KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
Nights really don't have UVB. Try taking him out in the sun if it isn't too cold, bond a lil'. 
Please help
- Thread starter catdash
- Start date
D
DavidBuchan
Guest
dreamforthedead
New Member
Thanks. Today after giving eddie a shower he went to the bottom of his cage and is not coming up to the top.
I was thinking maybe cause you've put something new in his cage he's staying away from it (sulking) chameleons don't like change but i dunno about the weakness..
KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
Ya, night light can just be thrown out. Unless you YOURSELF want to use it on cold nights haha. Chams don't sleep with them on and they need the temp drop at night.
dreamforthedead
New Member
The purple light wont have uv in..
He just keeps falling. Ive helped him up a few times. Maybe take him out of this talk cage so he doesnt hurt himself when he falls? He is not interested in eating his crickets today either. Maybe because I dusted them? Oh my gosh im in over my head right now. I just wanna cry.
KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
Hey it's alright, don't cry. *huggles*
Did you dust them until they were white and ghosty? Sometimes they don't like too much dusting.
They can generally take falls pretty well, if you want to watch him awhile you can take him out of the cage and let him be on you.
Did you dust them until they were white and ghosty? Sometimes they don't like too much dusting.
They can generally take falls pretty well, if you want to watch him awhile you can take him out of the cage and let him be on you.
He has fallen at least three times today. I just rearranged his sticks and vines to make it easier for him.
I just dusted them a little bit. Ive been back to the pet store twice today. Another friend said I should get him some nutri cal so I had to go back again. Maybe my stress is freaking him out?
D
DavidBuchan
Guest
Have a drink, woman, pull yourself together....
Keep calm and carry on, that's the spirit, lolHave a drink, woman, pull yourself together....
Lol I got one! Im feeling much calmer now.
Elizadolots
New Member
Sometimes they have better luck climbing on vines rather than the cage. Meaning if he's climbing the cage, that might be what's tricking him up, rather than weakness. If he's managing to catch himself before he hits the ground, it seems to me he may just be having difficulties with his footing (again, the thing with the cage) rather than being unable to climb.
I think think a post shower pout is not uncommon.
Hang in there. Maybe go somewhere for a drink. Get away from the anxiety ridden chameleon show for an hour or so. It will probably do both of you good.
I think think a post shower pout is not uncommon.
Hang in there. Maybe go somewhere for a drink. Get away from the anxiety ridden chameleon show for an hour or so. It will probably do both of you good.
KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
And not a single crap was given that day about the huggle...
Elizadolots
New Member
Hit the gardening section of the hardware store and see if they have this:
It's great for creating vines, easy to attach and not expensive at all.
It's great for creating vines, easy to attach and not expensive at all.
Finally had time to read through this whole thread. Welcome to the forum and the world of chameleons! You've been given some good advice....maybe this will help to explain the reasoning for some of it...
If he has MBD (and falling can be a symptom of it) it means that his calcium/nutrient levels are not right and they need to be brought back in line and then kept there. You'll find information below about what it should be to keep it in line once its there...but if it is MBD that is causing his falls, you still need to get it there by giving him extra calcium and making sure that the D3, phos., vitamin A are not out of balance.
Here's some information I hope will help you with things like supplements, gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
If he has MBD (and falling can be a symptom of it) it means that his calcium/nutrient levels are not right and they need to be brought back in line and then kept there. You'll find information below about what it should be to keep it in line once its there...but if it is MBD that is causing his falls, you still need to get it there by giving him extra calcium and making sure that the D3, phos., vitamin A are not out of balance.
Here's some information I hope will help you with things like supplements, gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
