Constipated, under the weather or dying?

[kiturcotte]

Also, how will I know if it’s “too late”? And what is my next step if that’s the case?

 

[Mountain Dragon]

Any help is appreciated! Sorry if the below information seems sporadic, I am brand new to the forums and very concerned, and a little out of my comfort zone on this one. This week hasn’t gone too great and this seems to be the icing on the cake unfortunately. I tried to be as thorough as possible, so hopefully this helpful

• Your Chameleon - Cairo: Veiled Chameleon, Male, ~3 months old, has been in my care for about 1 1/2 months
• Handling - 3-4 times a week
• Feeding - Medium/ large crickets (none larger than his head’s width) and about 10 a day. Around 8:30 in the morning, once a week he will get around 5 silkworms. Crickets are fed a gut loaded feed
• Supplements - Crickets are dusted once a week with Reptivite Reptile Vitamins with D3, the crickets themselves eat Fluker’s High Calcium Cricket Diet and Fluker’s Cricket Quencher (Calcium Fortified)
• Watering - heavy mist 3 times a day (8:30, 12:00, 16:00 roughly) but I will occasionally mist infront of him outside of these times and if he is thirsty I will continue misting until he is no longer interested
• Fecal Description - Hasn’t been tested under my care, droppings were consistent and healthy until now. Dropped maybe every other day, white urate and solid brown fecal matter with some clear liquid
• History - Had been healthy until about 3? days ago. Tolerated being held and would occasionally reach out to climb on my head. Now he runs away and tries to hide if I make a move directly towards him. Had a friend watch him Easter weekend and said that his appetite started to diminish, I thought it was because he was about to shed but it has now seemed to completely disappear and he hasn’t shed. Excessively drinking water, had a very difficult time passing waste this morning on April 19 (urate was white but EXTREMELY liquid and the decks mater was a lighter brown). Would close his eyes for a couple of seconds and then open them. Retained the same energy level and color, until I went to mist him around 12 today. Despite not spraying him he went to the mesh screen and stayed there for a couple of seconds. He then proceeded to start moving his head back and forth with his mouth open, and tried to regurgitate something in his stomach? I saw a mass ( sort of tanish colored? ) come out of his throat but he then swallowed it back down. He then turned extremely dark with light spots, and closed his eyes for two minutes… lowkey traumatized me and I was crying, but after two minutes he returned to normal and acted as if nothing happened. Four hours later he is a normal resting color, still is trying to drink as much water as he can, but no interest in any food source. He is basking but there appear to be tremors all over his body, specifically his hands and lower belly. He is occasionally closing his eyes for a couple of seconds, but then will spend periods of time just looking around and basking. His color is still a neautral green, and he has stayed at the top of the cage and hasn’t gone lower. He will occasionally get spotty like he is about to hunt, and he will look around, but when introduced to food he is not interested in eating.

• Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screen, 16 x 16 x 30
• Lighting - I have two lamps… Fluker’s Reptaclamp with a 50W UVA and one with a 50W UVB full spectrum. Lights on at 8:30 and lights off around 7:30
• Temperature - Thermometer broke so I am ordering a new one, but I would think basking temp was around 85° with bottom being low 70s. Lowest temperature is 69° at night
• Humidity - Waiting on it to be delivered so I honestly, and regrettably as I know it is poor husbandry, am not sure but I believe it is humid enough
• Plants - No live plants, just silk in the enclosure, except a head of lettuce that is replaced every 4 days (it has a water container so it stays fresh, he usually loves to chomp on it)
• Placement - on a desk to the left of an air vent but out of the direct airflow’s course. The desk is approximately 3.5 ft tall
• Location - Athens, Georgia. I am a first year college student

• Current Problem - Same as listed in the history- I am worried he is either constipated, sick, has a parasite, or is just straight up dying. I have had other reptiles before (bearded dragons, geckos, an iguana) but this is my first chameleon. I am in college, and all of the exotic vets in my area charge a ~$300 emergency vet fee, with the closest appointment I could get being next Monday (I write this on a Tuesday)… if it comes to it I will bring him to the vet because I am so attached to him, and it is my duty as his owner to provide him with the best care. However, I am not made of money. Kind of at a loss for direction, could really use some support and guidance from peers who are much more experienced.

Attached is how he looked after the “throw up” incident, his cage, and how he looks at approximately 17:30

He looks like a she

 

[kinyonga]

Washed play sand is the best substrate for the lay bin IMHO.

Also I added to my last post.

It's the dark color and pattern I was wondering about. She's only done the dark color and pattern once then?
If you're lucky it won't be too late then.

 

[kiturcotte]

This is the first time in my care she has ever shown that pattern or color. I always read that that color and pattern meant immediate death, never anything about being gravid… guess you really can’t alway trust the internet!

 

[kinyonga]

Also, how will I know if it’s “too late”? And what is my next step if that’s the case?

Signs of eggbinding...sleeping during the day....sitting low in the cage...lethargic, etc.

