Well, we have a problem

[dinomom]

I do know it’s not caused by crickets, as she is not fed crickets. And I’ll order some more softer bugs to eat as I am running low on hornworms.

According to Dale Tamura his large group of Meller's get major mouth problems with large dubias. I think the shell or leg can cause abrasions when chomped on. So he told me to be sure to use freshly molted or much smaller bugs.

I have 20-30 silks I could spare if you get desperate for food for her.

 

[snitz427]

In a way this is good and bad. I really want her to get better and am so worried, but also I can get her in for a checkup and see what the vet thinks about her recovery from when I first got her and last came in. I can also do a really good cleaning of her cage while she is out and look for possible hazards that I might have missed in the cage

If I may, I'd suggest moving the feeder run a little so that if she tries to climb around it / between, she isn't squeezing between anything. Is she pacing and climbing the walls like crazy, lately? If so, she might be looking for a mate or egg site. My girls get into some precarious situations during that time! Or perhaps she sees something she thinks is edible, and is trying to get a closer look. Moving it away will just ensure she doesn't squeeze / press her skin against the sides and potentially scratch herself.

Check all your zip ties / fasteners for sharp edges. I always run my finger on the ziptie edges to see if they are sharp. They are often super sharp after cutting them, so I melt them down a little (have a spray bottle in hand in case anything ignites... been there, done that!). I tend to spritz the part I melted part with water to cool it and ensure that nothing ignited.

Not sure that her issue is related to an abrasion, but good thinking and timing on doing cage maintenance while she is at the spa!

 

[Ghostbirb]

If I may, I'd suggest moving the feeder run a little so that if she tries to climb around it / between, she isn't squeezing between anything. Is she pacing and climbing the walls like crazy, lately? If so, she might be looking for a mate or egg site. My girls get into some precarious situations during that time! Or perhaps she sees something she thinks is edible, and is trying to get a closer look. Moving it away will just ensure she doesn't squeeze / press her skin against the sides and potentially scratch herself.

Check all your zip ties / fasteners for sharp edges. I always run my finger on the ziptie edges to see if they are sharp. They are often super sharp after cutting them, so I melt them down a little (have a spray bottle in hand in case anything ignites... been there, done that!). I tend to spritz the part I melted part with water to cool it and ensure that nothing ignited.

Not sure that her issue is related to an abrasion, but good thinking and timing on doing cage maintenance while she is at the spa!

She’s not receptive that’s for sure, she usually just hangs in her basking spot or pothos leaves. I’ll go through everything and check for sharp edges again.

According to Dale Tamura his large group of Meller's get major mouth problems with large dubias. I think the shell or leg can cause abrasions when chomped on. So he told me to be sure to use freshly molted or much smaller bugs.

I have 20-30 silks I could spare if you get desperate for food for her.

Thanks for the offer, but I think I’m good . The dubias might have caused it but they really are not to big

 

[Ghostbirb]

Update!!!
So the vet called, from what I understand it’s mouth rot/abscess from some sort of bacterial infection that really could have come from anything.
He also said she is a bit skinny so I’ll be give her just a few more bugs during feeding.
They will be draining the abscess and giving her antibiotics. We will get her in a few hours and learn what/how we give her meds.

 

[GrannyK]

Speedy recovery to that little lady! glad it wasn’t anything worse.

 

[Sonny13]

Update!!!
So the vet called, from what I understand it’s mouth rot/abscess from some sort of bacterial infection that really could have come from anything.
He also said she is a bit skinny so I’ll be give her just a few more bugs during feeding.
They will be draining the abscess and giving her antibiotics. We will get her in a few hours and learn what/how we give her meds.

Great news, wish her a speedy recovery and big thumbs up once again how you handled this (quick intervention is just key)

 

[snitz427]

Update!!!
So the vet called, from what I understand it’s mouth rot/abscess from some sort of bacterial infection that really could have come from anything.
He also said she is a bit skinny so I’ll be give her just a few more bugs during feeding.
They will be draining the abscess and giving her antibiotics. We will get her in a few hours and learn what/how we give her meds.

Curious if they give you any topical antibiotics for the area they lanced, or if they'll just pack it with antibiotics and give her a little stitch.

 

[Ghostbirb]

Curious if they give you any topical antibiotics for the area they lanced, or if they'll just pack it with antibiotics and give her a little stitch.

I’ll let you know what exactly she’s getting when I pick her up

 

[Ghostbirb]

Ok! Got my girl! She’s doing great, super lively as always. We got 4 Ceftazidime injectables for every 3 days that go into her arm. They drained the abscess and said that the bump should slowly go away and maybe leave a little scar/small bump for the rest of her life.

They also said to feed her everyday instead of the 3 times a week as she is underweight.
I’d like a recap on feeding times and amounts as I trust my vet (who owns reptiles and has a background in exotics) but also believe that this forum is reliable as well.

 

[Ghostbirb]

Here’s some photos
Slight blood warning

 

[MissSkittles]

So awesome that you caught it quickly and got such speedy veterinary care. Such a relief that your beautiful mittened lady will be ok.

