I came home at 9pm and my chameleon was on the ground and he is extremely weak.

ButtSalsa

New Member
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Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, male, 2 months, I've had him since June 12th 2017.
  • Handling - used to be a couple times a week but recently cut down to nothing due to weird activity.
  • Feeding - about 4 crickets once a day if he eats them. I've only ever seen/been able to get him to eat 1 before he loses interest. I leave the others in the cage and I assume he eats them as the crawl around the cage. I dust the crickets in calcium powder every feeding session.
  • Supplements - ths first picture below shows the calcium I use and the food and water supply that I use for the crickets.
  • Watering - water 4 - 5 times dailey, sometimes he seems to has trouble finding the water even though almost all leaves in the cage have water on them. I have a dripper leaf thing in his cage. I've seen him drink from it before but only once since I've had it. I try to show him it whenever he is handled by letting a drop of water run onto his chin but he doesn't seem to know how to go it every time.
  • Fecal Description - seems to be the normal dark brown and white colors that I've read are signs of normal colors to see. He does however, poop on himself sometimes. I've had to rub it off for him twice now with a baby wipe that I ran under water to soften it up a little and to try to minimize on whatever cleaning ingredient is in baby wipes.
  • History - he's been pretty "normal" up untill about a week ago. I've moved his cage inside due to the Florida heat and so he could see me more often to help get used to me being around.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - screen cage, 18"×18"×26" there is a plastic cut out taped to the outter back side of the cage to not spray my wall during misting times. There is also a towel drapped over the left side of the cage to cover the cords for the lights so they don't get wet.
  • Lighting - using 60w daylight blue reptile bulb from zoo-med and a uvb light from the same company (don't have box to give power of it if that's a thing). I just picked up a All Living Things 20" reptile strip light with a 18' 15 watt T8 UVB light bulb because I was reading the smaller one might not be providing enough UVB. I have both lights on a timer for a little over 12 hours a day from 6am -8pm (the current length of a FL day)
  • Temperature - ranges from low 70s at night and high 80s in his basking spot. I get 60% - 70% humitiy that I try to maintain. Sometimes it drops to 40% - 50% over night. I spray 4 - 5 times dailey and have a pothos plant starting to grow and jasmine along the back of the cage. Both have been looked up as acceptable plants for chameleons. I use a Great Choice temp and humitiy gage. What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - stated above
  • Plants - stated in temp discription.
  • Placement - cage is in my room on my dresser. The top of the cage is 6 feet off of the ground that way. Where is your cage located?
  • Location - Florida

Current Problem - I came home at 9pm and my chameleon was on the floor of his cage. He was in water that was pooled up a little from not having proper dranage. He was cold so I turned the heat light on while in my hand, after a minute I got a tupperware and made a bed for him to lay in to warm up and dry off. He he staying in there ocer night because he is too weak to get up and out. He moves a little when I turn the heat lamp on and opens his mouth to kind of weeze. Not sure what that means or what I should be doing currently. I just turned his lights off for the night since he should be sleeping right now anyways. He is laying on his side right now but seems to still be alive. I will be taking him to the vet ASAP but this will suffice for now.
Please look at pictures below:
 
Okay, that's good you are taking him to the vet. 4 crickets a day is not enough food. Also, do you have a timer for your heat/uvb bulb? I hope everything works out and your chameleon is okay.
 
Sorry about your little guy.
Could he have eaten one of those cricket quenchers? They will expand in the stomach.
No, those don't ever make it to his cage. I only use those in the crickets cage. I transport them to his cage in a tupperware bowl. Thanks anyways! I appreciate the effort :)
 
Okay, that's good you are taking him to the vet. 4 crickets a day is not enough food. Also, do you have a timer for your heat/uvb bulb? I hope everything works out and your chameleon is okay.
I have both lights on a timer and they are on for a little over 12 hours each day. From 6am - 8pm, the length of the day in my area. Thanks for the wishes, I hope he has some energy in the morning.
 
There's quite a bit that I would change with your husbandry...but it might not be part of the problem.

What's on the floor of the cage? Mulch?
What size are the crickets?
How deep was the water on the floor of the cage?
Has his eye been sunken in before today? Has he slept during the day?
 
