Chameleon eye abscess maybe? Help Please

NickSwizzle

New Member
Hello I bought my veiled chameleon from a pet store and she had this tiny bump on her eye and I assumed that’s just what she looked like can anyone tell me what it is and if I should be concerned? She’s also about 4-5 months
 

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It could be any number of things....infection, debris stuck in the turret, parasite issues, etc. Not much you can do to fix it yourself...vet is likely the only option.
 
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I think it was @MissSkittles who also had an issue very similar to this. What is your supplement schedule? Do you use prEformed or prOformed vitamin A?
Not quite. Grumpy had transient edema from I suspect using Repashy Calcium with LoD as it resolved when I stopped using it daily. This little one looks like there’s a plug or something in there. @snitz427 had similar issues with her sweet Penne. https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/flushing-eyes.173308/page-4#post-1618527
 
Not quite. Grumpy had transient edema from I suspect using Repashy Calcium with LoD as it resolved when I stopped using it daily. This little one looks like there’s a plug or something in there. @snitz427 had similar issues with her sweet Penne. https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/flushing-eyes.173308/page-4#post-1618527
I heard if they sleep during the day that it’s extremely bad and I walked in on my chameleon after school sleeping until I woke her up.This was 4pm should I I be worried?
 
I heard if they sleep during the day that it’s extremely bad and I walked in on my chameleon after school sleeping until I woke her up.This was 4pm should I I be worried?
Yes, it is bad for them to have their eyes closed during the day. :( It was suggested in your previous post to have your husbandry reviewed. I think It would be beneficial to do that. Here’s the questions again. Just copy & paste with your answers. Don’t forget pics of your cham and entire enclosure, lights to floor.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Yes, it is bad for them to have their eyes closed during the day. :( It was suggested in your previous post to have your husbandry reviewed. I think It would be beneficial to do that. Here’s the questions again. Just copy & paste with your answers. Don’t forget pics of your cham and entire enclosure, lights to floor.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
1.Veiled chameleon around 4-5 months and I’ve had her for 1 month.
2.I’ll handle her every other day but when I feed her I sometimes let her crawl onto my hands for the food and I put her back.
3.I feed her 5 crickets and 1 meal worm a day,I also put fruit for the crickets to gut load them
4.The supplement I use is repti calcium
5.I most her cage by hand every few hours but about 5 times a day
6.Poop seems normal and the tiny white piece doesn’t have too much orange or really none at all.She pooped today
7.I live in Houston Texas

Cage Info

1.I use a screen cage with plastic curtains around the cage to keep in humidity.
2.I use the basic Zoo Med dual compact lights
3.I keep her temp around mid 70s at the top of the enclosure and high sixties at the bottom
4.I don’t have anything to check the humidity levels but I don’t think this is an issue as I spray her cage a lot
5.I use a live succulent plant which she eats sometimes
6.She’s in my room and there is a fan but the plastic around the cage keeps it warm inside
7.Houston Texas
 

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That looks very much like Penne's issue. It could be that there is a foreign object in there (dirt, stuck shed, etc), but its more likely that it is a keratin buildup and fluid which are caused by Vitamin A issues. Every chameleon responds differently, and Penne is the only one of my 8 who developed an issue (I also used Repashy LoD at that time and believe it contributed to the issue).

She's going to need to see a competent reptile vet to have her eye(s) flushed, and the underlying vitamin a issue addressed. I went to 3 different vet visits before changing vets... the new vet finally flushed my girls eyes (in about 15 minutes) and her eyes look great now. Even if you fix the supplementation issue, the eye buildup is not going to clear up on its own. I would talk to the vet ahead of time to ensure they are comfortable and experienced in flushing their eyes and removing keratin deposits, so you don't waste time like I did with a vet who, while very well known locally with reptiles, didn't flush her eyes after 3 visits and 3 requests to do so.
 
That looks very much like Penne's issue. It could be that there is a foreign object in there (dirt, stuck shed, etc), but its more likely that it is a keratin buildup and fluid which are caused by Vitamin A issues. Every chameleon responds differently, and Penne is the only one of my 8 who developed an issue (I also used Repashy LoD at that time and believe it contributed to the issue).

She's going to need to see a competent reptile vet to have her eye(s) flushed, and the underlying vitamin a issue addressed. I went to 3 different vet visits before changing vets... the new vet finally flushed my girls eyes (in about 15 minutes) and her eyes look great now. Even if you fix the supplementation issue, the eye buildup is not going to clear up on its own. I would talk to the vet ahead of time to ensure they are comfortable and experienced in flushing their eyes and removing keratin deposits, so you don't waste time like I did with a vet who, while very well known locally with reptiles, didn't flush her eyes after 3 visits and 3 requests to do so.
So glad that sweet Penne is doing great! ?
 