 

[snitz427]

Here’s some photos
Slight blood warning View attachment 333209View attachment 333208View attachment 333207
View attachment 333206

I bet she feels better already! What a good girl!

 

[bbyoda]

Here’s some photos
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Wow great job getting her immediate help!!

 

[Beman]

They also said to feed her everyday instead of the 3 times a week as she is underweight.

I am not sure that I would follow this... We do reduced feedings with adult females 3 days a week of 3 feeders to reduce clutch size. Feeding everyday is going to cause her to produce a much larger clutch. From all the images you have shared she looks good physically and looks to be muscular and healthy in size.

 

[Ghostbirb]

I am not sure that I would follow this... We do reduced feedings with adult females 3 days a week of 3 feeders to reduce clutch size. Feeding everyday is going to cause her to produce a much larger clutch. From all the images you have shared she looks good physically and looks to be muscular and healthy in size.

How do u tell if your Chameleon is of good weight? Should I keep the same feeding schedule of Monday, Wednesday and Friday and just increase bug intake? Or change nothing? (Sorry for being skeptical, with a mix of this forum, my vet and my mom I’m kind of flustered on what to do)

 

[jannb]

How do u tell if your Chameleon is of good weight? Should I keep the same feeding schedule of Monday, Wednesday and Friday and just increase bug intake? Or change nothing? (Sorry for being skeptical, with a mix of this forum, my vet and my mom I’m kind of flustered on what to do)

How much does she weigh?

 

[Beman]

How do u tell if your Chameleon is of good weight? Should I keep the same feeding schedule of Monday, Wednesday and Friday and just increase bug intake? Or change nothing? (Sorry for being skeptical, with a mix of this forum, my vet and my mom I’m kind of flustered on what to do)

Did they tell you how many grams she is?

Post multiple pics of her from all angles.

Females are quite a bit more petite than a male.

 

[Sonny13]

How do u tell if your Chameleon is of good weight? Should I keep the same feeding schedule of Monday, Wednesday and Friday and just increase bug intake? Or change nothing? (Sorry for being skeptical, with a mix of this forum, my vet and my mom I’m kind of flustered on what to do)

At first, good you‘re asking for a second opinion and not blindly follow any advice. I do agree with @Beman on the fact that Nachito never looked underweighted based on pictures we’ve seen from her. In general when the casque doesn‘t look “sucked in” that‘s one sign (puffed out is overweighted), second sign the tail lines, slightly visible good weight, extremely visible (almost seeing bone structure) underweighted. Third sign the spine, same story as the tail and fourth sign the legs, they need be round of shape and no bone shape structure should be visible. If any or more of these indicators are visible, then you could feed her more or give her sometimes a treat extra during the week. Otherwise IMHO I would stick with the strictly female diet you already keeping her on, to prevent any big clutch.

Plus I’m really happy she’s doing well, this girl needs to live another 20 years (without egg laying) for the rough start she had

 

[dinomom]

Here’s some photos
Slight blood warning View attachment 333209View attachment 333208View attachment 333207
View attachment 333206

Sweet girl, thank you for sharing this entire experience.

 

[Ghostbirb]

Sorry for the late reply! Had work last night

I am not sure that I would follow this... We do reduced feedings with adult females 3 days a week of 3 feeders to reduce clutch size. Feeding everyday is going to cause her to produce a much larger clutch. From all the images you have shared she looks good physically and looks to be muscular and healthy in size.

At first, good you‘re asking for a second opinion and not blindly follow any advice. I do agree with @Beman on the fact that Nachito never looked underweighted based on pictures we’ve seen from her. In general when the casque doesn‘t look “sucked in” that‘s one sign (puffed out is overweighted), second sign the tail lines, slightly visible good weight, extremely visible (almost seeing bone structure) underweighted. Third sign the spine, same story as the tail and fourth sign the legs, they need be round of shape and no bone shape structure should be visible. If any or more of these indicators are visible, then you could feed her more or give her sometimes a treat extra during the week. Otherwise IMHO I would stick with the strictly female diet you already keeping her on, to prevent any big clutch.

Plus I’m really happy she’s doing well, this girl needs to live another 20 years (without egg laying) for the rough start she had

I want her to live an amazing long life to! I hope she never has eggs and want to do what’s best for her. Every time I see a hint of blue I just think, hey no put those colors away XD
I tried to contact the vet as well to get just abit more info from their side and they just sent me to this….https://broomfieldvet.com/lizards/
My other doubt was that they did mistake her for a he at the beginning but I’m not sure if that was a slip up or they actually though Nachito was a boy.
My mom was skeptical, because like, the vets the vet, they know what their doing. But I’m like, hey mom there also is this amazing forum with experienced people and a few vets here and there that is solely based on chameleons and I know they are not vets but they have knowledge on many individual species and how to cage for each gender. And it’s not cluttered with info on how to care for other reptiles and bunnies and stuff.