Squinty eye

[1221cham]

We have a 14 week old male veiled Chameleon. On 1/19, we noticed his right eye was squinted-like he wouldn’t open it all the way. I had read sometimes they do this to clean the eye, so I didn’t think too much about it. On 1/20, I came home from work and it was worse. He just kept the eyelid closed and he kept leaning to the right side. He also did not eat any of the crickets we put in his enclosure. Later in the evening he turned darker green and puffed up-but I think he was just aggravated because I was misting his cage more often than normal. However, I was pretty concerned-mainly because of how he was leaning, so I called the vet but they can’t get me in until next week.

Today, his eye looks a little better, and I don’t think he’s leaning anymore, but often he will squint that right eye for a minute or two then open it for a few minutes then squint it again. We are new to this, so is this just something they do at times? Should I be concerned and follow through with the vet or just know they do this from time to time? I’ve attached a picture of what his eye looks like when he squints it.

Some specifics:
14 week male veiled chameleon

Feed-feeder crickets, gut-loaded with Repashy bug burger, tossed with Repashy calcium plus LoD. Recently also introduced meal worms.

16x16x30 mesh terrarium. Using a mixture of fake vines and real pothos plant. Also several sticks and a rope bridge for him to climb. We clean the enclosure every two weeks.

Using a Flukers 75 watt basking bulb and a Reptisun 13 watt 5.0 UVB bulb.
Also confused as to how long the lights should stay on because I have read conflicting info. We had been leaving both lights on all the time, but then read we should turn them off at night. When his basking bulb isn’t on though, he puffs up and turns really dark-almost black.

Enclosure stays around 80-85 degrees at the top of the cage (temp directly under the basking bulb is probably higher) and between 60-70 at the bottom of the enclosure. Humidity is sometimes an issue as we use wood burning stove that zaps a lot of humidity from our house, but stays between 40-60% most days and sometimes has been as high as 80% if we aren’t running our stove. We mist the cage for about 1-2 minutes several times a day and did add a humidifier in the room.

He has already went through one shed cycle since we got him in December, so I don’t think this is related to him getting ready to shed.

Any info is appreciated! Thanks!

 

[Chance289]

you need to turn the lights off for 12 hours and on for a 12 hour cycle. A nightime drop in temperature is healthy as long as it’s not below 60s.

 

[Carloscruz]

I would get a vet appointment there is lot of different things that could be wrong is it only one eye that is close?

 

[1221cham]

Yeah it’s just the right eye. Yesterday he kept it closed constantly, but today it’s sporadic but definitely closed more than open.

 

[Carloscruz]

I would get a vet appointment could there be something in it.

 

[1221cham]

We wondered that too. We have an appointment for Monday afternoon. That’s the earliest any around here could get us in.

 

[Lindasjackson]

Welcome! I hope his eye is ok and nothing serious. Please let us know what the vet says.

 

[MissSkittles]

Hi and welcome! Looking over the info you gave, I do have some questions and feedback for you. Not necessarily related to the eye issue, but just general husbandry.

Some specifics:
14 week male veiled chameleon Are you sure he’s a he? Does he have tarsal spurs (little knobs sticking out from his back heels)?

Feed-feeder crickets, gut-loaded with Repashy bug burger, Great! It wouldn’t hurt to add some fresh produce in too. Adding more variety of feeders is always a good thing. Attaching feeder and gutload graphics. tossed with Repashy calcium plus LoD. The Repashy calcium plus LoD has anecdotally caused edema in some veileds. I would suggest adding a phosphorus free calcium for dusting at every feeding and use the LoD one feeding every other week. Recently also introduced meal worms. See below graphic.

16x16x30 mesh terrarium. This is a good size for a baby, but he will be growing fast and will be needing a much larger 2x2x4’ enclosure at minimum. Males especially use all of their space. Using a mixture of fake vines and real pothos plant. Since veileds nibble their plants, it’s best to use only safe washed live ones. I hang my fake ones on the outside of the enclosure to give more privacy. Also several sticks and a rope bridge for him to climb. The rope bridge can be a risk. It can trap little chameleon claws and rip them out. I also see a hammock, which has the same risk. I use primarily sticks I’ve gathered outside (avoid pine and other sappy trees) with maybe a foam vine. We clean the enclosure every two weeks. Ok. You should be spot cleaning every day or so, which will help keep things cleaner.

