alexthechameleon
New Member
hey guys, how often should i supplement a baby veiled chameleon a week and what types of supplements and brands.and how often do i use those supplements? thanks guys you help so much planning on finally getting a cham. 
supplementation
- Thread starter alexthechameleon
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alexthechameleon
New Member
thanks so much you really helped!
alexthechameleon
New Member
and cute cham picture is that a male and how old are they
Here's some information I hope will help you with supplementing, etc.....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
sandrachameleon
Chameleon Enthusiast
hey guys, how often should i supplement a baby veiled chameleon a week and what types of supplements and brands.and how often do i use those supplements? thanks guys you help so much planning on finally getting a cham.
While a typical schedule is as mentioned by camimom, you should also consider the type of feeders being used (not all need dusting) and what you gutload with, as well as the brand/type of supplement being used.
Kinyonga provides good info.
More info for you to consider:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/65-supplements.html
alexthechameleon
New Member
i have not obtained my baby cham yet but his feeders will be mainly crickets but also mealworms,wax worms, and the occasional dubia his crickets and mealworms feed on cricket feed and veggies like kale and romain lettuce they also eat total bites
sandrachameleon
Chameleon Enthusiast
i have not obtained my baby cham yet but his feeders will be mainly crickets but also mealworms,wax worms, and the occasional dubia his crickets and mealworms feed on cricket feed and veggies like kale and romain lettuce they also eat total bites
crickets, mealworms and waxworms all require dusting
I suggest go easy on the mealworms, and consider the waxworms an infrequent treat
Dubia can be lightly dusted, but if you pay close attention to how you gutload it need not be every time.
Consider adding terrestrial isoods (no dusting needed), grasshoppers, butterworms (no extra calcium needed), blue bottle flies and/or other choices from time to time. Chameleons enjoy variety in prey
alexthechameleon
New Member
thanks
okay thanks i will try alot of varieties and yeah mealworms are just occasional but i will definetely buy some butter worms
okay thanks i will try alot of varieties and yeah mealworms are just occasional but i will definetely buy some butter worms
New Chameleon Owner
Hey, I recently got my first chameleon and have some questions on supplements....for the calcium dusting do you have to have one without D3 for EVERY feeding? OR can you just dust twice a month with a calcium with D3?? Ive gotten many different answers...Plzz help
Hey, I recently got my first chameleon and have some questions on supplements....for the calcium dusting do you have to have one without D3 for EVERY feeding? OR can you just dust twice a month with a calcium with D3?? Ive gotten many different answers...Plzz help
camimom
New Member
Yes.
i already answered this question,second posting in this thread.
calcium WITHOUT d3 for EVERY Feeding.
calcium WITH d3 twice a month.
multivitamin twice a month.
and next time, start your own thread please.
Thedrizzle117
New Member
So repashy all in one calcium plus replaces all the other supplements like d3?
You only need to buy that and dust feeders with it every day?
camimom
New Member
YUP. only one you need. replaces alll 3. used ever feeding.
sandrachameleon
Chameleon Enthusiast
that is what the Repashy product was designed for - to replace any others. Nevertheless, you should consider each feeding to determine what, if any, supplement is needed.
read this https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/65-supplements.html and you will learn everything you need to know to make good decisions for yourself, your particular situation
Thedrizzle117
New Member
Okay I just wanted to double check lol. I'm getting my first cham soon and was confused on that one.
sandrachameleon
Chameleon Enthusiast
Its easy to be confused, because there is no single simple answer. Every situation is different. For example, you would NOT use repashy or any other supplement on Terrestrial Isopods/wood sows
Thedrizzle117
New Member
Which are exactly? Lol
sandrachameleon
Chameleon Enthusiast
Also known as rollie pollies, pill bug, wood bugs, wood sow, wood louse, ....
http://crawford.tardigrade.net/bugs/BugofMonth17.html
every feeder bug bring different nutrients to the table, and how you feed the feeders also has an impact
wood sows / terrestrial isoods are naturally high in calcium and easily gutloaded, thus require no adjustment
butterworms, as another example, are also naturally high in calcium so need no calcium dusted on them, though its hard to gutload them so vitamins might be necessary if butterworms form a significant part of the diet.
Thedrizzle117
New Member
I gotcha. Well thanks for the help!
