Can you have too much UVB?

draetish

Avid Member
I was wondering if you can have too much UVB lighting? I would like to have (2) 30" hoods with 24" 5.0 bulbs for each cham cage. I just want to ensure that the whole top is covered with UVB. One cage to is 48" across and one is 36" across. Each is about 24" wide.
 
If you are planning to use ReptiSun 5.0 linear tubes no I doubt you can really overdo it if you give them a regular daylight cycle. You could also adjust the light intensity by staggering when each fixture goes on or off with timers (one comes on first in the morning, the 2nd comes on later with the basking light, basking light goes off in later afternoon along with one of the tubes, last tube goes off in early evening). Your chams should be able to get away from the intense light if they choose.
 
Your cham should have enough foliage to escape the UVB if it has had enough. Chams have a third eye or pineal gland that allows them to detect UVB , so they will seek it out or avoid it depending on their needs. Having 2 linear tubes is overkill IMO.
 
Your cham should have enough foliage to escape the UVB if it has had enough. Chams have a third eye or pineal gland that allows them to detect UVB , so they will seek it out or avoid it depending on their needs. Having 2 linear tubes is overkill IMO.

So why do some chams develope MBD if the keeper is doing the right dusting and have the right lighting?
 
Two linear tubes is over kill? I just built a pretty good sized cage that has 3 partitions in it, the size is 6 feet tall, 5 feet wide and 30" deep. The cages them selves are only about 50" tall though. I have been using 2 linear exo terra repti glo 5.0 UVB bulbs. Am I over doing it then. I have 2 male veileds and one female veiled. Soon I will post pics of all of them, but my camera died.
 
If you are planning to use ReptiSun 5.0 linear tubes no I doubt you can really overdo it if you give them a regular daylight cycle. You could also adjust the light intensity by staggering when each fixture goes on or off with timers (one comes on first in the morning, the 2nd comes on later with the basking light, basking light goes off in later afternoon along with one of the tubes, last tube goes off in early evening). Your chams should be able to get away from the intense light if they choose.

Yes on the ReptiSun 5.0 linear tubes. I just thought if they were leaving the basking area and the one light doesn't quite cover the entire surface then the cham would still be getting their UVB. Also I'm not sure how "wide" the UVB reach as we know they reach down 8-12 inches.
 
So why do some chams develope MBD if the keeper is doing the right dusting and have the right lighting?

Id say that if the dusting and feeding and lighting is correct, there wont be MBD.

Two UVB tubes is overkill unless there is a dense screen between the bulb and the cham (in which case, maybe change the screen). If you want it brighter, a second regular light tube would be fine. Like has been said, make sure there is a plant for the cham to move to when it wants out of the light.
 
Bone health doesn't just depend on D3/UVB and calcium. Preformed vitamin A and phosphorus also play parts as do appropriate temperatures, amount of fat in the chameleon's system....amount of food also plays a part.
 
define the right dusting and the right lighting, then we can pinpoint the problem.

I use the ReptiSun 5.0 linear tube lights, I dust crickets with Zoo Med Reptivite w/o D3 every other day, Reptivite w/D3 once a week. Crickets are gutloaded with mustard greens and shredded yams. I use a drip filled twice a day and mist chams twice a day. I do take the chams outside weather permitting, usually on the weekends for at least 2-3 hours. Basking temp low 80's daytime and night temps low 70's. I have a panther and melleri cham.The panther's cage is 24" wide, 36" high and 36" long. The melleri's cage is 24" wide, 38" high and 56" long. We know that the UVB rays can reach down 8-12 inches, but how wide do the rays go? That's my reason for thinking about setting up two lights. You can see pics under my profile of each cham and their enclosures.
 
the type of lightning depends on the size of cage and the type of chameleon. A chameleon that live in bushes in their natural habitat needs a different amount of UVb than a pigmy chameleon that lives on the ground between leaves.

You always have to make sure your chameleon can sit outside the UV or inside whenever he wants to. Chameleons decide for themselfs how much UV they need. Be careful with adding vitamine d3 because you can give to much D3 but never UVB. Be careful with a too strong lamp though, it can cause burns and trouble with the eyes.
 
If you buy a UVB light meter, you will be able to define how wide and deep the UVB is getting. A must to get out of the guessing game!:D

Nick
 
I may be completely wrong, but from what I've read, Chams will often decide when they want to absorb UVB just like they would when they want to bask under heat, so as long as you have a branch or something close enough for your cham to get to the Linear tubes range, it shouldn't matter how "wide" the range is, let alone setting up 2 tubes.

Its also good to remember to change the tube every 6 months regardless if it lights up or not if your worried about UVB exposure.
 
I agree with Metric, in our chameleon club we have someone who does lots of research after UVb, last saturday he gave a presentation about results he found and research he did himself with different lamps and UVb meters.

UVb is a very difficult to understand subject.

We also did research with some linear tubes which use a reflector on top (don't know how it's called here) and the ones who don't. With a reflector on top the lamps last 1 year or longer (tested on Arcadia linear tubes) and without about 6 months.
 
I use the ReptiSun 5.0 linear tube lights, I dust crickets with Zoo Med Reptivite w/o D3 every other day, Reptivite w/D3 once a week. Crickets are gutloaded with mustard greens and shredded yams. I use a drip filled twice a day and mist chams twice a day. I do take the chams outside weather permitting, usually on the weekends for at least 2-3 hours. Basking temp low 80's daytime and night temps low 70's. I have a panther and melleri cham.The panther's cage is 24" wide, 36" high and 36" long. The melleri's cage is 24" wide, 38" high and 56" long. We know that the UVB rays can reach down 8-12 inches, but how wide do the rays go? That's my reason for thinking about setting up two lights. You can see pics under my profile of each cham and their enclosures.

If I am not mistaken, Reptivite are vitamins.
You need calcium supplement as well.
My suggestion: Reptivite w/o D3, MinerAll 0 -calcium without D3, and Repcal with D3 -Calcium with D3.
Then, you are set.

I think you get way too technical over these. But, if you have the dough, may i suggest UVB solarmeter 6.2
http://www.solarmeter.com/model62.html

What you need to do is to set a horizontal branch where he can get the recommended 5-15uW/cm2 of UV-B for 12 hr/day.
Let the branch has no obstruction such as leaves, so your chameleon can bask to its heart content.

But, ALSO, provide a way to escape from the uvb in case it find itself no longer need for basking.

Here is some excerpts for you. A bit complicated but it will help you none the less.
http://chamworld.blogspot.com/2009/10/dr.html
 
What you need to do is to set a horizontal branch where he can get the recommended 5-15uW/cm2 of UV-B for 12 hr/day.
Let the branch has no obstruction such as leaves, so your chameleon can bask to its heart content.

Here is some excerpts for you. A bit complicated but it will help you none the less.
http://chamworld.blogspot.com/2009/10/dr.html

It should be more than 5-15... I would suggest something like 12~35?

Giving the cham some way of hiding is a good idea.

A 5.0 with a basking spot close... like 6" from the cham, with a reflector added will give some nice UVB levels.
 
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