Reptivite and calcium. How much?

[shane pattimore]

My panther is 6 months and i am just wondering what i should be giving him for vitamins and calcium?

I give him Calcium with D3 once a week on sunday. I lightly dust about 8 crickets. Then on Tuesday I lightly dust 8 crickets with Reptivite (with D3). Should i be using more? Less? also should i be adding calcium without D3 at all?
As a side note i Feed my crickets repashy bug burger and carrots? Anything else i should be doing? I plan on Buying 1000 crickets today.

 

[bradley]

here is a good schedule
every feed of a weekday pure calcium
one day of the weekends alternate between calcium with D3 and a multivitamin like reptivite without D3 I would be worried your cham is getting a bit much D£ and not so much calcium

 

[seanUTD]

I did another post on this recently so I hope I can help You need a PURE calcium, with no phosphorus or D3 at every feeding, and a multivitamin twice a month... You do need a Calcium WITH D3 but how much depends on your personal situation, brand, and other factors... If he gets a lot of natural sun, you may not even need to use Cal W/D3 at all as I don't for one of my chams... If he doesn't get any to little real sun, I would say twice a month with a MEDIUM D3 content... By content I mean the IU/lb rating that can be found on the bottle... The brand I use is flukers with D3 and it has a 100,000 IU/lb rating which is on the lower side where some go up to 400,000 IU/lb.... This is another factor that has to be looked at.... So say you have a cham that gets little to no natural sun, and sits under his UVB a lot, a lower rated cal w/D3 twice a month will be perfect, for a cham that gets a fair amount of natural sun and sits under the UVB less than average, a lower rating... Lots of both, little to no D3 supplement.... Little sun, little basking under the UVB, stronger rating twice a month.... More or less we as keepers use the D3 supplementation to err on the safe side but if it isn't needed then to simply put it it isn't needed... Hope this helps

EDIT: Here is a link to an article I found here in the forums that offers some more information(http://www.reptileuvinfo.com/docs/chameleons-regulate-endogenous-vitamin-D3.pdf)

 

[kinyonga]

I've been keeping/breeding/raising/hatching chameleons (and a lot of other reptiles too) for over 20 years...and this is what I do regarding supplementing and gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.

Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium). Not sure how to tell you to dust WC insects if that is what you will be doing.

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.

 

[sandrachameleon]

ditto what Kinyonga said.
Plus, here are a couple blog entries that should help you decide what is best for your situation (there is no single One size fits all" schedule)
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/65-supplements.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/174-whats-supplements-brand.html

Information on gutloading:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition-gutloading.html

Also, you only mention crickets. Hopefully you are also offering other prey choices. IMHO no single insect should make up more than 20% of your chameleons diet.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/74-feeders.html

 

[shane pattimore]

I've been keeping/breeding/raising/hatching chameleons (and a lot of other reptiles too) for over 20 years...and this is what I do regarding supplementing and gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.

Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium). Not sure how to tell you to dust WC insects if that is what you will be doing.

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.

Thanks, will be doing this from now on. I am using zoo meds Reptivite with D3. Should i scrap this and choose another vitamin powder?

 

[kinyonga]

You can still use Reptivite once in a while to ensure that your chameleon gets some prEformed vitamin A without overdoing it. It seems that panthers are more prone to low vitamin A issues.

 

[allencg101]

like kinyonga said i had to edit this after reading his statement

 

[shane pattimore]

thanks guys

 

[pantherlover]

I hate to disagree with Kinyonga and Sandrachameleon as they have both taught me so much, but I am a firm believer of offering a multivitamin like reptivite which contains pre formed vitamin a specifically to Panthers. I think that some feeders can make the conversion from beta carotine to vitamin a,(possbly roaches or mantids) but I dont think crickets can.
With that being said, I wouldnt use reptivite without d3. I feel reptivite with d3 offers a good balance of d3 and vitamin a, but without the d3, Id be more weary of the vitamin a.
Also if you choose to use reptivite, It is meant to be a daily or weekly dose where as rep cal calcium with d3, for example, is much stronger and is meant to be used monthly.If you only use reptivite once a month, it surely wont be enough d3...
My schedule as follows...

day 1- reptivite with d3
day 2- plain calcium
day 3- reptivite with d3
day 4- plain calcium
day 5- reptivite with d3
day 6- plain calcium
day 7- plain calcium

Keep in mind, I dust my feeders in one container then shake them off a bit in a second container to ensure that Im not dusting too heavily.
This schedule has been working phenomenally for about 2 years now for me and is following the lead of a breeder who keeps upwards of 200 specimens at a time.

JMO

 

[pantherlover]

like kinyonga said i had to edit this after reading his statement

Kinyonga is a SHE!

