins twice a month and at the other feedings, phos.-free calcium. Dust lightly....you don't want to overdo it! If you have a baby chameleon you will want to feed it every day....if you have an adult you can feed it every two or three days. No matter what its age, you want the size of the insects to be appropriate for the size of the chameleon....so feed baby (very small, pinhead) crickets to a baby chameleon and fullgrown crickets to a fullgrown veiled adult.
You said..."Can I use the spindrift instead of the dripper?
of course you know the spindrift,they usually put it in the street to cool the people when the weather is hot or in the garden"...I have no idea what a spindrift is....sorry. A dripper is simple to make...take any plastic container and punch a very small hole in the bottom of it so that it drips about once every second or so.
You asked..."How many uvb light should I put outside the cage?"...I use one Repti-Sun 5.0 and one regular florescent bulb in a double fixture. I use an incandescent (household) light bulb in a metal hood for a basking area. (The wattage of the incandescent bulb depends on the heat it creates...I keep the basking area for babies in the low to mid 80's and for adults in the mid to high 80's or even into the low 90's at times.
You said..."should I use a heater or the uvb will heat the weather?"...the UVB tube light that I mentioned won't give off much heat. A chameleon won't likely recognize anything that provides heat without light as a place to bask....they react to the light.
You said..."I want to know ,every pictures of cham cage I have seen in the internet ,I saw up the cage 2 uvb light one white light and the other is gold or yellow light why?"...I use a double fixture (a fixture that holds two tube lights) ...one UVB and one regular florescent tube light. This gives the chameleon the UVB it needs and the regular florescent tube light gives extra light.
You said..."can I choose the uvb model light? because there is long light and circle light (uvb),what is the difference ??"...recently it has been found that the circle lights (called compacts) can cause eye problems so they are not recommended. Some of the tube lights (long lights) can cause it too...so that is why I mentioned the Repti-sun 5.0...so far it has been okay.
http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=31
http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=119
http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=29
You said..."And then I will go on like this : phos.free calcium twice a month ,d3 powder twice a month and A calcium twice a month right or wrong ?"...phos. free calcium with D3 twice a month, vitamins twice a month and at the other feedings, phos.-free calcium. Dust lightly....you don't want to overdo it! If you have a baby chameleon you will want to feed it every day....if you have an adult you can feed it every two or three days. No matter what its age, you want the size of the insects to be appropriate for the size of the chameleon....so feed baby (very small, pinhead) crickets to a baby chameleon and fullgrown crickets to a fullgrown veiled adult.
You said..."Can I use the spindrift instead of the dripper?
of course you know the spindrift,they usually put it in the street to cool the people when the weather is hot or in the garden"...I have no idea what a spindrift is....sorry. A dripper is simple to make...take any plastic container and punch a very small hole in the bottom of it so that it drips about once every second or so.
You asked..."How many uvb light should I put outside the cage?"...I use one Repti-Sun 5.0 and one regular florescent bulb in a double fixture. I use an incandescent (household) light bulb in a metal hood for a basking area. (The wattage of the incandescent bulb depends on the heat it creates...I keep the basking area for babies in the low to mid 80's and for adults in the mid to high 80's or even into the low 90's at times.
You said..."should I use a heater or the uvb will heat the weather?"...the UVB tube light that I mentioned won't give off much heat. A chameleon won't likely recognize anything that provides heat without light as a place to bask....they react to the light.
You said..."I want to know ,every pictures of cham cage I have seen in the internet ,I saw up the cage 2 uvb light one white light and the other is gold or yellow light why?"...I use a double fixture (a fixture that holds two tube lights) ...one UVB and one regular florescent tube light. This gives the chameleon the UVB it needs and the regular florescent tube light gives extra light.
You said..."can I choose the uvb model light? because there is long light and circle light (uvb),what is the difference ??"...recently it has been found that the circle lights (called compacts) can cause eye problems so they are not recommended. Some of the tube lights (long lights) can cause it too...so that is why I mentioned the Repti-sun 5.0...so far it has been okay.
JDunkz6501
New Member
Wow he really doesnt know what hes getting himself into
Hello
Every twice feeding a day I will dust the insects with just phos.- free calcium one (1) time every day and the other vitamins twice a month.
What is the basking area ??
Can you put for me a site which sell this 2 light Repti-Sun 5.0 , regular florescent bulb and Incandescent??
Note for Mr. : JDunkz6501
Nobody born and know every thing in the world, people should learn from each other.
Right or wrong??
You didn't born and know every thing ,didn't you?
