Please help emergency 8 month veiled male
- Thread starter tayandsteve
- Start date
tayandsteve
New Member
and the night light is only thing keeping him warm at night
tayandsteve
New Member
i can touch it and see more of it today looks like dried poop i'm wondering if its a dried sperm plug?
he seems more energetic today. we are inveseting in a new tank because thats a good point ill take more of everything pics soon
he seems more energetic today. we are inveseting in a new tank because thats a good point ill take more of everything pics soon
Carlton
Chameleon Enthusiast
How cold does the room get at night? You don't need any heat at night if it doesn't get below 60F. A light at night will keep him awake, add to stress, and keep the cage drier. He may well be fighting constant dehydration so get rid of it. As long as he can bask and warm up each morning it will be fine.
Yes, the gutload needs to be better than cricket quencher.
lindawaz
New Member
You could take a bowl with warm water in it- not deep like 1st or in between 1st and second knuckle of yours. Lily does better soaking when she can not see, so I keep one hand under her, other hand semi cupping her head. After a bit just gently brush by the poo/plug/what ever and see if it moves I would not pull it just yet until you are sure it is a plug.
I have a female but just googled images of chameleon sperm plugs they come in all different sizes shapes colors take a look!
I have a female but just googled images of chameleon sperm plugs they come in all different sizes shapes colors take a look!
Here's some information I hope will help you with things like supplements, gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
Elizadolots
New Member
How about the UVB bulb type and the info on the plant?
tayandsteve
New Member
very happy i came on this forum. just put celery leaves in the cricket tank. i never thought of that since he doesnt eat the leaves himself. wow thank you for the help guys. also yes i do take him outside a lot but its too wet and cold lately to bring him out.":/ it gets really cold at night though we keep the heater next to him too. considering boston gets really cold during the fall/winter. hoping its a sperm plug i've been spraying warm water on him but ill soak him tomorrow. he's sleeping right now. WOW JUST LOOKED OUTSIDE ITS SNOWING! MY FIRST WHITE HALLOWEEN
Celery isn't really good for gutloading
tayandsteve
New Member
ok after a soak for about 10 mins we worket the area a little bit not really doing anything but trying to see what he there and spreading the area i could see the sides of the inside of the hole and it was almost the same color as the thing hanging out but we thouched it a little and doobie was forcing out a pink thing his hemipenes? but i stoped as soon as saw that and soaked again and he stopped and the brown thing seems to be like dead flesh? cause a piece came of in the water it was tiny the piece but the pink the was weird it looked attached to the brown but when it came out a little the brown wasnt on it
tayandsteve
New Member
correction on the inside description
but on the inside were it was the same color the walls were actually dark pink and the thing hanging out was dark brown hes getting skinny though... we feed him more then usually a few days ago he hasn't ate its been like a week!
but on the inside were it was the same color the walls were actually dark pink and the thing hanging out was dark brown hes getting skinny though... we feed him more then usually a few days ago he hasn't ate its been like a week!
Carlton
Chameleon Enthusiast
lindawaz
New Member
Try this I have no idea what is wrong- punctuation done.
ok, after a soak for about 10 mins we worked the area a little bit.
Not really doing anything but trying to see what he has there. We were spreading the area i could see the sides, inside of the hole.
It was almost the same color as the thing hanging out but, when we touched it a little. Doobie was trying to force out a pink thing (his hemipenes)?
I stopped as soon as saw that and soaked again. He stopped and the brown thing seems to be like dead flesh?
A piece came off in the water. It was tiny. The pink was weird it looked attached to the brown but when it came out a little the brown wasnt on it.
ok, after a soak for about 10 mins we worked the area a little bit.
Not really doing anything but trying to see what he has there. We were spreading the area i could see the sides, inside of the hole.
It was almost the same color as the thing hanging out but, when we touched it a little. Doobie was trying to force out a pink thing (his hemipenes)?
I stopped as soon as saw that and soaked again. He stopped and the brown thing seems to be like dead flesh?
A piece came off in the water. It was tiny. The pink was weird it looked attached to the brown but when it came out a little the brown wasnt on it.
tayandsteve
New Member
we brought doobie to the vet a while ago! we went to this cheap, sort of close place, called oddpetvet. we found out poor doobie had a respitory infection and the brown thing was a sperm plug. he pooped it out...but yes, we have been giving him medication every other day for about a month and started a schedule for feeding. we've been feeding him baby food and meal worms, wax worms and crickets. also we have been using repical now. doobie really likes the chicken baby food! thank you for all the help! we're saving up for a 
Olimpia
Biologist & Ecologist
Switch to a veggie baby food if you feel you must use it (could you please explain why you're adding in the baby food? Why not just insects?), because chicken has animal protein in it and too much is hard for chameleons to process properly. Something like squash baby food would be better. But I don't think baby food is necessary unless your chameleon isn't eating at all.
tayandsteve
New Member
yeah we have squash and peas too but the vet told us to give him chicken baby food because he wasn't eating so we mix the repical in it he just likes it a lot but we also give him solid food tooo
tayandsteve
New Member
plus he needs his veggies! its only way he'll eat it. we feed it to the crickets too though
tayandsteve
New Member
and strawberry bananas too yumyum repcal*