 

[MissSkittles]

Part II
I’m going to be suggesting several changes. Most you’ll want to wait to make until after she’s laid her eggs.

• Cage Type - Screen, 16 x 16 x 30 She will be needing a minimum of a 2x2x4’ enclosure.
• Lighting - I have two lamps… Fluker’s Reptaclamp with a 50W UVA and one with a 50W UVB full spectrum. Lights on at 8:30 and lights off around 7:30 You have the incorrect uvb. The standard is a linear T5HO fixture with either ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6%. This provides the ideal uvb level at around 8-9” below it (which is the distance you’ll want basking spot to be). This is the biggest change that can not wait. Really, it is the only one that can’t wait.
• Temperature - Thermometer broke so I am ordering a new one, but I would think basking temp was around 85° with bottom being low 70s. Lowest temperature is 69° at night You’ll want to decrease your basking temp to 80. Night temp drop is great!
• Humidity - Waiting on it to be delivered so I honestly, and regrettably as I know it is poor husbandry, am not sure but I believe it is humid enough Ideal range is between 30-50%, which is around the same level that we are comfortable at. At night, you have a decent enough temp drop that you could use a cool mist fogger to boost humidity to simulate natural hydration of fog in the wild.
• Plants - No live plants, just silk in the enclosure, except a head of lettuce that is replaced every 4 days (it has a water container so it stays fresh, he usually loves to chomp on it) Girls love LOVE to eat their plants. It only takes one nibble and your girl could get impacted, which is very serious. You’ll need to replace all of the artificial with safe clean live ones. Plant list is above. Pothos is amazing for chams. I use my artificial plants on the outside of my enclosures for extra privacy.
• Placement - on a desk to the left of an air vent but out of the direct airflow’s course. The desk is approximately 3.5 ft tall Ok…sounds good. Height=safety for chams and they prefer to be above us.
• Location - Athens, Georgia. I am a first year college student

• Current Problem - Same as listed in the history- I am worried he is either constipated, sick, has a parasite, or is just straight up dying. I have had other reptiles before (bearded dragons, geckos, an iguana) but this is my first chameleon. I am in college, and all of the exotic vets in my area charge a ~$300 emergency vet fee, with the closest appointment I could get being next Monday (I write this on a Tuesday)… if it comes to it I will bring him to the vet because I am so attached to him, and it is my duty as his owner to provide him with the best care. However, I am not made of money. Kind of at a loss for direction, could really use some support and guidance from peers who are much more experienced. Making the changes I’ve suggested will correct your general husbandry and prevent future problems. I’m not so sure it will ‘fix’ your current issue, which is why I defer to @kinyonga who has a wealth of experience and knowledge.
  With our girls, our husbandry has to be spot on because of the egg production/laying. Once you have passed this current hurdle and after she has laid her first clutch of eggs, you’ll want to reduce her feedings to 3-4 feeders, either every other day or preferably 3 days a week. This will help reduce her egg production, laying and will prolong her life.

 

[kiturcotte]

Part II
I’m going to be suggesting several changes. Most you’ll want to wait to make until after she’s laid her eggs.

• Cage Type - Screen, 16 x 16 x 30 She will be needing a minimum of a 2x2x4’ enclosure.
• Lighting - I have two lamps… Fluker’s Reptaclamp with a 50W UVA and one with a 50W UVB full spectrum. Lights on at 8:30 and lights off around 7:30 You have the incorrect uvb. The standard is a linear T5HO fixture with either ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6%. This provides the ideal uvb level at around 8-9” below it (which is the distance you’ll want basking spot to be). This is the biggest change that can not wait. Really, it is the only one that can’t wait.
• Temperature - Thermometer broke so I am ordering a new one, but I would think basking temp was around 85° with bottom being low 70s. Lowest temperature is 69° at night You’ll want to decrease your basking temp to 80. Night temp drop is great!
• Humidity - Waiting on it to be delivered so I honestly, and regrettably as I know it is poor husbandry, am not sure but I believe it is humid enough Ideal range is between 30-50%, which is around the same level that we are comfortable at. At night, you have a decent enough temp drop that you could use a cool mist fogger to boost humidity to simulate natural hydration of fog in the wild.
• Plants - No live plants, just silk in the enclosure, except a head of lettuce that is replaced every 4 days (it has a water container so it stays fresh, he usually loves to chomp on it) Girls love LOVE to eat their plants. It only takes one nibble and your girl could get impacted, which is very serious. You’ll need to replace all of the artificial with safe clean live ones. Plant list is above. Pothos is amazing for chams. I use my artificial plants on the outside of my enclosures for extra privacy.
• Placement - on a desk to the left of an air vent but out of the direct airflow’s course. The desk is approximately 3.5 ft tall Ok…sounds good. Height=safety for chams and they prefer to be above us.
• Location - Athens, Georgia. I am a first year college student