Every twice feeding a day I will dust the insects with just phos.- free calcium one (1) time every day and the other vitamins twice a month.
What is the basking area ??
Can you put for me a site which sell this 2 light Repti-Sun 5.0 , regular florescent bulb and Incandescent??
Note for Mr. : JDunkz6501
Nobody born and know every thing in the world, people should learn from each other.
Right or wrong??
You didn't born and know every thing ,didn't you?
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Everend
New Member
thanks
Mohamed, Thanks for asking all these questions.
kinyonga and everyone else who answered his questions. Thanks for giving so much info.
I'm also thinking about getting one or two Chameleons. This thread has been a helpful starting place and it includes links to other sites for more info. Care for them sounds on par with caring for other lizards. The temps and humidity may differ but general topics are the same.
Mohamed, Thanks for asking all these questions.
kinyonga and everyone else who answered his questions. Thanks for giving so much info.
I'm also thinking about getting one or two Chameleons. This thread has been a helpful starting place and it includes links to other sites for more info. Care for them sounds on par with caring for other lizards. The temps and humidity may differ but general topics are the same.
TRI0N
New Member
Items of Need
Baby: Once a day with Multi-Vitiam dusted lightly. I take 2 out of whatever my Cham will eat in a day and dust them so that I'm not overdoing their vitamin intake. I Calcium D3 every 2 days same idea 2 out of its daily feeding intake get dusted. The ones I dust I put on a long leaf and feed them to her to make sure she gets those in right away then I will let loose on live feed (small crickets, flies, small worms). The leaf offers an attractive and natural way to feed them so that you know they have gotten their Vitamins before letting any other live feed out. Some say to dust everything you feed them and I'm not so sure that is a very good idea. A portion of their daily feed works well with my Cham and it makes me feel safe that I'm not overdoing her intake. (Note: Please make sure the leaf you use is safe from any natural power it may produce that can harm you cham. I use a Bamboo Leaf that I have cleaned first, then mist it with treated water and put 1 worm at a time on it and hold approx 5"-6" from her. She's hot on them when she sees her first meal each day.)
Adult: Multi-Vit every other day and D3 1-2 a week. Same as before take a portion out and dust them each day before before letting any live feed loose. I would imagine that 3-4 out of its daily intake be dusted as an adult as its size is now larger. Also as your cham is now larger and if you can get them in your area, Butterworms. Butterworms are the King of Calcium D3 that can be feed to your adult cham. Their very big so your cham needs to be a full grown adult. Again a butterworm 1-2 a week instead of D3 Powder.
Also you aked how much should I feed: Well this is something you will need to find out as a key to keep her happy in several ways.
1) It is said that a Chameleon "will not over eat". I have found this to be indeed true. My chameleon will only eat what she wants and goes off to bask in her light. So how much? You will need to offer her small amounts each day. For example: 2 Dusted worms, let loose 3-4 crickets.
2) Too many loose things in their cage can really stress them out and too much stress means a unhappy and even ill cham. Want to make sure you offer just the amount needed and if they eat what you offered add 1-2 more for them. Its a good idea to keep this strict on Crickets because they will bite your cham in her sleep which can lead to illness and infections that you should avoid.
3) Gutload your live food with an all in one type feeder food. This offers more nutrients for you pet. A crickets without is just a cricket and does not help them much other then intake. You can also put gutload in a tray with worms (never put gutload in a cage with cham) as they will eat it aswell. Ideal to take worms, 2-4 of them, out of their fridge cup and put them in a tray with gutload for 24 hours before feeding them. This will allow them to eat and become more active. Your cham will like to see its food move before you offer it to them.
I'm going to use the same site "kinyonga" refered you to to keep you at one site that offers pretty much everything you will need so you don't have to shop at a million places online to get your supplies and equipment.
Gutload: http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=1241
(Note: You may also make your own. There are several recepies on this forum with what you will need to make your own.)
Water Treatment: http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=240
While on the topic of water.. Treate all water you use inside the cage. Also you mention Spaying rather then dripping. This will be chosen by your pet. However I use a Dripper that I place over fake leaves to simulate rain fall and my Cam only drinks from that. I do however spay too when Humidity is low. Spaying will increase the inside of your cage by 10% or more in humidity and that is good. Since you are interested in a Veiled they will be in need of Humidity of 30% to 60% and a spray bottle with treated water helps you maintain that when needed. Live plants also increase humidity.
Live Food: This will be indeed a trick in your area for getting them shipped to you "Live".. Saudi Arabia is your best bet in getting such live food items. Veiled Chameleons are from Saudi Arabia and I would imagine there is a supply store there that can meet your live food orders.
