First baby veiled chameleon, no poop (First post)

[Nelbows]

I got my first chameleon (veiled) on Feb 22, 2025. I got him (pesto) from a reptile expo in montana that same day from the LLLreptiles booth.
He was starting to shed when I first got him and now he's shed everything but a few spots on his crest and head. I think from his head to the base of his tail is around 4 inches. I think he is around 3 months old, not entirely sure.

Cage/Enclosure: 18x18x48 (LxWxH) He came with the Zoo Med Deluxe Chameleon Kit (https://www.lllreptile.com/products...MImNuZwMHliwMVAM_CBB2NciNQEAQYASABEgIKy_D_BwE) I'm using everything that came with it but none of the fake plants/vines because I already had a big pothos for when I did get a cham. I have many branches in a variety of thickness (most relatively thin since he's juvenile). Plenty go horizontal and some nearly vertical but still have a slope. The pothos vines are all over the enclosure so he can get anywhere he wants. I also have little clay balls (hydro balls) at the bottom of the enclosure and some flat and smooth stones as well.

Feeding and Water: I feed him around 8-10 ish small mealworms a day (or until he wont eat anymore) and a 1-2 (max) small superworms as treats after I handle him so he trusts me a bit more, (I know both aren't super nutritious and I will be getting better feeders soon) I gut load them with carrots and oranges and have dusted them all with repti calcium without d3 everyday and I dusted his today with some with d3. I hand feed him with a small shallow dish that i usually only put one worm in at a time (3-4 in the morning and the rest in the late afternoon when I get home from school). I've see him drink daily from the leaves when I spray them down in the morning and before I turn off his lights (I don't have a dripper.)

Handling: I (and some others) have handled him almost every day, trying to keep it to at most once a day and for usually less than five minutes just so he is more used to being handled. He has not hissed at all but he has puffed out his throat when I tried to find the temperature of his basking spot while he was nearby.

Temperature and Humidity: At the lowest during the day (near the bottom) it can get to like 69 degrees Fahrenheit, highest 73, and around 80-85 for basking. For humidity it's usually 45-65 during the day (mostly in lower 50's) and at night I have a regular humidifier on all night (I'm going to get an actual fogger that has timers soon) and it's about 85-100% humidity during the night.

Lights: I am using a linear reptisun T5 HO UVB that sits at the top of his cage, it doesn't like to ignite so its mostly been off (but I think I figured out how to fix that tonight.) His basking light is at least three inches above the top of the cage, (around five from his highest basking spot), and its a blue bulb that shines white light (I think zoo med).

Placement: He is in my small bedroom on my dresser, no windows and there is a small vent a few feet away that I have closed so it doesn't get too hot in there since it is such a small room. It is a very low traffic area, the only time people are in there is if I am in there, and or I am letting my family and friends see him. I'm planning on getting a curtain to go around his cage (attached to the ceiling) when he is asleep since usually I stay up later than when he's asleep and I don't want to wake him.

Concerns: HE HAS NOT POOPED since I have gotten him (or its just hidden in the back of his enclosure)
I can see his ribs a bit which I am concerned about since I just want him to be healthy.
He also likes to lay down (not supporting his weight) on branches during the day, usually up high in his enclosure, and he leans slightly when he does it, so he might be basking.
He also used to get a very dark brown when I first got him and he would be basking, which I know he is doing to absorb more heat, but I haven't seen him get as dark lately and usually its only for a little bit.
He also has a few tiny black spots on his face, like on the ridges on above his eyes and a larger one (but still small) that makes it look like he has a tiny beak.
He almost does a seal pose a few times a day, it started once he started to shed more but he also does it after he drinks, I just want to make sure it's normal and not a sign of something worse.

I just want the best for Pesto so I will take all criticism and suggestions for my baby. I will post photos of his enclosure tomorrow when he's awake, as well as his ribs, his black spots, and the way he lays down.

 

[Motherlode Chameleon]

Keep your conditions optimum and he should be okay. LLL reptile I have got chameleons from in the past and for the most part not had problems. If your nerves are pasted the okay point you could once or twice a day hand water with a needless syringe and hand feed by pinching the heads of a cricket or superworm and feed once or twice a day to assist start your chameleons off.