  • Feeding - about 4 crickets once a day if he eats them. I've only ever seen/been able to get him to eat 1 before he loses interest. I leave the others in the cage and I assume he eats them as the crawl around the cage. I dust the crickets in calcium powder every feeding session. That's not enough at that age he should be eating about 15 of the appropriate sized cricket. What size are you using?
  • Supplements - ths first picture below shows the calcium I use and the food and water supply that I use for the crickets. I would ditch the orange cubes and the water and feed/gutload the crickets with a wide assortment of greens such as dandelion greens, kale, endive, escarole, collards, etc and veggies such as carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, etc and a bit of fruit such as melon, berries, apples, pears etc. Also it's recommended that you dust at almost every feeding with a phosphorous-free calcium powder, twice a month with a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues but D3 produced from exposure to the UVB won't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it at will. Also, twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a prOformed beta carotene source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A won't build up in the system like prEformed sources will. However this leaves it up to you to decide when/if the chameleon needs prEformed vitamin A.
  • Watering - water 4 - 5 times dailey, sometimes he seems to has trouble finding the water even though almost all leaves in the cage have water on them. I have a dripper leaf thing in his cage. I've seen him drink from it before but only once since I've had it. I try to show him it whenever he is handled by letting a drop of water run onto his chin but he doesn't seem to know how to go it every time.
  • Fecal Description - seems to be the normal dark brown and white colors that I've read are signs of normal colors to see. He does however, poop on himself sometimes. I've had to rub it off for him twice now with a baby wipe that I ran under water to soften it up a little and to try to minimize on whatever cleaning ingredient is in baby wipes.
  • History - he's been pretty "normal" up untill about a week ago. I've moved his cage inside due to the Florida heat and so he could see me more often to help get used to me being around. It's not near a vent or fan is it?

  • Cage Type - screen cage, 18"×18"×26" there is a plastic cut out taped to the outter back side of the cage to not spray my wall during misting times. There is also a towel drapped over the left side of the cage to cover the cords for the lights so they don't get wet.
  • Lighting - using 60w daylight blue reptile bulb from zoo-med and a uvb light from the same company (don't have box to give power of it if that's a thing). I just picked up a All Living Things 20" reptile strip light with a 18' 15 watt T8 UVB light bulb because I was reading the smaller one might not be providing enough UVB. I have both lights on a timer for a little over 12 hours a day from 6am -8pm (the current length of a FL day). I use a regular incandescent household bulb for a basking light. Colored bulbs are not recommended. The Repti-sun 5.0 long linear tube UVB light is most often recommended.
  • Temperature - ranges from low 70s at night and high 80s in his basking spot. I get 60% - 70% humitiy that I try to maintain. Sometimes it drops to 40% - 50% over night. I spray 4 - 5 times dailey and have a pothos plant starting to grow and jasmine along the back of the cage. Both have been looked up as acceptable plants for chameleons. I use a Great Choice temp and humitiy gage. What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? For a young veiled I keep the basking temperature in the low 89's F.
  • Humidity - stated above
  • Plants - stated in temp discription.
  • Placement - cage is in my room on my dresser. The top of the cage is 6 feet off of the ground that way. Where is your cage located?
  • Location - Florida
 
There's quite a bit that I would change with your husbandry...but it might not be part of the problem.

What's on the floor of the cage? Mulch?
What size are the crickets?
How deep was the water on the floor of the cage?
Has his eye been sunken in before today? Has he slept during the day?
There is a light layer of repti bark from zoo med, the water is filling in the small spaces in the bark so it's not deep at all, enough to get you wet by touch.
I feed him small crickets, sometimes the the local pet stop slips some large ones in there but I make sure to separate and not use for feeding.
His eyes have started looking dry around the edges for the last 2 days but nothing like the picture. He looked like that when I found him tonight.
He started sleeping during the day about 2 days ago as well. He was really weak yesterday, where he wasn't moving very much at all. He never seems to have an appetite so I'm not sure how I can allow him to gain back some energy.
 
There's a recipe for bug juice ....but you'll need a needleless syringe or an eyedropper to give it to him. You have to ease it in a little at a time though because you don't want to end up with anything in his lungs. Same for water.
Here's the link...
http://www.adcham.com/html/husbandry/bug-juice.html

I would remove the substrate so he can't accidentally invest it.
 
