Sambava cham not eating

Malepanther123

New Member
Hi,
I have a male sambava that recently stopped eating an lost some weight in back legs. Started after a shed week an a half ago. He will only eat loose crickets. Tried grubs an hornworms but usually still in there before lights go off. I have him in a 18x36" tall enclosure. With a 75watt tight beam light bulb at the back. An with a Arcadia 6% across next to heat. Arcadia is the thinner bulb not as thick as the reptisun I use on my other chameleon. I have a piece of wood an big potho plant for the inside. Have plastic on back an both sides hold humidity. Use a fogger on top of enclosure when lights go off for more water. Use a mistking nozzle every 2 hours mounted inside for humidity. Also started to run a humidifier in same room with winter temps an dryness inside house. I supplement with rapashy calcium once daily. Use rapashy with vitamins an d3 twice a month mid an usually beginning. I use bug burger with the crickets. But crickets don't seem to last long when I use this loader. Also had a question on zoomed reptitemp thermostat professional series. Anyone use these? Figuring on how to mount it an where an temps aim for. Thinking 86 for basking but won't help with bottom. Just liked idea of using one of these.
Also anyone that has these type of chameleons. Any pointers with improved care from above.
Just dont get why he stopped eating. Thinking maybe a bad bug or temps need be warmer. Can take a photo of him tomorrow. But doesn't like it taken so ill try when he's active. But have a photo of the thermostat. Is it normal for him to fall asleep at little lower then mid level of the enclosure. Does this about 4 hours before lights go off. Even put up pieces of printer paper help for privacy. But just over the plastic. Door an bottom screen is fully exposed. Just not sure what to do next. I only had him for a month now.
 

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Hi. What are your basking temps and what is your daytime humidity? Can you post a pic of your cham and it’s enclosure?
My basking Temps are 78 an 82. Not sure on humidity I mist twice a day an have automatic system going every 2 hours.
 

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It’s important to monitor your humidity levels with a hygrometer to ensure they are in ideal range. If too high during the day, combined with basking heat there’s risk for respiratory infection. Some symptoms of that would be gaping, thick saliva, noises while breathing and staying with his head pointed up. If he’s got any of those symptoms, he needs veterinary treatment.
My other thought would be parasites. Has he ever been tested? Often there won’t be any signs until they reach a high load. Again, vet visit with a fresh fecal to check is in order.
Not eating and sleeping so early are quite vague and early symptoms of what could be any number of things. Since chameleons can and do go downhill very fast, a vet visit is the best course of action.
 
It’s important to monitor your humidity levels with a hygrometer to ensure they are in ideal range. If too high during the day, combined with basking heat there’s risk for respiratory infection. Some symptoms of that would be gaping, thick saliva, noises while breathing and staying with his head pointed up. If he’s got any of those symptoms, he needs veterinary treatment.
My other thought would be parasites. Has he ever been tested? Often there won’t be any signs until they reach a high load. Again, vet visit with a fresh fecal to check is in order.
Not eating and sleeping so early are quite vague and early symptoms of what could be any number of things. Since chameleons can and do go downhill very fast, a vet visit is the best course of action.
Thank you, any recommendations on a hydrometer an % for during the day or when lights are on.
 
Thank you, any recommendations on a hydrometer an % for during the day or when lights are on.
Some use and like Govee products https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R586J3...olid=1YUVCG0VYI9DD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it I like and use Thermopro https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP...&qid=1641273653&sprefix=Thermp,aps,149&sr=8-5 Then there’s digital ones with probe ends that are good…different brands. Ideal daytime humidity for panthers is between 50-70%. I keep mine at 50% with basking temps around 80-82 and they do just fine.
 
Some use and like Govee products https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R586J3...olid=1YUVCG0VYI9DD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it I like and use Thermopro https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=sr_1_5?crid=19PQ34WZD4DJE&keywords=thermpro+thermometer&qid=1641273653&sprefix=Thermp,aps,149&sr=8-5 Then there’s digital ones with probe ends that are good…different brands. Ideal daytime humidity for panthers is between 50-70%. I keep mine at 50% with basking temps around 80-82 and they do just fine.
Are these products met for mounting into the enclosure. I had one similar to your second link. But somehow got water in it. An was unreadable. So 80-82 is the desired basking Temps for the heat lamp. Going look into your first link. Would like to get correct temps an humidity for him. I use a temp gun an it ranges temps from 78-86 right under the bulb. Just alot of humidity gauges I used became trash. Sent a photo of his enclosure. That current hanging plant has a white fuzz on undersides of leaves. Trying find another replace it.
 

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Also had a question on basking bulbs. What do others use maybe cheaper version of the exo terra basking bulbs. Recently replaced it think I got to close with misting. They usually run like 7.99 a bulb. But heard can use basic white bulbs. But what kind are safe cor chameleons?
 
Also had a question on basking bulbs. What do others use maybe cheaper version of the exo terra basking bulbs. Recently replaced it think I got to close with misting. They usually run like 7.99 a bulb. But heard can use basic white bulbs. But what kind are safe cor chameleons?
If you can find them, clear incandescent light bulbs can be used.
 
I would stick with clear bulbs as chameleon eyes can be very sensitive to colored ones. For gutloading, I feed my bugs a mix of fresh produce with a bit of bug burger. I try to use organic if possible/available. My bugs pretty much get the same stuff I make my beardie’s salads with - arugula, watercress, collards, radicchio, various squashes, bell pepper, carrot, sweet potato and just a little fruit like blueberries, grapes or raspberries. With crickets, they need to have their bin cleaned out often as they will die from their own stink. I order hundreds of crickets at a time so I use really big plastic bins that I’ve added lots of ventilation to both on the top and sides. The type of cricket you get and the size will also have a lot to do with their mortality. The domestic crickets usually gotten from local pet stores don’t live long. Banded crickets are hardier and live longer. The larger the cricket, the closer it is to the end of it’s lifespan. I usually order 5/8“ ones and they last about a month until my next order.
 
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