I recommend posting pictures of your chameleon to assess your chameleons condition.

Best Regards
Jeremy A. Rich

 

[Nelbows]

Where do I get a needless syringe from? And do I just like make a paste with the heads? Im confused.
Also I will definitely post some pictures tomorrow morning.

 

[Motherlode Chameleon]

Where do I get a needless syringe from? And do I just like make a paste with the heads? Im confused.
Also I will definitely post some pictures tomorrow morning.

You can pick up a needless syringe from your local vet office.

To assist feed you have to pinch the cricket or superworm heads to kill them for your chameleon. When chameleons are reluctant to hunt on their own that is a task that has to be done for the chameleon. Then open up your chameleons mouth and feed your chameleon the superworm or cricket. This is something that is done when chameleons go on "Hunger Strikes" sometimes or are having medical issues.

Best Regards
Jeremy A. Rich

 

[BleuSaphir]

Pictures can really help me.

 

[Nelbows]

He is eating just fine, he'll eat as much as I give him, usually around 8-10 mealworms and one or two super worms. I'm mostly worried about him not pooping since I've had him for almost a week now and I haven't seen any poop.

 

[Nelbows]

He finally pooped a minute ago, but I don't see the white bit, does that mean he isn't hydrated enough?

 

[Nelbows]

I just found his urate, does it look healthy? (It has some dirt on it since I found it at the bottom of the enclosure.

 

[Gloriawood]

Pesto is just adorable!!! I love the name! Urate looks great. You want no more than half to be orange/yellow color. More than that means he is dehydrated. I’m not real familiar with little guys, but I’m pretty sure he needs to be eating more than he is. I’m going to tag in someone else who knows more about juveniles. @MissSkittles

I’m also going to attach a feeder list for you. While they can eat mealworms, they aren’t really great for them and not beneficial. If you’d like, we can do a full husbandry review. If you are interested in this, let me know.

 

[Nelbows]

While they can eat mealworms, they aren’t really great for them and not beneficial

I'm aware, and I'm working on it. It's just one of the only things they had at PetSmart when I got him. I'm planning on getting some better feeders but I'm not allowed to have any roaches in my house, family rules.
Probably gonna feed him black soldier fly larvae and crickets, and silkworms once I get a bit more money.

 

[MissSkittles]

Hi and welcome. I’m a bit late to the party, but I’ll go thru all of your husbandry that you’ve posted. Will just take a bit of time.

 

[MissSkittles]

I’ll be putting my feedback in bold, and depending on how much I can’t shut up, may break this into two parts.
I got my first chameleon (veiled) on Feb 22, 2025. I got him (pesto) Great name! from a reptile expo in montana that same day from the LLLreptiles booth.
He was starting to shed when I first got him and now he's shed everything but a few spots on his crest and head. I think from his head to the base of his tail is around 4 inches. I think he is around 3 months old, not entirely sure. Not able to say if that seems about right, because I’m not so sure Pesto is a boy. He’s either too young to be showing any hints of his colors/patterns and higher casque, or he’s a she. With veileds it’s usually easy to determine gender. Boys have prominent nubs (tarsal spurs) sticking out from their back feet heels. Here’s a pic of my guy when he was around 4 months old. You can see his tarsal spurs and his male pattern of vertical bars. His casque was already just a bit taller than and adult females.