A basking area is a spot up in your cage that will have a Basking Lamp directed to. This lamp provides Heat and UVA. UVA is also an important radiation needed for your cham. It helps with their ability to digest food and should not be overlooked. The basking lamp should be 12" or more from the highest point you Cham can climb in its cage to avoid Thermal Burns. There is nothing wrong with using 2 Repti-Sun 5.0's if you need to cover that much area of a cage size that you have. However you will need to place the Repti and Basking in good locations. Basking in a corner and have it so that the basking is pointing just off the edge of your Fluorescent Fixture to make sure that your cham is also getting UVB since the fixture will not always expose your pet to its radiation light and the Fluorescent lights pretty much only penetrate 12" into the cage and their safe to just place directly on top of the enclosure while basking lamps are not safe to place on top unless you have 12" from top screen to highest climbing point. Fluorescent Fixture right down the middle of your cage is a good spot and have the basking so that the bulb itself is exposed compltely off the edge of the fixture will allow your cham to absorbe both UVA and UVB radiation that it will require. This simulates the sun much better then having your lighting too far apart were its only getting one of the other.
Lighting (I use everything mentioned here.)
Basking Fixture: http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=1555
(This allows you to dim the light to adjust temp at the basking spot without the need to move the fixture all the time during seasons. You can use others just make sure they except the watts the bulb are useing.)
Basking Lamp: http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=166
Fluorescent Fixture: http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=1655
Fluorescent: http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=465
You should get 2 Digital Thermometer and Humidity Gauges. 1 for the top area where the basking lamp is directed and 1 for the lower part of your cage to keep track and monitor temps and humidity to keep your pet happy. Digital is a must for accurate readings and the one I mentioned below is what I use and it has a High/Low report that I use to see just how hot and humid it got that day. I check mine daily and reset the monitor to keep track of her enviorment.
Gauges: http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=655
Indeed you do. There is nothing wrong with asking questions. I asked a ton of them here before I even got my Cham. I asked about all aspects of the enclosure and bought everything then posted about it with questions. Built the enclosure and made sure the drippers were all setup and dripping on places to collect water on leafs, timers for lights all working and temps keeping the enclosure at the right enviorment a week before I brought Victoria home. She was more then pleased with her new kingdom.
Keep up with any questions and ignore those that give you static. Learn everything you can before you bring your pets home so that you won't need to second guess them. Books like everyone tells you are missleading and honestly this is the best place to ask and learn since everyone here knows by experience and has a chameleon.
Best of luck and keep us posted with some pics of your chameleons when they arrive.
Baby: Once a day with Multi-Vitiam dusted lightly. I take 2 out of whatever my Cham will eat in a day and dust them so that I'm not overdoing their vitamin intake. I Calcium D3 every 2 days same idea 2 out of its daily feeding intake get dusted. The ones I dust I put on a long leaf and feed them to her to make sure she gets those in right away then I will let loose on live feed (small crickets, flies, small worms). The leaf offers an attractive and natural way to feed them so that you know they have gotten their Vitamins before letting any other live feed out. Some say to dust everything you feed them and I'm not so sure that is a very good idea. A portion of their daily feed works well with my Cham and it makes me feel safe that I'm not overdoing her intake. (Note: Please make sure the leaf you use is safe from any natural power it may produce that can harm you cham. I use a Bamboo Leaf that I have cleaned first, then mist it with treated water and put 1 worm at a time on it and hold approx 5"-6" from her. She's hot on them when she sees her first meal each day.)
Adult: Multi-Vit every other day and D3 1-2 a week. Same as before take a portion out and dust them each day before before letting any live feed loose. I would imagine that 3-4 out of its daily intake be dusted as an adult as its size is now larger. Also as your cham is now larger and if you can get them in your area, Butterworms. Butterworms are the King of Calcium D3 that can be feed to your adult cham. Their very big so your cham needs to be a full grown adult. Again a butterworm 1-2 a week instead of D3 Powder.
Also you aked how much should I feed: Well this is something you will need to find out as a key to keep her happy in several ways.
1) It is said that a Chameleon "will not over eat". I have found this to be indeed true. My chameleon will only eat what she wants and goes off to bask in her light. So how much? You will need to offer her small amounts each day. For example: 2 Dusted worms, let loose 3-4 crickets.
2) Too many loose things in their cage can really stress them out and too much stress means a unhappy and even ill cham. Want to make sure you offer just the amount needed and if they eat what you offered add 1-2 more for them. Its a good idea to keep this strict on Crickets because they will bite your cham in her sleep which can lead to illness and infections that you should avoid.
