This one is still a mystery

Slinkymouse

New Member
This one was sexed as a male but a couple of months ago, all responses on here said female. Now at 9-10 months, does everyone still agree? Reptile store where I purchased from still confused by this one. Ridges on head and build say male but absence of colour at this age indicates female - am I correct? Also, is the bulge not enough of a bulge to be male? Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    312.3 KB · Views: 217
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    320.5 KB · Views: 250
My 5 month old male is full of color and has a very clear bulge, can't miss it!
Now not every panther is as lucky so it may be harder to see on some, but in this cage lack of bulge and color would make me think female.

Any chance of a bulgeshot without curled up tail?
 
My 5 month old male is full of color and has a very clear bulge, can't miss it!
Now not every panther is as lucky so it may be harder to see on some, but in this cage lack of bulge and color would make me think female.

Any chance of a bulgeshot without curled up tail?
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 
Just dusting with calcium powder...should I be doing more?
Is it calcium with D3 or without?

Supplement schedule should be....calcium with NO D3 every feeding, Calcium with D3 twice a month and a multivitamin twice a month. That is three separate powders. Or you could get some Rapashy Calcium Plus and dust everyday with that....that is what I use, it's an all in one but it is the only all in one I would trust. Overdosing on D3 is not good.

I want to say he is a male from that last tail picture. But those colors.....What locale is he? Some are late bloomers with their colors. What color is he when he's sleeping or when he's really fired up?
 
This panther confuses me!
I think you will get your answer soon since it's 9-10 months old so I'd be expecting gravid colors soon if it's a female...
 
This panther confuses me!
I think you will get your answer soon since it's 9-10 months old so I'd be expecting gravid colors soon if it's a female...
Very confusing indeed

Can I also point out the age old adage, calcium at every feeding is excessive. I may be inviting the hurt on this one, but you guys actually supplement EVERY feeder you offer? Cuh-Rayzee
 
Very confusing indeed

Can I also point out the age old adage, calcium at every feeding is excessive. I may be inviting the hurt on this one, but you guys actually supplement EVERY feeder you offer? Cuh-Rayzee
No not EVERY feeder but I dust at least my staple feeders daily.
 
No not EVERY feeder but I dust at least my staple feeders daily.
what's the motivation? Someone told you to? I'm no vet, but I did stay at a Holiday in express last night, and I don't see the point. I'm truly not trying to start a fight here. If it works for you, do it, but is your gutloading not up to par? that's really the only reason id imagine it would be useful outside of an animal with a bad case of MBD.
 
what's the motivation? Someone told you to? I'm no vet, but I did stay at a Holiday in express last night, and I don't see the point. I'm truly not trying to start a fight here. If it works for you, do it, but is your gutloading not up to par? that's really the only reason id imagine it would be useful outside of an animal with a bad case of MBD.
For me it was reccomended by the care sheets and later by the breeder where I baught my panther...
I also think a lot of the feeders will lose their calcium because of the mistings.

Other than that I'm not to concerned of overdosing calcium but more concerned that my still growing panther would get MBD.

I agree that most of us are probably overdosing supplements, but that doesn't have to be harmfull.
Most vitamins and minerals will likely just be discarded by the body if the body has to much of it.

I wouldnt mind to hear a vets view on this.
 
what's the motivation? Someone told you to? I'm no vet, but I did stay at a Holiday in express last night, and I don't see the point. I'm truly not trying to start a fight here. If it works for you, do it, but is your gutloading not up to par? that's really the only reason id imagine it would be useful outside of an animal with a bad case of MBD.

For me personally, right now my panther will not let me take him out no matter how I try and so he's not getting any outside time so I am making sure he is covered. When I get better lighting from LYR and I am able to take him out in the natural sunlight then I will adjust accordingly. Also, like @Remkon stated, it is the schedule put into the care sheets and also I am following what Krammer's told me that they have has success with. I don't do the 3 powders anymore and I have gone to the Rapashy. I feel like it is all trial and error but I don't want to try and have an error with my guy, I trust Krammer's and the testing that they have done with their supplementing. I do have a good gut load but there are days, though far between that I may not get the good gut load in them so the supplementing helps when I am lacking a bit.

Now, that is me personally. That being said, I think that for the general new cham keeper, some may fall shot on the correct husbandry, gut load and feeder variety and so then getting in those supplements becomes very important. It's always better to teach new owners to supplement and then as they learn and get better they can decide if it is too much or too little. And after all the cases of MBD that come through here it is obvious to me that supplementing is very much needed to be taught and kept simple in the beginning.
 
@PJK , the supplementing schedule is a guide. It is intended to offer the best advice for keepers so they can be successful. It, like other "rules" are up for modification if you wish. Most keepers likely do not consistently gutload their feeders properly even when they try, (OK, maybe not most...) and this routine in the caresheets is a great general guide. It will vary with the quality of gutload and even the type of lighting or exposure to natural sunlight. I agree that for adults it would not be necessary to dust everyday, but they usually don;t eat every day so it gets a little tricky trying to monitor exactly how much is given or needed.
By the way, since you did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last nigh, are neanthe bella palms toxic to chameleons? I don't think they are, but can't remember and was trying to answer in another thread. :D:LOL::ROFLMAO:

;)
 
Fired up colours are darker brown and white, there is no additional blue or green colouring. When seemingly content is either a grey/brown or a slightly yellowish brown. He/she is a blue bar ambilobe.
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg

Is it calcium with D3 or without?

Supplement schedule should be....calcium with NO D3 every feeding, Calcium with D3 twice a month and a multivitamin twice a month. That is three separate powders. Or you could get some Rapashy Calcium Plus and dust everyday with that....that is what I use, it's an all in one but it is the only all in one I would trust. Overdosing on D3 is not good.

I want to say he is a male from that last tail picture. But those colors.....What locale is he? Some are late bloomers with their colors. What color is he when he's sleeping or when he's really fired up?
 
what's the motivation? Someone told you to? I'm no vet, but I did stay at a Holiday in express last night, and I don't see the point. I'm truly not trying to start a fight here. If it works for you, do it, but is your gutloading not up to par? that's really the only reason id imagine it would be useful outside of an animal with a bad case of MBD.

What do you use as your gutload? What you may consider good may actually be crap. No offense. Several greens people gutload with should only be used on occasion, such as spinach and kale, most lettuces aren't useful either. Fruits are mostly high in phosphorous compared to their calcium ratio, only a few are considered a healthy gutload to use on its own. In any case, if your chameleon does not get regular outside time or does not have an up to date uvb lamp, calcium is severely important. Though d3 is received from the natural sun, calcium is only absorbed with good uvb. Therefore if poor uvb is more of a constant calcium should be used on a regular basis to therefore optimise absoprtion. Remember most captive bred chameleons have little to no wild genes in them which means they are predisposed to calcium and vitamin related deffeciencies. No matter how 'good' of a gutload you feed your insects, they are still captive bred colonies, and will never ever match up to the calcium and vitamin that the wild caught bugs hold.
 
Could you please advise me as to which Repashy supplement to use...there seem to be a few

Also, I'm going to try the Repashy gut loader but which one...what is the difference between gut loader and bug burger?

Thanks
 
Back
Top Bottom