Cage/Enclosure: 18x18x48 (LxWxH) I’m afraid that he will need just a bit bigger…a 2x2x4’ or equivalent. The Zoo Med deluxe kit enclosure is 36” high. I would suggest buying a Lg size ReptiBreeze and joining it with your current enclosure side by side. The 36” width will make up for the height deficit and Pesto will most definitely enjoy the space. He came with the Zoo Med Deluxe Chameleon Kit (https://www.lllreptile.com/products...MImNuZwMHliwMVAM_CBB2NciNQEAQYASABEgIKy_D_BwE) I'm using everything that came with it but none of the fake plants/vines because I already had a big pothos for when I did get a cham. Good! Our veiled pals like to nibble on their plants and it only takes one nibble of a fake leaf to cause a bowel obstruction, which is quite serious. Pothos are perfect for chameleons and I suggest taking some clippings to start new plants every now and then. You may want to think about getting a taller center plant, like a weeping fig, money tree or schefflera. You would also need a plant light for those. I have many branches in a variety of thickness Excellent! Will exercise the mitten muscles well. (most relatively thin since he's juvenile). Plenty go horizontal and some nearly vertical but still have a slope. The pothos vines are all over the enclosure so he can get anywhere he wants. Also excellent. While generally slow movers, chameleons can be pretty active at times. I also have little clay balls (hydro balls) at the bottom of the enclosure and some flat and smooth stones as well. I’m guessing this is to manage drainage? The concern I might have is stagnant water beneath the stones and growing bacteria. It’s much easier and more hygienic to keep a bare floor. However, I would put the clay balls aside. Get your husbandry basics down well and get comfortable with them and then maybe take the next step into bioactive, which will put the clay balls to good use.

Feeding and Water: I feed him around 8-10 ish small mealworms a day (or until he wont eat anymore) and a 1-2 (max) small superworms as treats after I handle him so he trusts me a bit more, (I know both aren't super nutritious and I will be getting better feeders soon) I know that your feeder choice has already been addressed. While roaches are a very good source of nutrition, you can have a healthy chameleon without feeding roaches. You do want a variety of different feeders and treats. Silkworms are wonderful feeders and well worth their cost. Many bug vendors offer variety packs, which are great if you have just one or two insect eaters. Grasshoppers are available currently only thru one vendor. https://dragonhoppers.com/ These too are well worth the cost. One of the most important things is to ensure that you are offering the correct size of insects. The rule is they need to be smaller than the space between the eyes. If they are any bigger, your chameleon won’t be able to eat them. If Pesto is as young and little as you say, superworms are going to be too big. Even giant mealworms might be a bit too big. The appropriate size would probably be around 1/4” cricket size. Here’s a great little graphic to give visual help. https://www.ghann.com/Live-Crickets-C2.aspx I gut load them with carrots and oranges You can definitely add to this. The goal is to keep the feeder bugs as healthy as possible, so that they are more nutritious. I’ll attach a graphic at the end. and have dusted them all with repti calcium without d3 everyday excellent. Do make sure to dust lightly…you don’t want the bugs to look like powdered donuts. I put a tiny amount of supplement in the cup and then add my feeders and as they move around, they dust themselves. and I dusted his today with some with d3. Is it a calcium without D3, or a multivitamin with D3? If it is a calcium with D3, then you will need a multivitamin without D3, like ReptiVite without D3. You will give each of these for one feeding, twice a month (or every other week if you prefer), but not the same week for them. For example, give the calcium with D3 on the 1st and 14th of the month and give the ReptiVite on the 7th and 21st. There is an easier way to this. You could get a multivitamin which contains D3, like the ReptiVite with D3 or Repashy calcium plus LoD. This is given for one feeding twice a month (or every other week). I hand feed him with a small shallow dish that i usually only put one worm in at a time (3-4 in the morning and the rest in the late afternoon when I get home from school). Pesto is old enough to be fed just once a day, in the morning. I suggest getting or making a feeding station. There are several different styles of them. I like this style. https://tkchameleons.com/products/shooting-gallery?variant=30018608595032 I’ve made a couple of my own like this. If you do make your own, do be sure to dull down any sharp edges. Feeding stations are best placed where easily seen from basking area, which is usually at or just below the same level. I've see him drink daily Lucky you! Many chams are secretive about drinking and some of us almost never see our chams drink. from the leaves when I spray them down in the morning and before I turn off his lights (I don't have a dripper.) IMO, drippers are optional. You do need to spray/mist for at least two minutes, twice a day - right before lights go on and then off. If the urate is mostly or all white (a touch of orange on one end is ok), all is good. If it’s dark and mostly orange, you need to add more hydration. An easy diy dripper is a plastic party cup with a pin hole in the bottom. It will hold just enough water to drip for about 15-20 minutes, which is all you’d want for a day.