  • Feeding - about 4 crickets once a day if he eats them. I've only ever seen/been able to get him to eat 1 before he loses interest. I leave the others in the cage and I assume he eats them as the crawl around the cage. I dust the crickets in calcium powder every feeding session. That's not enough at that age he should be eating about 15 of the appropriate sized cricket. What size are you using?
  • Supplements - ths first picture below shows the calcium I use and the food and water supply that I use for the crickets. I would ditch the orange cubes and the water and feed/gutload the crickets with a wide assortment of greens such as dandelion greens, kale, endive, escarole, collards, etc and veggies such as carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, etc and a bit of fruit such as melon, berries, apples, pears etc. Also it's recommended that you dust at almost every feeding with a phosphorous-free calcium powder, twice a month with a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues but D3 produced from exposure to the UVB won't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it at will. Also, twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a prOformed beta carotene source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A won't build up in the system like prEformed sources will. However this leaves it up to you to decide when/if the chameleon needs prEformed vitamin A.
  • Watering - water 4 - 5 times dailey, sometimes he seems to has trouble finding the water even though almost all leaves in the cage have water on them. I have a dripper leaf thing in his cage. I've seen him drink from it before but only once since I've had it. I try to show him it whenever he is handled by letting a drop of water run onto his chin but he doesn't seem to know how to go it every time.
  • Fecal Description - seems to be the normal dark brown and white colors that I've read are signs of normal colors to see. He does however, poop on himself sometimes. I've had to rub it off for him twice now with a baby wipe that I ran under water to soften it up a little and to try to minimize on whatever cleaning ingredient is in baby wipes.
  • History - he's been pretty "normal" up untill about a week ago. I've moved his cage inside due to the Florida heat and so he could see me more often to help get used to me being around. It's not near a vent or fan is it?
  • Cage Type - screen cage, 18"×18"×26" there is a plastic cut out taped to the outter back side of the cage to not spray my wall during misting times. There is also a towel drapped over the left side of the cage to cover the cords for the lights so they don't get wet.
  • Lighting - using 60w daylight blue reptile bulb from zoo-med and a uvb light from the same company (don't have box to give power of it if that's a thing). I just picked up a All Living Things 20" reptile strip light with a 18' 15 watt T8 UVB light bulb because I was reading the smaller one might not be providing enough UVB. I have both lights on a timer for a little over 12 hours a day from 6am -8pm (the current length of a FL day). I use a regular incandescent household bulb for a basking light. Colored bulbs are not recommended. The Repti-sun 5.0 long linear tube UVB light is most often recommended.
  • Temperature - ranges from low 70s at night and high 80s in his basking spot. I get 60% - 70% humitiy that I try to maintain. Sometimes it drops to 40% - 50% over night. I spray 4 - 5 times dailey and have a pothos plant starting to grow and jasmine along the back of the cage. Both have been looked up as acceptable plants for chameleons. I use a Great Choice temp and humitiy gage. What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? For a young veiled I keep the basking temperature in the low 89's F.
  • Humidity - stated above
  • Plants - stated in temp discription.
  • Placement - cage is in my room on my dresser. The top of the cage is 6 feet off of the ground that way. Where is your cage located?
  • Location - Florida
I'll definitely try to change his food habits if he can pull through this.
The cage is 5 feet from a vent, is this a bad thing?
 
It's not good that he's laying on his side. Is he gaping at all or breathing funny?
5feet from the vent should be fine.
 
What's the plant (3 big leaves) down the left side of the cage? Is it real?
Did you wash all the plants... real and fake before putting them in the cage?
 
What's the plant (3 big leaves) down the left side of the cage? Is it real?
Did you wash all the plants... real and fake before putting them in the cage?
everything is fake except for the jasmine vine in the back and the pothos that is also in the back. I wiped each leave with a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol before setting them in the cage, real and fake.
 
It's not good that he's laying on his side. Is he gaping at all or breathing funny?
5feet from the vent should be fine.
He is getting black spots all over. It verys in intensity. It seems to calm down after I feed him some water from a dripper. He accepts drops of water at this point but he still can't move. Should I have a heat light on him?
 
I wouldn't keep him too warm at night and you don't want lights on at night anyway. Do you leave lights on at night?
What's your room temperature at night?
 
His body weight looks fine.

Those sunken eyes are the clue. Could be a dehydration issue. If he has A/C blowing on his cage at all then it could be an RI
 
I wouldn't keep him too warm at night and you don't want lights on at night anyway. Do you leave lights on at night?
What's your room temperature at night?
No lights at night. I had to warm him after he was in the water but i turned them off after that
 
How is he this morning?
Turn off the coil uvb. You don't need both and some coil uvb bulbs can cause eye damage, burns and even death.
 
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