3) Gutload your live food with an all in one type feeder food. This offers more nutrients for you pet. A crickets without is just a cricket and does not help them much other then intake. You can also put gutload in a tray with worms (never put gutload in a cage with cham) as they will eat it aswell. Ideal to take worms, 2-4 of them, out of their fridge cup and put them in a tray with gutload for 24 hours before feeding them. This will allow them to eat and become more active. Your cham will like to see its food move before you offer it to them.
I'm going to use the same site "kinyonga" refered you to to keep you at one site that offers pretty much everything you will need so you don't have to shop at a million places online to get your supplies and equipment.
Gutload: http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=1241
(Note: You may also make your own. There are several recepies on this forum with what you will need to make your own.)
Water Treatment: http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=240
While on the topic of water.. Treate all water you use inside the cage. Also you mention Spaying rather then dripping. This will be chosen by your pet. However I use a Dripper that I place over fake leaves to simulate rain fall and my Cam only drinks from that. I do however spay too when Humidity is low. Spaying will increase the inside of your cage by 10% or more in humidity and that is good. Since you are interested in a Veiled they will be in need of Humidity of 30% to 60% and a spray bottle with treated water helps you maintain that when needed. Live plants also increase humidity.
Live Food: This will be indeed a trick in your area for getting them shipped to you "Live".. Saudi Arabia is your best bet in getting such live food items. Veiled Chameleons are from Saudi Arabia and I would imagine there is a supply store there that can meet your live food orders.
A basking area is a spot up in your cage that will have a Basking Lamp directed to. This lamp provides Heat and UVA. UVA is also an important radiation needed for your cham. It helps with their ability to digest food and should not be overlooked. The basking lamp should be 12" or more from the highest point you Cham can climb in its cage to avoid Thermal Burns. There is nothing wrong with using 2 Repti-Sun 5.0's if you need to cover that much area of a cage size that you have. However you will need to place the Repti and Basking in good locations. Basking in a corner and have it so that the basking is pointing just off the edge of your Fluorescent Fixture to make sure that your cham is also getting UVB since the fixture will not always expose your pet to its radiation light and the Fluorescent lights pretty much only penetrate 12" into the cage and their safe to just place directly on top of the enclosure while basking lamps are not safe to place on top unless you have 12" from top screen to highest climbing point. Fluorescent Fixture right down the middle of your cage is a good spot and have the basking so that the bulb itself is exposed compltely off the edge of the fixture will allow your cham to absorbe both UVA and UVB radiation that it will require. This simulates the sun much better then having your lighting too far apart were its only getting one of the other.
Lighting (I use everything mentioned here.)
Basking Fixture: http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=1555
(This allows you to dim the light to adjust temp at the basking spot without the need to move the fixture all the time during seasons. You can use others just make sure they except the watts the bulb are useing.)
Basking Lamp: http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=166
Fluorescent Fixture: http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=1655
Fluorescent: http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=465
You should get 2 Digital Thermometer and Humidity Gauges. 1 for the top area where the basking lamp is directed and 1 for the lower part of your cage to keep track and monitor temps and humidity to keep your pet happy. Digital is a must for accurate readings and the one I mentioned below is what I use and it has a High/Low report that I use to see just how hot and humid it got that day. I check mine daily and reset the monitor to keep track of her enviorment.
Gauges: http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=655
Indeed you do. There is nothing wrong with asking questions. I asked a ton of them here before I even got my Cham. I asked about all aspects of the enclosure and bought everything then posted about it with questions. Built the enclosure and made sure the drippers were all setup and dripping on places to collect water on leafs, timers for lights all working and temps keeping the enclosure at the right enviorment a week before I brought Victoria home. She was more then pleased with her new kingdom.
Keep up with any questions and ignore those that give you static. Learn everything you can before you bring your pets home so that you won't need to second guess them. Books like everyone tells you are missleading and honestly this is the best place to ask and learn since everyone here knows by experience and has a chameleon.
Best of luck and keep us posted with some pics of your chameleons when they arrive.
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There are three powders to dust with...
#1 Phosphorous-free calcium
#2 Vitamins with a beta carotene source of vitamin A
#3 phos.-free calcium/D3 powder
I dust twice a month with #2
I dust twice a month with #3 ...but if you are keeping your chameleon outside most of the time, you won't likely need to use this one.
I dust with #1 at the remaining feedings.