Handling: I (and some others) have handled him almost every day, trying to keep it to at most once a day and for usually less than five minutes just so he is more used to being handled. This may not necessarily tame him, but will cause him stress. It’s much better for you to work on building trust with him. This is a great blog that will tell you how to do that. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/ I would also limit handling to just you and whomever else may be caring for him. While frequent handling by many different people is great for socializing dogs, cats and maybe some certain reptiles, it’s not a good technique for a chameleon. He has not hissed at all but he has puffed out his throat when I tried to find the temperature of his basking spot while he was nearby.

I seem to be talkative, so will break this in half here.

 

[MissSkittles]

Temperature and Humidity: At the lowest during the day (near the bottom) it can get to like 69 degrees Fahrenheit, highest 73, and around 80-85 for basking.I would keep the basking temp no higher than 80. Provided Pesto is a boy, his basking temp can go up to 85 when he’s older. If Pesto is a girl, it will need to stay at 80. A good way to reduce the temp without having to use a lower wattage light bulb, is to elevate the light above the screen top. This is something you need to do anyhow. Little ones are able and enjoy walking upside down on the screen top and this puts them at high risk for getting burned. Raising the light will help prevent burns. To For humidity it's usually 45-65 during the day the ideal range is between 30-50% during the day, so that 65% is a bit high. Also, if you are using only the gauge that came with the kit, it is notorious for breaking easily and being unreliable. Digital gauges with probe end are much better. (mostly in lower 50's) and at night I have a regular humidifier on all night (I'm going to get an actual fogger that has timers soon) and it's about 85-100% humidity during the night. What are your temps at night? You do not want to raise humidity unless your night temps are at least 68 or below. Heat plus high humidity greatly increases and causes respiratory infections.

Lights: I am using a linear reptisun T5 HO UVB Perfect! that sits at the top of his cage, it doesn't like to ignite so its mostly been off (but I think I figured out how to fix that tonight.) often it’s the bulb not being fully in place His basking light is at least three inches above the top of the cage, I should have read ahead. lol perfect! (around five from his highest basking spot), and its a blue bulb that shines white light (I think zoo med). You want the distance between your uvb and basking area to be around 8-9”. This provides the ideal uv level.

Placement: He is in my small bedroom on my dresser, no windows and there is a small vent a few feet away that I have closed so it doesn't get too hot in there since it is such a small room. If it does get too hot, you may want to turn off the basking light for part of the day. Some keepers only have the basking light on for 4-6 hours per day. In nature, chameleons don’t spend their entire day basking. There are devices available to automatically sense basking temps and cycle the basking light off and on. https://spyderrobotics.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1 It is a very low traffic area, the only time people are in there is if I am in there, and or I am letting my family and friends see him. I'm planning on getting a curtain to go around his cage (attached to the ceiling) when he is asleep since usually I stay up later than when he's asleep and I don't want to wake him. Good. Just make sure not to block ventilation. I have to block my chameleons views of each other in a small room and use this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XTYY5HH?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_8&th=1 You could probably use a room ‘screen’ too - like this. https://www.amazon.com/Room-Divider...en&sprefix=room+screen,garden,248&sr=1-6&th=1

