Leilaskeeper
New Member
How do you mount that fixture? In the enclosure, on the enclosure or do you have it attached to something? .. anyone that has it, can you let me know?! Thanks 
"Under Cabnient" Flourescent Fixture?
- Thread starter PhxKarma
- Start date
bridgofaith
Avid Member
Mine just simply sits on the top of the enclosure.
summoner12
Avid Member
Leilaskeeper
New Member
Well that makes everything so much simpler lol thanks
summoner12
Avid Member
Syn
Avid Member
Correct, sorry if I wasn't clear about that.
It could be that, too. I'm not 100% sure what happened, though and have since replaced the fixture and gotten a new bulb. Speaking of, it's time to get more bulbs again... *grumbles*
summoner12
Avid Member
I think that guys test was very un scientific. What we all need to remember is that flourescent lamps have to have a ballast to control the current in the lamp. So when you place a 17w lamp into a 20w fixture you are over driving the lamp. This isn't a good thing for a couple of reasons. If you didn't have a meter and someoene said 'sure just put the lamp X" away and you'll be fine....." well if thise person puts the lamp in a fixture that overdrives the lamp and it generates more UVB energy, you have an issue. Now the same could be said about under driving the lamp and you could find yourself with an MBD problem.
It is very important that you match your lam's wattage to the fixture's wattage. This also needs to be followed with the form factor of lamp. T8 and T12 lamps have the same electrical connection. The pins are spaced the same and will fit the same fixtures. As I said before the wattage of the fixture and lamp are important and a T12 lamp fixture will have a higher wattage rating than the T8 lamp of the same length. So if you were paying attention to the wattage you would stop right there and not use a T12 fixture of a T8... but I just wanted to point out how the form factor plays a roll; T12 is a higher wattage vs. the T8, for the same length of lamp.
Another factor is the type of ballast. Electronic ballasts are becoming much more common because in the lager fixtures they are cheaper to make than a magnetic ballast. Electronics are cheaper than wods of metal wire.... This is great for us because an electronic ballast is much smarter than a hunk of wire trying to regulate current through the lamp. It also makes your lamps last longer because most electronic ballasts are 'smart' ballasts and can properly start a lamp by warming the cathode instead of spiking the voltage and causing the cathode to shed materials... warming the cathode prior to striking the lamp will extend the life of the lamp. This isn't an issue for us since we have reptiles..... but if you were starting the lamp in a cold garage, the electronic ballast will actually be able to strike the lamp in sub freezing temps.
So... are more costly fixtures better? I don't know... I have meant to try a lamp in different brand fixtures to see if the out put was different.... I have four different ballasts I could try with a 'base line' lamp.... Maybe ill give it a shot. In general I haven't seen a big difference between them using a very unscientific method of just 'checking' my basking spots.
It is very important that you match your lam's wattage to the fixture's wattage. This also needs to be followed with the form factor of lamp. T8 and T12 lamps have the same electrical connection. The pins are spaced the same and will fit the same fixtures. As I said before the wattage of the fixture and lamp are important and a T12 lamp fixture will have a higher wattage rating than the T8 lamp of the same length. So if you were paying attention to the wattage you would stop right there and not use a T12 fixture of a T8... but I just wanted to point out how the form factor plays a roll; T12 is a higher wattage vs. the T8, for the same length of lamp.
Another factor is the type of ballast. Electronic ballasts are becoming much more common because in the lager fixtures they are cheaper to make than a magnetic ballast. Electronics are cheaper than wods of metal wire.... This is great for us because an electronic ballast is much smarter than a hunk of wire trying to regulate current through the lamp. It also makes your lamps last longer because most electronic ballasts are 'smart' ballasts and can properly start a lamp by warming the cathode instead of spiking the voltage and causing the cathode to shed materials... warming the cathode prior to striking the lamp will extend the life of the lamp. This isn't an issue for us since we have reptiles..... but if you were starting the lamp in a cold garage, the electronic ballast will actually be able to strike the lamp in sub freezing temps.
So... are more costly fixtures better? I don't know... I have meant to try a lamp in different brand fixtures to see if the out put was different.... I have four different ballasts I could try with a 'base line' lamp.... Maybe ill give it a shot. In general I haven't seen a big difference between them using a very unscientific method of just 'checking' my basking spots.
fluxlizard
Avid Member
Yeah keep in mind, he was a salesman, not a scientist, and I was not there, I got it second hand. Also I was not aware esu made fixtures in addition to tubes (I haven't ever used either product) so he could very well have been selling fixtures and I was mistaken about that.
But it still has bugged my curiosity from time to time and would be nice to know if he was full of it or if I should be considering more than cost when I get fixtures...
summoner12
Avid Member
What I am willing to bed is the salesman knew a lamp in a fixture of the wrong match would cause a lamp to show a different reading....
The ESU lamps are not very good from my understanding. If you buy the hook with a ESU lamp in it, toss the lamp and replace with a Zoo Med.
I will try to remember and test a lamp in the four fixtures I have.
I have the cheaper $13 T8 Lowe's fixture. the $20 Home Depot Fixture. A fixture that was T12 that I converted with a T8 ballast that is different from the other two fixures and I have a dimmable ballast for T8s that I am using with my EcoZone. All four are electronic and dual fixture. so when I do the test I will cover up the second lamp even though it won't be a UVB lamp. I will use the same lamp for all tests and give the lamp a chance to warm and cool before each use. Sounds like fun
Ryan Jarosek
New Member
bridgofaith
Avid Member
Originally Posted by summoner12
What I am willing to bed is the salesman
Whoa
Wow Kevin! Just.... wow...
summoner12
Avid Member
Hardy har har......
Now you all owe me for taking one for the team.
Now you all owe me for taking one for the team.
