What MBD looks like...
- Thread starter Julirs
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Julirs
New Member
Did I miss something? Last thing i read about Remy is that he was shedding and approaching 2 years being a great panther.
Yes Eszzie, after a long life for somone that had such advanced MBD Remy passed on. Organ failure is yet another result of the disease.
ShaunaLynnA
New Member
Thanks for sharing your stories and pics. I hope it to help many who may not realize anything about the disease or even that there chams may have it. I think you have beautiful chams even with the MBD. Best of luck with them!
Amanda1801
New Member
Oh no I didn't know that! my poor Colin
He also has 2 or 3 "elbows" on each leg! Sorry for your loss too
ricardo velthuizen
New Member
another sign for mbd is a jaw feeling like rubber.
and veiled chams have more troubles with mbd because they need a lot of calcium et etc in their first year of growth. they making a run to get big and it needs a lot of calcium d3 etc.
Thats the reason why more veiled have mbd instead of panthers etc.
and veiled chams have more troubles with mbd because they need a lot of calcium et etc in their first year of growth. they making a run to get big and it needs a lot of calcium d3 etc.
Thats the reason why more veiled have mbd instead of panthers etc.
Eszzie
New Member
That's right. Compared to other, slower growing species, veiled and also panthers have the biggest chance to develop MBD. Something that makes me say that these 2 species aren't always the best species to start with. Especially the cases of veiled's with MBD is incredibly high and so unnecessary if people would read before they buy...
Hello, my name is Dominic Torrance. I bought a veiled chameleon 2 months ago an it seemed fine until 4 days ago when we noticed it wasn't on its branches it was at the bottom of the cage an felt cold so i got him out the cage warmed him up he is still very alert but his back legs an front are quite weak an he cant support his body properly he sounds like he coughs as well, we can see his ribs when he breaths, he is a juvenile around 5-6 months old, he is still eating but not as he should be. We took him the vet yesterday and he diagnosed him with MBD (Metabolic bone disease) and gave us calcium gluconate which we give him through a syringe an he takes it we give him 2-3 drops an we give him water every time we give him the calcium gluconate which is 10:30 am – 1:30 pm – 4:30 pm – 7:30 pm 10:30 pm and the same again, he seems to be getting a bit better with his grip but not enough to keep him supported on branches and i was wondering will this calcium gluconate help him get back to normal?? an he is very alert drinking an eating but eating not as much an its just that he is weak on his legs but with a bit better grip but cant support him self, so i would also like to be sure if it is MBD an this cough he has i would also like to know if that is a respiratory infection?? Thanks.
forgot to mention we give him water through a syringe aswell as the calcium throiugh the syringe to but also he has eaten 3 mealworms today but droped one cricket an one mealworm but still had 3 mealworms and when he eats his tongue doesnt project fast as it should and he seems sluggish when chewing his food thats how intends to drop it, please hellp!!!
Julirs
New Member
Sounds like MBD and a possible respiratory infection. Did the vet not give you an antibiotic? Or did the vet not think he had RI? You have to be very careful not to aspirate your cham with water. I would modify his cage so he his low to the ground. Bad cases I usually put in a plastic tote lined with paper towel and branches and plants along the bottom. Now you need to look into what caused the MBD in the first place. Do you have a UVB bulb ? Are you supplementing with calcium? Additionally, mealworms are a cruddy feeder.
the vet gave us calcium gluconate for the mbd but said his bones felt soft and we said he had a bit of a cough but he said that should go and we are going to take him to a top reptile vet today an see if there is more we can do him. He is still weak on his legs and weak grip we have put him in a plastic tub in his cage so he can rest but if we put him near a branch he tries to get hold of it with his front legs but doesnt have the strength to pull him up we gave him calcium this morning and 3ml of water in a syringe, he is still very alert when we walk past or go up to see him he is trying to move but i think he is getting fustrated that he cant move.
he has the right uvb and we gave him calcium supplement 2 times a weak but i gave him to my grandad to look after for a few days and i noticed he wasnt giving him the calcium supplement and we are trying to feed him small crickets an he isnt interested in them an tried locusts an still not eaten one he has tried but fell out of his mouth.
also he hasnt been the bathroom last thursday was the last time he had a big poop an a little watery an his urine seemed fine then, is this symptoms of somethink else an what are all the symptoms of mbd and respiratory infection?? i know some but the internet isnt giving me the right info i dont think. thanks
The cough should not be from MBD...maybe a respiratory infection?
Is he pooping?
As was suggested, you need to not only bring the calcium levels back to normal, you need to make the adjustments to your husbandry that are needed to keep the levels there.
Here's some information that I hope will help...
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it.
If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. (Some UVB lights have been known to cause health issues, so the most often recommended one is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.) D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.
Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while.
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs....so its important too. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you and your parents to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200604210...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
Is he pooping?
As was suggested, you need to not only bring the calcium levels back to normal, you need to make the adjustments to your husbandry that are needed to keep the levels there.
Here's some information that I hope will help...
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it.
If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. (Some UVB lights have been known to cause health issues, so the most often recommended one is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.) D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.
Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while.
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs....so its important too. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you and your parents to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200604210...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
ricardo velthuizen
New Member
No if your supplementing, lighting, air temp and humidity are good your cham should be fine.
larrynevitt
New Member
worried about my chameleon
Hi I dont know if you can help me but i have a one year old male veiled chameleon and recently i keep finding him on the floor in his tank in the evening i have two bearded dragons who im looking after for two weeks and they are in a tank roughly across from my chameleon.could they be the reason why hes started sleeping there because he can see them? i dont understand otherwise as he seems healthy eating going the toliet etc same old he just seems unhappy when hes in his tank ive just spoken to a local vet ans he seems to think that he might have a uv or calcium deficiancy but when i check the symptons he doesnt seem weak he climbs and balances on me and his tree! and hes a lovely shade of green which goes brighter when he comes out his tank. can you help me with this?
Hi I dont know if you can help me but i have a one year old male veiled chameleon and recently i keep finding him on the floor in his tank in the evening i have two bearded dragons who im looking after for two weeks and they are in a tank roughly across from my chameleon.could they be the reason why hes started sleeping there because he can see them? i dont understand otherwise as he seems healthy eating going the toliet etc same old he just seems unhappy when hes in his tank ive just spoken to a local vet ans he seems to think that he might have a uv or calcium deficiancy but when i check the symptons he doesnt seem weak he climbs and balances on me and his tree! and hes a lovely shade of green which goes brighter when he comes out his tank. can you help me with this?
hello i dont think my panther has MBD, but i do have a question there is a pic on the threat where the chameleons eyes and bulging to the sides and my cham has bene doing that for a while now he has become irretated and sleeps all day from it I was wondering if any one knew what the might be and if its not MBD could you direct me to a forum that can help. i took him to the vet and they dont know what it is yet. hes also not eating that much and more please help
thanks
thanks
Mario Vermunt
Member
The Hershey case, can also have to do with stress. (from the other chams of the clutch)
Stress uses up calcium resources...
Also since he was the picky one of the nest, he might have had less to eat?
also the feeder insects themselves contain calcium, not only the dusting...
MDB seems to develop easier in the smaller ones of a nest to my expierience.
Stress uses up calcium resources...
Also since he was the picky one of the nest, he might have had less to eat?
also the feeder insects themselves contain calcium, not only the dusting...
MDB seems to develop easier in the smaller ones of a nest to my expierience.
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