 

[shane pattimore]

I hate to disagree with Kinyonga and Sandrachameleon as they have both taught me so much, but I am a firm believer of offering a multivitamin like reptivite which contains pre formed vitamin a specifically to Panthers. I think that some feeders can make the conversion from beta carotine to vitamin a,(possbly roaches or mantids) but I dont think crickets can.
With that being said, I wouldnt use reptivite without d3. I feel reptivite with d3 offers a good balance of d3 and vitamin a, but without the d3, Id be more weary of the vitamin a.
Also if you choose to use reptivite, It is meant to be a daily or weekly dose where as rep cal calcium with d3, for example, is much stronger and is meant to be used monthly.If you only use reptivite once a month, it surely wont be enough d3...
My schedule as follows...

day 1- reptivite with d3
day 2- plain calcium
day 3- reptivite with d3
day 4- plain calcium
day 5- reptivite with d3
day 6- plain calcium
day 7- plain calcium

Keep in mind, I dust my feeders in one container then shake them off a bit in a second container to ensure that Im not dusting too heavily.
This schedule has been working phenomenally for about 2 years now for me and is following the lead of a breeder who keeps upwards of 200 specimens at a time.

JMO

I am new to this so Im still learning. I have heard so many mixed reviews about using calcium with D3 more then once a week. I have heard from a few people that you can over do it with d3 is this true? Like I said Im new so any advice is great. By the way
Pantherlover, sweet cham. Where abouts in Toronto are you from?

 

[jannb]

I am new to this so Im still learning. I have heard so many mixed reviews about using calcium with D3 more then once a week. I have heard from a few people that you can over do it with d3 is this true? Like I said Im new so any advice is great. By the way
Pantherlover, sweet cham. Where abouts in Toronto are you from?

I would not use D3 more that twice a month and be sure to lightly dust your feeders. I only use a very small amount of Reptivite once a month and only give each cham one dusted cricket. I would recommend using calcium without D3 at just about everyday (that you are not using something else) for a young cham and everyother feeding for an older cham.

 

[Hoj]

I would not use D3 more that twice a month and be sure to lightly dust your feeders. I only use a very small amount of Reptivite once a month and only give each cham one dusted cricket. I would recommend using calcium without D3 at just about everyday (that you are not using something else) for a young cham and everyother feeding for an older cham.

no disagreeing just curious Jann, u only use reptvite with d3 twice a month, the reason i ask is because the levels in reptivite are soo low...
i spoke to zoomed and advise it as a multi time per week formula.
ex: reptivite 22,000 iu/kg of d3 vs rep-cal 400,000iu/kg of d3

by that math a member using reptivte would need to use way more reptvite than rep-cal

again im just curious as to your thoughts on this

hoj

 

[jannb]

no disagreeing just curious Jann, u only use reptvite with d3 twice a month, the reason i ask is because the levels in reptivite are soo low...
i spoke to zoomed and advise it as a multi time per week formula.
ex: reptivite 22,000 iu/kg of d3 vs rep-cal 400,000iu/kg of d3

by that math a member using reptivte would need to use way more reptvite than rep-cal

again im just curious as to your thoughts on this

hoj

I only use Reptivite once a month on one feeder because of the A. I use Rep-Cal Calcium with D3 on a couple feeders twice a month. I use calcium without D3 once a week on the males and couple times a week on my females and I also use Dr. Alfonso's vitamin (which also has A) once or twice a month depending on the cham (old or sick ones get more). I also use Rec-Cal Herptivite once a month. My guys are out in the FL sun so much I probably don't really need much D3 at all but use it anyway.....just incase. I also use Dr. Alfonso's gutload and really don't need to supplement that much with it. I'll normally dust feeders in a large deli cup and go around to everyone and let them have a couple. All this is way to complicated for a new member so I normally tell them to "lightly" dust with 3 kinds of supplements. Plain calcium (no d3) at just about every feeding, Calcium with d3 twice a month and a multi. vit. once a month but this person had ask about the Reptivite.

 

[Hoj]

I only use Reptivite once a month on one feeder because of the A. I use Rep-Cal Calcium with D3 on a couple feeders twice a month. I use calcium without D3 once a week on the males and couple times a week on my females and I also use Dr. Alfonso's vitamin (which also has A) once or twice a month depending on the cham (old or sick ones get more). I also use Rec-Cal Herptivite once a month. My guys are out in the FL sun so much I probably don't really need much D3 at all but use it anyway.....just incase. I also use Dr. Alfonso's gutload and really don't need to supplement that much with it. I'll normally dust feeders in a large deli cup and go around to everyone and let them have a couple. All this is way to complicated for a new member so I normally tell them to "lightly" dust with 3 kinds of supplements. Plain calcium (no d3) at just about every feeding, Calcium with d3 twice a month and a multi. vit. once a month but this person had ask about the Reptivite.

thanks jann i totally see where u are coming from i just had to ask,
i agree that is a complicated supplementing schedual, i feel the same way about mine which makes it a hard queastion to anwser sometimes.
i am working on the math regarding ammounts in various supplements and thier useage but its a slow going project.

thanks again
hoj

 

[chameleongirl2]

i use it on weekdays, or 2 chrickets every day