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Younsaid..."It gets about 78ish degrees when the heater isn't on" ...so then you don't need the heater if it's that warm at night. You said..." it is blowing on the cage"...it should not be blowing on the cage.

You said..."The heat light is UVB and that is the one I keep on 24/7."..the UVB should not be on during the night. I recommend using the reptisun5.0 long linear tube light UVB.

You said..."I meant hot and misty when I spray it"...it should only be Luke warm. If the water is hot it might hurt the chameleon.

You said..."Where can I get the stuff to dust the crickets and do you know any good brands? How do you dust them?"...Reptile stores have the supplements and you can order them on line too. I use Rep-cal phosphorous-free calcium powder and Rep-cal phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder and Herptivite. You put a little bit in a container (tall deli cup for instance) add the crickets and gently shake to coat the insects then feed the insects to the chameleon. They should not look like ghosts.

You said..."How can I keep track of how much she is eating?"... Either hand feed or count the crickets you throw in the cage. Count the leftover crickets in then cage. If she's pooping she's eating.

How can I make her over all happier.?
 
Younsaid..."It gets about 78ish degrees when the heater isn't on" ...so then you don't need the heater if it's that warm at night. You said..." it is blowing on the cage"...it should not be blowing on the cage.

You said..."The heat light is UVB and that is the one I keep on 24/7."..the UVB should not be on during the night. I recommend using the reptisun5.0 long linear tube light UVB.

You said..."I meant hot and misty when I spray it"...it should only be Luke warm. If the water is hot it might hurt the chameleon.

You said..."Where can I get the stuff to dust the crickets and do you know any good brands? How do you dust them?"...Reptile stores have the supplements and you can order them on line too. I use Rep-cal phosphorous-free calcium powder and Rep-cal phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder and Herptivite. You put a little bit in a container (tall deli cup for instance) add the crickets and gently shake to coat the insects then feed the insects to the chameleon. They should not look like ghosts.

You said..."How can I keep track of how much she is eating?"... Either hand feed or count the crickets you throw in the cage. Count the leftover crickets in then cage. If she's pooping she's eating.

How can I make her over all happier.?
Thank you so much! I don’t know what I would do without this site! I’m ready to make my Cham feel at home!
 
Younsaid..."It gets about 78ish degrees when the heater isn't on" ...so then you don't need the heater if it's that warm at night. You said..." it is blowing on the cage"...it should not be blowing on the cage.

You said..."The heat light is UVB and that is the one I keep on 24/7."..the UVB should not be on during the night. I recommend using the reptisun5.0 long linear tube light UVB.

You said..."I meant hot and misty when I spray it"...it should only be Luke warm. If the water is hot it might hurt the chameleon.

You said..."Where can I get the stuff to dust the crickets and do you know any good brands? How do you dust them?"...Reptile stores have the supplements and you can order them on line too. I use Rep-cal phosphorous-free calcium powder and Rep-cal phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder and Herptivite. You put a little bit in a container (tall deli cup for instance) add the crickets and gently shake to coat the insects then feed the insects to the chameleon. They should not look like ghosts.

You said..."How can I keep track of how much she is eating?"... Either hand feed or count the crickets you throw in the cage. Count the leftover crickets in then cage. If she's pooping she's eating.

How can I make her over all happier.?
Onpy problem with the feeding part is that she is so stressed out about me that she won’t even eat or drink in my presence
 
How important is it to have a uvb lightbulb? I went to the reptile store and they said that superworms are too big for her at this age and we had to keep with meal worms as well. However I did get the calcium stuff to put on the crickets
 
UVB is 100% a MUST have!

Mealworms are a 100% do NOT feed!

She is perfectly capable of eating small superworms (that have been properly gutloaded) There is a huge verity of feeders she can have.

90% do NOT listen to the advice of people at the pet store!! (there is the rare person who actually knows what they are talking about working at one, but as a rule of thumb, do not take a pet store's advice about the care of a cham!!
 
UVB is 100% a MUST have!

Mealworms are a 100% do NOT feed!

She is perfectly capable of eating small superworms (that have been properly gutloaded) There is a huge verity of feeders she can have.

90% do NOT listen to the advice of people at the pet store!! (there is the rare person who actually knows what they are talking about working at one, but as a rule of thumb, do not take a pet store's advice about the care of a cham!!
Thank you so much! I will get a UVB as soon as possible! And buy superworms! He also said to have a full day where there are no crickets in the cage or else they aren’t as appealing. Is that bad too? I want to make sure I’m not doing anything to hurt her.
 
@ 2 months your cham should be eating everyday, and eating as much as it can! When mine was 2 months old, I would add a bunch of crickets (lightly dusted) and/or fruit flies in the morning, then if later in the day there where none left I would add some more, then repeat.

I think the care sheets will help you a lot, so read through them. Then you will have a better understanding of what your chams needs are.

Make sure if you get superworms, that they are the correct size! You will want the extra small - small ones!
 
You said..."Onpy problem with the feeding part is that she is so stressed out about me that she won’t even eat or drink in my presence"..if you let he crickets loose in the cage and go aepway she won't be stressed and should eat.
 
UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 which allows it to use the calcium in its system. Calcium is important for muscles and egg shells and bone health and other things in the chameleons systems. Without it she will develop MBD. BTW when she's an adult she will produce eggs even if she isn't mated...so she will need an egg bin in her cage then. She will be mustard yellow splotches and turquoise dots when she's mature.
 
UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 which allows it to use the calcium in its system. Calcium is important for muscles and egg shells and bone health and other things in the chameleons systems. Without it she will develop MBD. BTW when she's an adult she will produce eggs even if she isn't mated...so she will need an egg bin in her cage then. She will be mustard yellow splotches and turquoise dots when she's mature.
Thank you. How old do you think she will be when she starts laying eggs?
 
It's impossible to say for sure when she will start....but it shouldn't be until after she gets the mustard yellow splotches and bright blue dots.
 
You said in the first post in this thread that she's only 2 months...then she shouldn't have yellowish splotches for another couple of months.
Post a photo of her with the splotches.
 
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