nightanole
Chameleon Enthusiast
https://www.reddit.com/r/HerpHomes/comments/d8dn96/unfiltered_halogen_uvb_level_testing_with/
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips...uble-Ended-Light-Bulb-2-Pack-416875/202799649
Im not sure if this is ingenious or not. For a bit of science, halogen bulbs need a special kind of glass, and that glass transmitts UVB really well, and at the temps halogens burn at, they produce alot of UVB. To the point "all" halogen bulbs have some sort of UVB mitigation. This can be the "bulb in the bulb" package that has the widdle halogen bulb inside of a glass bulb with a UVB glass filter on it. Or in the case of "big"bulbs, the UVB filter glass is part of the housing.
But what this person did has 2 issues to me. In my tegu setup, i have 4 35 watt halogens spread out in a 2ft long line, and that is enough to create a 110F basking zone (dont bust out the pitch forks, this is low for tegus, most try to get a 6-12" section to 135f air temps for a gradient). having a 150 watt "spot light" is going to get hot spots, so im not sure if its going to be safe for a basking zone. My second issue is the UVB. As some of you know i am a light junky, and UVI meters (solar meter 6.5) only measure natural light that animals should be exposed to. The posters readings look great from that view. But the poster does not have a UVB meter(solar meter 6.2) to measure if any nasty non terrestrial deep UVB or UVC (the stuff that caused all the eye problems a decade ago when the first version CFL reptile bulbs came out) is also coming out. Manufactures block UVB from halogens for safety reasons...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips...uble-Ended-Light-Bulb-2-Pack-416875/202799649
Im not sure if this is ingenious or not. For a bit of science, halogen bulbs need a special kind of glass, and that glass transmitts UVB really well, and at the temps halogens burn at, they produce alot of UVB. To the point "all" halogen bulbs have some sort of UVB mitigation. This can be the "bulb in the bulb" package that has the widdle halogen bulb inside of a glass bulb with a UVB glass filter on it. Or in the case of "big"bulbs, the UVB filter glass is part of the housing.
But what this person did has 2 issues to me. In my tegu setup, i have 4 35 watt halogens spread out in a 2ft long line, and that is enough to create a 110F basking zone (dont bust out the pitch forks, this is low for tegus, most try to get a 6-12" section to 135f air temps for a gradient). having a 150 watt "spot light" is going to get hot spots, so im not sure if its going to be safe for a basking zone. My second issue is the UVB. As some of you know i am a light junky, and UVI meters (solar meter 6.5) only measure natural light that animals should be exposed to. The posters readings look great from that view. But the poster does not have a UVB meter(solar meter 6.2) to measure if any nasty non terrestrial deep UVB or UVC (the stuff that caused all the eye problems a decade ago when the first version CFL reptile bulbs came out) is also coming out. Manufactures block UVB from halogens for safety reasons...