Using a Flukers 75 watt basking bulb and a Reptisun 13 watt 5.0 UVB bulb. Very important! Is your uvb a screw in bulb or a linear T5? The screw in bulbs aren’t able to provide adequate uvb levels any farther away than 2-3”. A linear T5HO fixture with either ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% is the standard. Then your basking area should be about 8-9” down from your lights. Also, I suggest raising your lights off the screen top. Little ones love to be like little monkeys and walk on the screen top. This presents a risk for burns.
Also confused as to how long the lights should stay on because I have read conflicting info. We had been leaving both lights on all the time, but then read we should turn them off at night. When his basking bulb isn’t on though, he puffs up and turns really dark-almost black. As has already been said, a 12 hour on/off light cycle is best. No lights or added heat at night unless temps get below 60.

Enclosure stays around 80-85 degrees at the top of the cage (temp directly under the basking bulb is probably higher) For little ones, this is a bit too hot. Basking temp should be around 80. and between 60-70 at the bottom of the enclosure. Yes! Gradients are perfect! Humidity is sometimes an issue as we use wood burning stove that zaps a lot of humidity from our house, but stays between 40-60% most days and sometimes has been as high as 80% if we aren’t running our stove. We mist the cage for about 1-2 minutes several times a day and did add a humidifier in the room. Ideal daytime humidity is between 30-50%. High humidity plus high temps can greatly increase risks for respiratory infection. Is best to let the enclosure dry out between mistings. Ideally you should mist for at least 2 minutes right before lights on and right before lights out. Mid day you can either add another 2 minute misting or add a dripper for about 20 minutes. At night, you can simulate the natural hydration of fog that occurs in the wild by using a cool mist humdifier and boosting humidity to 80-100%.

He has already went through one shed cycle since we got him in December, so I don’t think this is related to him getting ready to shed.

Any info is appreciated! Thanks!
For the most accurate and current care guidelines, do check out https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/

 

[MissSkittles]

Of course I forgot to add a couple of things.
At his age, he should be offered size-appropriate feeders, as much as he can eat within about a 15-20 minute period, twice a day. Rule of thumb for feeder size is anything larger than the space between his eyes is too big. It may help his eating to have a consistent place/way in which you give his feeders. This will prevent him from not being able to find his food. They learn quick where the food is.
Usually a responsible breeder won’t home their chameleons until they are at least 3 months old. Little ones are more sensitive to any errors in husbandry and they have been known to fail for no apparent reason.
Also, it will greatly help your vet and yourself if you print out/write down all of your husbandry and take it with you for the vet. It saves on playing 20 million questions. I wish you and your little one the very best at the vet and hope you’ll keep us posted. I’m very glad that you’re here.

 

[1221cham]

Thanks for all the info! We also read about the greens and horn worms, so we actually just bought those this weekend. He does t seem interested in the collards at all. Maybe with time. We have a bowl we put all his food in-of course the crickets crawl out but at least he knows where they are when we first feed. He does have the Spurs. I will look into the phos free calcium. It’s so hard to know what to do because everyone has a little different opinion. Are we supposed to use the calcium every time? I’ve had conflicting reports on this too. We are building a bigger enclosure for when he gets bigger. Thanks for the dimensions that are ideal. Our bulbs are the screw in type. I have read about the linear bulbs and have been looking for one without luck. I guess I could order one from Amazon. He never really goes to the bottom part of the enclosure at all, but I’m sure as he gets more curious he may. Thanks for the info on the humidity levels. This has been what’s stressed me out so much-worries that it’s not staying humid enough.

I have a list for the vet. I’m hoping it’s nothing major and he’s good as new before long. He’s been acting more like himself the last couple of days!

 

[MissSkittles]

He does t seem interested in the collards at all.

Whoops! Think you may have misunderstood me. They will nibble their plants, but all we need to feed them is live insects. It’s much better to give the collards and other fresh produce to your insect feeders.
This is the correct uvb from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Reptisun-T5-...6&sr=1-1-5e1b2986-06e6-4004-a85e-73bfa3ee44fe Best not to delay in getting that and the calcium as those are essentials for health. Here’s just one type of calcium that would work (staying with Repashy brand) https://www.amazon.com/Repashy-Supe...ies&sprefix=Repashy+super,pets,98&sr=1-1&th=1 There are several different brands. Just make sure that what you get is phosphorus free and has no vitamin D3 in it.

 

[1221cham]

Ok! I’ll try that! Thanks!

 

[1221cham]

Had our vet appointment today and he said it appears Jango may have scratched his eye on the inside and that’s why he is keeping it squinted. He gave us some antibiotic drops to put in twice a day, and actually after the doctor put the drop in the eye he actually kept it open for a while. So hopefully it’s mended up soon. The doctor said other than that he looks good and is doing well. They all fell in love with him!

Thanks for all your feedback!

 

[Lindasjackson]

He’s adorable! I’m glad he’s ok and you got him seen!