Please help me with my veiled

ryanbaxter

New Member
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That is the cage he is in

He has a couple injuries two missing claws/nails that whole foot is swollen

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This is a picture of him as a whole
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I did get this chameleon from a bad breeder but in my country this was the only person that sold them and was really wanting as they are my dream pets [emoji20] please give me advice as i want him to be happy thanks
 
Yes, please fill our the How to ask for help form. The first thing I thought when looking at your pictures is "he" kind of looks like a "she". Does he have a tarsal spur on the back of his foot? If your chameleon is indeed a female, you will need to provide a laying bin. Definitely fill out the form, so that you can get more effective help.
 
Yes, please fill our the How to ask for help form. The first thing I thought when looking at your pictures is "he" kind of looks like a "she". Does he have a tarsal spur on the back of his foot? If your chameleon is indeed a female, you will need to provide a laying bin. Definitely fill out the form, so that you can get more effective help.

I thought the exact same thing, I'm pretty sure you have a female there, but I could be wrong.
 
If you need help spotting the spur, this diagram might help.
 

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MY CHAMELEON: the species is a veiled around a year comming from the breeder it has been in my care for around 3 months

HANDLING: i try to handle my chameleon everyday and take him/her outside for 30 mins

FEEDING: i feed him/her zoo med can o crickets and sometimes mealworms but when i take him/her outside she has some moths and flies

SUPPLEMENTS : i have given him/her supplements a couple of times but i dont have a uvb yet as i have to order it from england but i have zoo med reptical without d3 and reptivite

WATERING: i spray the cage but i never see him/her drink from it i also had a dripper which made that didnt work well again i never saw him/her drink from it soo i bought a syringe and him/her drinks from that

FECAL DESCRIPTION: he/she does poo alot its feces is a brown with a white and a little orange urate

HISTORY: most probably not 100% sure taken from the wild meaning not a captive breed chameleon and also previous owner most likely did not look after his animals well due to the state of other chameleons of his i have seen

CAGE TYPE : custom built cage with chicken wire / mesh dimensions are 2×2×4

LIGHTING : brand trex 5a watt heat bulb do not have a uvb due to as it is nit available in the country i live in reptiles are not a common pet there but i am trying to order a 5.0 uvb zoo med compact i turn on the lights when i get up around 6am when i get up he /she is already awake and turn it off at 6:15 pm when it is dark outside

TEMPERATURE : i dont know because i dont have a thermometer stupid me i am not a good owner

HUMIDITY : this sounds stupid but i actually dont know due to i dont have a humidity range but i do mist the cage 3 times a day

PLANTS : i do have a plant its a ficus and he/she does eat from it

PLACEMENT: the cage is located upstairs where not much activity happens except for me working doing my stuff around him / her there are no fans air vents the cage hight is nearly to the ceiling

LOCATION: i live in bahrain which is near qatar to make it easier for you its near saudi/yemen where veileds are from to show how close i am its a hour and a half or less flight to saudi/yemen
 
Looking at the cage, I think it'll have a little difficulty holding in the humidity due to the width of the mesh. Perhaps place plastic sheeting/a shower curtain (maybe cut up) around the back and sides to help maintain the humidity if you're having trouble keeping the levels up. But you really need a gage to tell you the humidity and temperature inside the vivarium.
 
MY CHAMELEON: the species is a veiled around a year comming from the breeder it has been in my care for around 3 months

HANDLING: i try to handle my chameleon everyday and take him/her outside for 30 mins
Does you chameleon seem stressed when you handle him/her? Most chameleons don't tolerate handling much and everyday may be a bit too much.

FEEDING: i feed him/her zoo med can o crickets and sometimes mealworms but when i take him/her outside she has some moths and flies
Do you have access to live feeder insects? As convenient as a can of bugs is (I'm actually quite surprised that she/he is even willing to eat them!), they can not be gut-loaded like live insects can and do not have much nutritional value. Bugs from outside could be a problem because they can easily carry parasites or be exposed to pesticides.

