KamaKamaChameleon!
Avid Member
So my baby leopard gecko whom I estimated at 4 months is 12 grams is that underweight? I estimated so it might be a little off
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Op posted a link to a pic in #3If the tail is thicker than the body then it's healthy and not underweight. Pics would help.
Definitely looks like an underweight Petco/Petsmart Leo.
View attachment 256263
Spots was about 6months old there. Notice his juicy tail. That's where they store fat. Leo's will drop their tails only under severe distress for this very reason. Get some wax worms and dubias in it Stat.
Local reptile shop here in Pueblo, CO. He's my step son's.Adorable Leo! Where did you get him?
The only problem with trying to fatten up a Leo with waxworms is they can get hooked on them and refuse other, more healthy, food. When galaxy, my Petco girl, went on hunger strike due to ovulation, I gave her 1 waxworm per day to help fatten her up. She fattened up nicely but then it took me a month to get her to eat crickets again.
not a petsmart/petco gecko. Comes from a pet store (a local one) and takes really great care of their leopard geckos. I've heard that some leos might store some fat in different places in their body. I've also seen when their babies they have thinner tail proportions than adults. I have some waxworms in her diet but I don't use them a lot because I don't want her to get hooked on them. I will try roaches but they just creep me out.Definitely looks like an underweight Petco/Petsmart Leo.
View attachment 256263
Spots was about 6months old there. Notice his juicy tail. That's where they store fat. Leo's will drop their tails only under severe distress for this very reason. Get some wax worms and dubias in it Stat.
Okay so she looks fine to me. When they are young their tails are a bit thinner, and fill out as they get older.
For feeding, feed her small gut loaded crickets (small roaches would be even better). Give her as many as she will eat. I personally hand feed so I can count how many they eat. If you dont want to touch the crickets, use tongs ( the blunt edge ones, not the ones that come to a point) I would stay away from mealworms, they aren't very nutritious and I have personally had bad experiences with them (impaction) in my reptiles.
Your supplement schedule looks fine to me, just don't leave the reptivite in the cage, leave in the plain calcium.
What substrate do you use?
Some people see It nessecary to put light on their cage. I personally dont, but as long as your gecko doesn't seem sensitive to the light you should be fine. I dont use any lights on my leopard gecko cages. The natural light in the room seems to be enough to tell them the difference from day and night.
I use the same no issues. They come potty trained. Usually poop in the same place or area daily. I use no lights at all either. Just an undertank pad heater. He's in a 40gallon tall (what I had around). My dude is seriously addicted to dubias. I have him so well trained now that he tells me whe. He's hungry rather than me having to guess. Feeding dubias only now he eats like 10 at a time and then he's good for like a week. Granted he's over a year old now.Unfortunately she is kinda shy and won't eat until I've stepped away, working on improving that. I use eco earth which, was considering reptile carpet but I heard their claws can get stuck in the threads and things.
I’ve been using just paper towels, but after catching my guy having ‘dug’ underneath, I’m currently working on a bioactive tank for him. Hoping to have it done in the next week. Doesn’t seem as difficult as is for chameleons as no drainage required. If it works out well, will make a bioactive one for my girl.I use eco earth which, was considering reptile carpet but I heard their claws can get stuck in the threads and things.