Fist day at home

[Goose502]

I do agree that a large, poorly decorated cage is a bad idea for a baby chameleon. I've been using oversized habitats for decades, for dozens of species of reptiles, not just chameleons. My focus is on natural recreation. I, along with many hobbiests, feel this is the best way to keep specimens healthy, happy, and behavioral wise, most like in the wild. This is not the answer for quarantine, weather the animal is new to the collection, or part of a clutch of neonates. The OP's chameleon is no longer a neonate, and is housed alone. Smaller caging has its place, but not because an animal is small. Save some money, build one habitat for the life of your chameleon, and build it right.

 

[Luischameleon]

@Panthro413 Care sheets are a good start but I don't take them as gospel. Everyone's house and micro climate inside the cage is different. My misting schedule changes, sometimes daily, based on things like the temps/humidy of where I live. There is no hard and fast rule for keeping any species, always "it depends."

There are two benefits to a small cage--it is easier to control food and monitor stool output and quality; and it is less likely for baby to bail off a branch and drop to the floor hurting itself. The species I work with is notorious for "disking" which is rolling into a ball and dropping. I've learned to pad the bottom of the cage. An 18" x 18" x 36" cage is pretty small. If he were a tiny neonate, I would put him in a solid-walled plastic tote, not a screen cage.

@Luischameleon What are you asking about the color of his urates? The end product of protein metabolism in chameleons are urates. They come from the kidneys. Mammals produce urine, reptiles and birds produce urates. These are usually produced at the same time the chameleon defecates. Urates should be white. If they are dark colored--yellow to orange, it means the chameleon is likely dehydrated. Often a chameleon will not defecate for long periods so one end of the urate becomes dark and quite dry. The stool is a dark brown and ovoid in shape. You want nice snow white urates.

Chronic dehydration is a major problem with chameleons in captivity. It leads to kidney failure and an early death. Few keepers without automatic misting systems can keep their chameleons properly hydrated. Chronic low level dehydration kills a lot of chameleons a year or two down the road. Remember what I first said about hydration? Mist him a lot. In a sparse cage, he is less likely to drink than if he were feeling safe and secure. They do not drink from a bowl--they drink from leaves. A high humidity environment prevents a lot of fluid loss just from breathing.

I'm misting him every hour, and I'm avoiding to stay in my bedroom because i noticed he's more comfortable when im not in here.
I will try to mist more often

 

[jajeanpierre]

I'm misting him every hour, and I'm avoiding to stay in my bedroom because i noticed he's more comfortable when im not in here.
I will try to mist more often

Don't worry about being in your bedroom. Just don't look at him.

Humidity and hydration is the key to success with most chameleons. Don't think that two or three pumps of a handmister are all it takes. He needs a lot more than that.

 

[Luischameleon]

This is the cage finished for now...

What do you guys think?

 

[jagmom98]

Get some thin/small sized vines. His feet are to small for that thick branch/vine.. here is my setup, I had it all set up before he even came in 2 weeks ago whic is always the way to go. Set up a basking spot up top. Make sure you have different levels for him to regulate his temp. Sort of like a gymnasium in the cage. View attachment 190223 View attachment 190224 View attachment 190225
View attachment 190226

Really like your background. Is it a shower curtain?

 

[Panthro413]

Really like your background. Is it a shower curtain?

Yes, I got it on amazon, search for "jungle shower curtain".