Okay, I’ll be putting my replies in red.
1.Veiled chameleon around 4-5 months and I’ve had her for 1 month.
2.I’ll handle her every other day but when I feed her I sometimes let her crawl onto my hands for the food and I put her back.
3.I feed her 5 crickets and 1 meal worm a day,I also put fruit for the crickets to gut load them Ok, but...mealworms aren’t so good for chams. Variety is best - attaching feeder info sheet. Some of the feeders you may need to order on line. Try adding more greens and veggies to what you feed your buggies. Attaching ‘gutload’ sheet too.
4.The supplement I use is repti calcium With or without vitamin D3? You also need to be giving a multivitamin. Depending on whether your calcium has D3, I’ll suggest a good one for you.
5.I most her cage by hand every few hours but about 5 times a day Usually just 3 times a day for at least 2 minutes each time is fine. You want it to dry out in between.
6.Poop seems normal and the tiny white piece doesn’t have too much orange or really none at all.She pooped today perfect. The white is urine, called urate.
7.I live in Houston Texas

Cage Info

1.I use a screen cage with plastic curtains around the cage to keep in humidity. What size? It looks to be maybe a 16x16x30”. She really needs much larger...a 2x2x4’ or equivalent. This is much nicer than the Repti Breeze and about the same price. https://www.diycages.com/collection...ducts/sc4-48x24x24-jumbo-vertical-screen-cage
2.I use the basic Zoo Med dual compact lights This is most definitely one of your problems. The compact uvb only provides a very narrow area only a few inches away of correct uvb levels. You need to get a T5 ho fixture with a 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. It needs to be long enough to span the width of your enclosure.
3.I keep her temp around mid 70s at the top of the enclosure and high sixties at the bottom You need to increase her basking temps to 80, but no higher than that.
4.I don’t have anything to check the humidity levels but I don’t think this is an issue as I spray her cage a lot Ideal humidity is between 30-50% which is a lot drier than you’d think. It’s important to be able to measure humidity.
5.I use a live succulent plant which she eats sometimes I suggest getting some pothos and/or philodendron. Both are very similar in ease and speed of growing and both provide nice long vines for extra traveling area. I’m not sure if that succulent is safe for her to be eating, so I suggest removing it. I don’t recall seeing it on any safe lists when I was looking for succulents for my beardie and geckos. Also, replace the plastic plant...if she eats that she’ll get impacted. I hang my fake plants on the outside for additional privacy from my eyes.
6.She’s in my room and there is a fan but the plastic around the cage keeps it warm inside
7.Houston Texas

While it does appear that she has something in her eye which your vet should try flushing out, lack of multivitamins, specifically vitamin A can cause eye issues. Having a female, the supplements and uvb are more important than ever for problem-free egg laying. I do have to ask...are you aware that she will lay eggs whether mated or not? If you need any guidance or info on that, please do ask. She is fast approaching maturity and egg-laying age.
Do let me know if your calcium has D3 or not and I can better guide you to further supplements and a good regimen. :)


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The supplements I use are without D3 and do you know when I should be expecting her to start laying eggs ? Any suggestions on anything I should change?
 
The supplements I use are without D3 and do you know when I should be expecting her to start laying eggs ? Any suggestions on anything I should change?
Ok, so you’l, want to use the calcium without D3 at every feeding except for one every 2 weeks. That one feeding you’ll want to get and use Reptivite with D3...it’s a multivitamin and D3 combined. There’s one without D3 so read the label carefully. Reptivite is one of the very few that has preformed vitamin A, which is needed for eye health.
Laying eggs really takes a lot out of them and shortens the lives of our ladies. :( This is why we try to reduce the frequency that they lay as well as number of eggs thru keeping them at lower basking temps and feeding less. In about another month you should be starting to feed her every other day, the same amount of 5 feeders is ok. After she’s laid her first clutch, you’ll want to cut her back to about 3 feeders either every other day or 3 days a week. It may take a couple of cycles to see any reduction in laying. You’ll want to keep her basking temps no higher than 80. Here’s a great article that explains it.http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html
Somewhere around 6 months old, she’ll start showing her pretty colors and patterns and become restless...this is the receptive phase. She’s all dressed up and looking for a man! It’s at this time that you’ll want to start preparing a lay bin. Anytime from a few weeks after she’ll start looking plump and maybe even lumpy and may show some color changes. Mine’s dots get darker when gravid. I’d suggest getting a kitchen type scale that measures in grams and monitor your girl’s weights. Knowing ‘normal’ and gravid weights will help in the future.
Lay bin and laying: Get a plastic tote at least 12x12x12” and drill a few tiny drainage holes in the bottom. Get some play sand from any home improvement store, rinse away some of the dust and fill the bin to about 8” deep. The sand needs to be kept moist enough to hold a tunnel without collapsing. Keep in mind they don’t dig straight down, but at an angle and one of mine dug horizontally. They seem to prefer to lay against the sides and plant roots. I always suggest keeping it in the enclosure permanently to not only avoid her stress of having a new item, but to avoid your stress of guessing when she needs it. You could add a bit of organic soil mixed in and place a plant in the corner. Don’t forget she’ll need a couple of ways to get in/out of the bin. Once she enters it and starts digging, she’ll need absolute privacy. Cover just the visible areas of the enclosure with a light sheet. I cut peek holes so I can monitor and make sure she’s ok. It takes a couple of days and she may sleep in the hole. She may dig several ‘test’ holes until she’s happy with one. You’ll know she’s all done when she’s sitting on her basking branch, dirty and much thinner and has covered her hole. Hydrate and feed her well for a few days and then return to her regular feeding schedule.
My ladies have each laid once this year, back in Feb and March and while they’ve had 2 receptive cycles since then, they haven’t laid any more clutches.
 
My Jackson has the same thing. Taking him to the vet on Sunday. I will let you know what the outcome is.
Hey man I took mine to to get today and it turned out to just be calcium deficiency so she’s gonna be ok,I would assume the same for yours but take it just in case.
 
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