You asked..."What is the basking area ??"...Chameleons don't produce their own heat so they need the sunlight or a basking light/area to warm their bodies up so that they can digest their food. The incandescent light is what I use to make a basking area for them. I place over the screen lid to one side. (The UVB light is also placed over the screen lid of the cage and the chameleon should be able to get within 12" of it to absorb the UVB.) By placing the basking light this way, it allows that area of the cage to be quite warm and the rest of the cage that is not near the light will be cooler so that the chameleon can move around to have his body be the temperature required.
#1 Phosphorous-free calcium
#2 Vitamins with a beta carotene source of vitamin A
#3 phos.-free calcium/D3 powder
I dust twice a month with #2
I dust twice a month with #3 ...but if you are keeping your chameleon outside most of the time, you won't likely need to use this one.
I dust with #1 at the remaining feedings.
You asked..."What is the basking area ??"...Chameleons don't produce their own heat so they need the sunlight or a basking light/area to warm their bodies up so that they can digest their food. The incandescent light is what I use to make a basking area for them. I place over the screen lid to one side. (The UVB light is also placed over the screen lid of the cage and the chameleon should be able to get within 12" of it to absorb the UVB.) By placing the basking light this way, it allows that area of the cage to be quite warm and the rest of the cage that is not near the light will be cooler so that the chameleon can move around to have his body be the temperature required.
You asked..."Can you put for me a site which sell this 2 light Repti-Sun 5.0 , regular florescent bulb and Incandescent??"...I just picked any site to show you the type of bulbs I'm talking about. I have never bought from these people. You would be able to buy the incandescent and regular florescent bulbs at a store.
Incandescent...
http://www.lightbulbsdirect.com/page/001/CTGY/Incan+Standard
Florescent...
http://www.maplin.co.uk/free_uk_delivery/Fluorescent_Tubes_20608/Fluorescent_Tubes_20608.htm
UVB Repti-sun 5.0...
http://www.reptiledirect.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=39
Incandescent...
http://www.lightbulbsdirect.com/page/001/CTGY/Incan+Standard
Florescent...
http://www.maplin.co.uk/free_uk_delivery/Fluorescent_Tubes_20608/Fluorescent_Tubes_20608.htm
UVB Repti-sun 5.0...
http://www.reptiledirect.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=39
hello
thank you friend
what does they mean with this sign '' like 25''
Every cage size they write its size , but what is it ? inch or Cm?
should I close and open all the light (Incandescent,Florescent , UVB sun 5.0)
at the same time ? ( 12 hours open and 12 hours close )
thank you friend
what does they mean with this sign '' like 25''
Every cage size they write its size , but what is it ? inch or Cm?
should I close and open all the light (Incandescent,Florescent , UVB sun 5.0)
at the same time ? ( 12 hours open and 12 hours close )
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dodolah
Retired Moderator
25" means 25 inches
usually they mean inches
you should open and close ALL lights at the same time
Helloooooooooooooooo
My cage size is : 24"L , 24"W , 40"H.
How many watts should the 3 lights (Incandescent , Florescent , UVB sun 5.0) be ??
And don't forget : the watts should appropriateness with the size of the cage. because for example if I bought the Incandescent 100 watts maybe it will burn my cham and maybe it won't give any aftermath ( the intransitive light )
My cage size is : 24"L , 24"W , 40"H.
How many watts should the 3 lights (Incandescent , Florescent , UVB sun 5.0) be ??
And don't forget : the watts should appropriateness with the size of the cage. because for example if I bought the Incandescent 100 watts maybe it will burn my cham and maybe it won't give any aftermath ( the intransitive light )
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dodolah
Retired Moderator
Depending on what chameleon and how old it is, your cage might be a little too big. 24"X24"X12" is good for baby cham (2.5 - 4 months old).
Because it will be easier for him to hunt for live insect in a small enclosure.
But, you can choose to use that cage if you already bought it.. just make sure your chameleon can spot his food easily.
I use only 2 light source.
1 is reptisun 5.0 (UVB light) and the other one is a normal light bulb to produce heat.
just make sure that you have an area (preferable on the upper side of the cage) where your chameleon can bask in the light.
That spot should reach around 95 - 100 F (this is for VEILED CHAMELEON.
DIFFERENT SPECIES might NEED DIFFERENT temperature).
While the other area of the cage should be around 75-85 F
in the morning (maybe around 7 am) turned on the UVB light and the basking lamp.
In the night 7pm turn off all light so the temp should drop about 10 degree.
Make sure the temp doesn't get any lower than 65 degree F.
Humidity between 30 - 50% is acceptable
50- 60% in my opinion is the best.
got it?
