Regarding supplements...I don't know what's exactly is in your supplements so...let's go about it this way...
It's recommended that you dust the insects just before feeding them to the chameleon with a phosphorous-free calcium powder at almost all feedings to help make up for the usually poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous found in most feeder insects. It's recommended that you dust twice a month with a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder tomensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving it to produce the rest of it from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues but D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light won't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB light at will. It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A. Vitamin A from prOformed sources won't build up min the system like prEformed sources do....but this leaves it up to you to decide if/when your chameleon needs some prEformed vitamin A. It's controversial as to whether any/all chameleons can convert the prOformed sources into prEformed vitamin A or not.
Regarding feeding/gutloading insects...you want to do both well so you are providing healthy insects for your chameleon.
Indeed/gutload insects such as crickets, locusts, superworms, roaches with a wide assortment t of greens wuch as dandelion greens, make, endive, escarole, collards, etc, veggies suchas carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, etc, and a bit of fruit such as berries, apples, pears, melon. These same things can be offered to your chameleon.
Hope this helps!
It's recommended that you dust the insects just before feeding them to the chameleon with a phosphorous-free calcium powder at almost all feedings to help make up for the usually poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous found in most feeder insects. It's recommended that you dust twice a month with a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder tomensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving it to produce the rest of it from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues but D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light won't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB light at will. It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A. Vitamin A from prOformed sources won't build up min the system like prEformed sources do....but this leaves it up to you to decide if/when your chameleon needs some prEformed vitamin A. It's controversial as to whether any/all chameleons can convert the prOformed sources into prEformed vitamin A or not.
Regarding feeding/gutloading insects...you want to do both well so you are providing healthy insects for your chameleon.
Indeed/gutload insects such as crickets, locusts, superworms, roaches with a wide assortment t of greens wuch as dandelion greens, make, endive, escarole, collards, etc, veggies suchas carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, etc, and a bit of fruit such as berries, apples, pears, melon. These same things can be offered to your chameleon.
Hope this helps!