• Current Problem - Same as listed in the history- I am worried he is either constipated, sick, has a parasite, or is just straight up dying. I have had other reptiles before (bearded dragons, geckos, an iguana) but this is my first chameleon. I am in college, and all of the exotic vets in my area charge a ~$300 emergency vet fee, with the closest appointment I could get being next Monday (I write this on a Tuesday)… if it comes to it I will bring him to the vet because I am so attached to him, and it is my duty as his owner to provide him with the best care. However, I am not made of money. Kind of at a loss for direction, could really use some support and guidance from peers who are much more experienced. Making the changes I’ve suggested will correct your general husbandry and prevent future problems. I’m not so sure it will ‘fix’ your current issue, which is why I defer to @kinyonga who has a wealth of experience and knowledge.
  With our girls, our husbandry has to be spot on because of the egg production/laying. Once you have passed this current hurdle and after she has laid her first clutch of eggs, you’ll want to reduce her feedings to 3-4 feeders, either every other day or preferably 3 days a week. This will help reduce her egg production, laying and will prolong her life.

I will be implenting all you changes as soon as possible… I really cannot thank you enough for taking the time out of your day to help me and Cairo. It means the world

 

[kiturcotte]

Signs of eggbinding...sleeping during the day....sitting low in the cage...lethargic, etc.

Bin has been made and covered, but I placed her in the bin and she immediately crawled out and went back to the top of the enclosure…

 

[kinyonga]

She knows it's there now...so hopefully she'll use it.

 

[Lindasjackson]

I’m praying she will lay her eggs no problem and get better after that! I’m so glad you came here and asked for help. It seems pet stores are only there to sell the pets. They really don’t know anything about them most of the time unless it’s a cat or dog.

 

[kiturcotte]

I’m praying she will lay her eggs no problem and get better after that! I’m so glad you came here and asked for help. It seems pet stores are only there to sell the pets. They really don’t know anything about them most of the time unless it’s a cat or dog.

I am very glad I came here too!!! She laid an egg this morning (didn’t try to dig or bury, just on the top of the laybin…. but at least it’s progress!!) so it’s good to know that she’s progressing hopefully as she should.

From the bottom of my heart I really do appreciate everyone’s feedback, because while it is a little disheartening and very embarassing to know that I conducted in some poor health choices regarding Cairo, I’m very eager to change them for the better and give her the life she deserves

 

[kinyonga]

If she's dropping eggs...I would dig a hole of her in the lay bin and hope she uses it.

Keep us posted about what's happening....but don't let her see you watching her when she's digging or laying.

 

[MissSkittles]

I am very glad I came here too!!! She laid an egg this morning (didn’t try to dig or bury, just on the top of the laybin…. but at least it’s progress!!) so it’s good to know that she’s progressing hopefully as she should.

From the bottom of my heart I really do appreciate everyone’s feedback, because while it is a little disheartening and very embarassing to know that I conducted in some poor health choices regarding Cairo, I’m very eager to change them for the better and give her the life she deserves

No reason to be embarrassed. We don’t know, what we don’t know. It doesn’t help that there is a tremendous amount of bad or outdated info on keeping chameleons out there and it’s hard to know what is correct.
I’m rooting for your sweet girl to lay her eggs and have a long and healthy life.

 

[kiturcotte]

This is Cairo today- still only laid the one egg and hasn’t made a move to the bottom of her cage. Her new light, liquid calcium without d3 and new misting/fogging system is coming today!

Her appetite has not returned, she literally stepped on a cricket that was on a branch and crushed it as she was walking along but it regularly drinking.

I was misting and she had reached out and climbed up my hand and onto my shoulder where she stayed for a bit. I sat in the window and she seemed to like the sun, but then I shortly put her back and covered her enclosure to let her be.

I’m worried she might be egg bound, but she doesn’t appear to be shaped arbormally? She is starting to thin out along the top of her tail and spine but she really has no desire to eat anything I provide.

Is it that abnormal for a first yield to only consist of one egg? Other than not eating she has returned to her normal behavior. All of the vets in my area that deal with exotic pets have no openings until next Thursday….

I know this is a lot so I apologize for the word vomit but what do you guys think?

 

[kinyonga]

Please post a couple of photos of the whole cage for me.

 

[kiturcotte]

Please post a couple of photos of the whole cage for me.

This is it! In my hurry I ended up getting a dish that was 4” for her laybin, but I will be getting a larger one. It was also brought to my attention that she would need a bigger cage as she got larger, so I will be accommodating for that.

I am in the process of searching for live plants, and I will hopefully get those this weekend. The little white plate is what I put the feeders on but Cairo fell asleep and I did not want to wake her to remove it tonight.

Her new light is coming tomorrow morning along with the mister as the delivery got delayed… I say all of this to let you know that the cage will be changed to accommodate proper husbandry because I know it’s current state is not that desirable

 

[Lindasjackson]

I would get that lay bin and set it up asap. If she doesn’t have a proper place to lay her eggs she will get egg bound.