Concerns: HE HAS NOT POOPED since I have gotten him (or it’s just hidden in the back of his enclosure) I see that he did finally poop and to me it looks fine. I do think getting him tested for intestinal parasites is a good idea. Most commercial breeders/animal vendors do not test.
I can see his ribs a bit which I am concerned about since I just want him to be healthy. Often we can see their ribs. However, I forgot to add in above that you are not feeding him enough. For around 3 months old, you should be giving him around 20ish bugs daily. As he gets older, you’ll start reducing the amount and frequency. Also, we feed our girls a bit differently, so confirming gender is important.
He also likes to lay down (not supporting his weight) on branches during the day, usually up high in his enclosure, and he leans slightly when he does it, so he might be basking. I occasionally see mine do this. Just watch for signs of illness, such as lethargy, not basking, eyes closed during the day, not eating/drinking, staying low in the enclosure, etc.
He also used to get a very dark brown when I first got him and he would be basking, which I know he is doing to absorb more heat, but I haven't seen him get as dark lately and usually its only for a little bit. Chams will often darken in order to better absorb heat and uvb. Usually, their relaxed and rating colors are dull and brownish or greyish. When stressed or excited is when the full brightness and colors show.
He also has a few tiny black spots on his face, like on the ridges on above his eyes and a larger one (but still small) that makes it look like he has a tiny beak. Dots are pretty normal.
He almost does a seal pose a few times a day, it started once he started to shed more but he also does it after he drinks, I just want to make sure it's normal and not a sign of something worse. What is a seal pose? Do you mean with his nose in the air, like he’s looking at the sky? If that is what you mean, there are different reasons for that. If he’s doing it a lot or almost all of the time, it is a sign of a respiratory infection and he needs to be seen by a vet asap. Sometimes they’ll do that to use gravity to help get their food swallowed, but after drinking is different. Their airway is in the front of their mouth, so he may be using gravity to have the water flow to the back of his throat to better swallow it and not aspirate it…maybe? Defintely keep an eye on this.

I just want the best for Pesto so I will take all criticism and suggestions for my baby. I will post photos of his enclosure tomorrow when he's awake, as well as his ribs, his black spots, and the way he lays down. You’ve got a very good start so far. Of course I could go on about some different ideas to improve, but my brain is tired and your eyes and brain are probably tired too from my babbling. So, let me suggest checking out https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ So many different resources there, so explore explore explore! Read all that you can hear on the forum, even if it doesn’t apply to you. Keep asking questions, sharing pics and adventures of Pesto. We’re all like a chamily here and enjoy getting to know each other and everyone’s scaled friends.

 

[Eileen]

Miss Skittles, I learn so much from all your advice to everyone. Thank you for going into such detail, it helps even the ones you're not replying to directly.. like me here!
So you said "You want the distance between your uvb and basking area to be around 8-9”. This provides the ideal uv level." does this mean the placement of the uvb light and the basking light are that far apart from each other on top of the enclosure? because I was told they were to be right together.

 

[MissSkittles]

Miss Skittles, I learn so much from all your advice to everyone. Thank you for going into such detail, it helps even the ones you're not replying to directly.. like me here!
So you said "You want the distance between your uvb and basking area to be around 8-9”. This provides the ideal uv level." does this mean the placement of the uvb light and the basking light are that far apart from each other on top of the enclosure? because I was told they were to be right together.

Yes, you want the uvb and basking lights to be side by side, so that when your chameleon is basking, she’s getting both heat and uvb.
I’m glad you’re learning more and more. When I was new I read just about every post, even though so many I didn’t understand and they didn’t relate to me. Eventually it all started to fit together and make sense.

 

[Eileen]

Yes, you want the uvb and basking lights to be side by side, so that when your chameleon is basking, she’s getting both heat and uvb.
I’m glad you’re learning more and more. When I was new I read just about every post, even though so many I didn’t understand and they didn’t relate to me. Eventually it all started to fit together and make sense.

and here you are

 

[Nelbows]

You could get a multivitamin which contains D3, like the ReptiVite with D3 or

It's the repetitive reptile vitamin with d3.

 

[Nelbows]

Boys have prominent nubs (tarsal spurs) sticking out from their back feet heels.

The guy I bought him from said he was a boy, and it looks like he had them, they're just not crazy prominent.

 

[Nelbows]

What is a seal pose? Do you mean with his nose in the air, like he’s looking at the sky? If that is what you mean, there are different reasons for that. If he’s doing it a lot or almost all of the time, it is a sign of a respiratory infection and he needs to be seen by a vet asap. Sometimes they’ll do that to use gravity to help get their food swallowed, but after drinking is different. Their airway is in the front of their mouth, so he may be using gravity to have the water flow to the back of his throat to better swallow it and not aspirate it…maybe? Defintely keep an eye on this.

Yeah, he looks up at the sky, but it was also after he had eaten a bit but was just drinking at that moment.