SUPPLEMENTS : i have given him/her supplements a couple of times but i dont have a uvb yet as i have to order it from england but i have zoo med reptical without d3 and reptivite
The reptivite has d3, right? What is your schedule for supplementing? You should be giving the calcium every feeding and the reptivite (given it has d3 as well) every other week.

WATERING: i spray the cage but i never see him/her drink from it i also had a dripper which made that didnt work well again i never saw him/her drink from it soo i bought a syringe and him/her drinks from that

FECAL DESCRIPTION: he/she does poo alot its feces is a brown with a white and a little orange urate

HISTORY: most probably not 100% sure taken from the wild meaning not a captive breed chameleon and also previous owner most likely did not look after his animals well due to the state of other chameleons of his i have seen

CAGE TYPE : custom built cage with chicken wire / mesh dimensions are 2×2×4

LIGHTING : brand trex 5a watt heat bulb do not have a uvb due to as it is nit available in the country i live in reptiles are not a common pet there but i am trying to order a 5.0 uvb zoo med compact i turn on the lights when i get up around 6am when i get up he /she is already awake and turn it off at 6:15 pm when it is dark outside
You will definitely need the uvb light. It is very important to long term health.
TEMPERATURE : i dont know because i dont have a thermometer stupid me i am not a good owner

HUMIDITY : this sounds stupid but i actually dont know due to i dont have a humidity range but i do mist the cage 3 times a day
More live plants and foliage will help will humidity, but you should really get a gauge of some sort.
PLANTS : i do have a plant its a ficus and he/she does eat from it
Like I said, add more foliage if you can. Since you chameleon is eating the plant, I would suggest that you possibly offer him/her some greens or vegetables, since you do have a veiled.

PLACEMENT: the cage is located upstairs where not much activity happens except for me working doing my stuff around him / her there are no fans air vents the cage hight is nearly to the ceiling

LOCATION: i live in bahrain which is near qatar to make it easier for you its near saudi/yemen where veileds are from to show how close i am its a hour and a half or less flight to saudi/yemen

About your original question about the foot. If if it is swelling and your chameleon lost some nails, he/she could have or get an infection. Hopefully someone with better experience with this with chime it.
 
Do you have a vet you can take your chameleon to? That would be what I would suggest, because treating a chameleon for anything without a veterinarian is very tricky and most of the time unsuccessful unless you are very experienced.
 
When a chameleon's foot is swollen like that it is usually infected and because their pus is thick like cottage cheese it needs to be cleaned out by a vet and a culture and sensitivity test done to determine what bacteria is involved so that it can be put on the right antibiotic.

Unless your chameleon is able to be outside every day it needs a UVB light. It needs to have appropriate temperatures....basking in the low to mid 80's F for a female when not being bred...to aid in digestion and thus in nutrient absorption.

Its important to dust the insects before you give them to the chameleon with the proper supplements because most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phos....and can o crickets is not a good food source IMHO because they are likely too dry and likely not gutloaded.

We recommend dusting the insects at most feedings with a phos. free calcium powder, twice a month with a phos. free calcium/D3 powder and twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. D3 and prEformed vitamin A can build up in the system and lead to health issues. Regarding the D3 at the moment, since you don't have a UVB light it would be okay to dust a bit more often to ensure that the chameleon is getting enough D3 until you get the light....AS LONG AS THE CHAMELEON IS NOT GETTING ANY DIRECT SUNLIGHT THAT DOES NOT PASS THROUGH GLASS OR PLASTIC. Also, the most often recommended UVB light is the long linear Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.

Its also important to feed/gutload the insects properly. Insects like crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms can be fed/gutloaded with a wide assortment of greens and veggies such as dandelion greens, mustard greens, kale, collards, endive, escarole, carrot, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, squash, zucchini, etc. Veiled chameleons can also be offered these greens and veggies cut into appropriate sizes for them to eat...along with a little fruit such as melon, berries, apple, pear, etc.

Can you get any live insects this time of year where you live?

As for the humidity, as long as they are well hydrated it shouldn't be much of an issue.

You do need to deal with that foot asap though.
 
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