Please Help The noob

noob

New Member
So a friend of mine picking up a chameleon on a whim decided he doesnt want it ,, me being a relstively experienced herp keeper, has been called upon to adopt it.

My problem is i know lil about chameleon habits problems etc, etc,
im not even sure on the exact species of the thing.

i have in my collection now a boa, ball python, australian water python and a small clutch of scorpions,
which is nowhere near as tasking as a chameleon.

the scientific name of the species or so im told is ''bradypodion deremensis'' my friend told me it was sold to him as a three horned usabara

So thats said where do we go from here.

iI have the animal in a 4 foot high, screen inclusure which rests on the floor he has ample reptivines heavily fooliaged and has spots where he can be hidden or exposed if he wishes,

im using areptiglo 5.0 uvb flaurescent tube covering the entire length of the flexarium,Also a heat lamp 75w sun glow for a basking spot.

i turn all lights off at night only because my friend said the guy from the petstore told him too.

ive been mist watering 3 to 4 times a day and watch him drink before i leave

I have crickets running rampant in his home but i have yet to see him eat.

Mainly what i am asking is HELP! i have little idea of what i am doing any info would be a godsend.

I need someone to hold my hand in this,

i have to priorities first,priorty identify the chameleon and its care needs then work through the rest as it comes up.

So if anyone can identify'' bradypodion deremensis' as sold as usabara three horned chameleon and send me ANY info



Much thanks ill be posting a pic tomorrow to make things easier tytyty
 
I think you might get more responses if you posted in the General Discussion forum. Just quickly, I think you should put the cage up on a table. Chameleons like to be able to climb above the heads of all the other creatures in the room. So, ideally the top of the cage should be a bit above your head.

I'm impressed you've seen him drink. Some owners say they never see their animals drink. The same is true of eating, so maybe keep track of the number of crickets. He might be shy about eating in front of you.

Can he see the other reptiles? If so, maybe block that view.

Chameleons need to cool down so they can sleep for the night. "Lights out" is the right way to go. If you live in a house that gets dramatically cold, consider a small ceramic space heater to warm up the area the cage is in.

You'll find lots and lots of excellent information on this site and people who've been raising chameleons for decades, so this is the right place to be!
 
''bradypodion deremensis'' my friend told me it was sold to him as a three horned usabara

It's actually trioceras deremensis or Usambara three-horned chameleon. I do not personally have experience with this particular chameleon, but many others do. They will offer help. Post pics as soon as you have them and fill out the help form: https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/

This thread is also good for some help: https://www.chameleonforums.com/deremensis-tips-35968/
 
thanks alot guys im sure me and my new friend will be happy here, i wont be shy to ask for help
 
the scientific name of the species or so im told is ''bradypodion deremensis'' my friend told me it was sold to him as a three horned usabara

iI have the animal in a 4 foot high, screen inclusure which rests on the floor he has ample reptivines heavily fooliaged and has spots where he can be hidden or exposed if he wishes,
I have crickets running rampant in his home but i have yet to see him eat.

Wow, that's a pretty amazing give away! Deremensis is a less common "montane" species native to cooler moist forest. Male or female? Males have the 3 horns. You will want to provide a cage with a LOT of live potted plants as these guys need higher humidity (over 60% with periods of higher RH), moderate temperatures (you don't need any kind of fancy basking spots...a regular house light bulb is fine), the UVB tube you have, and lots and lots of misting. The dense foliage will hold the misting droplets longer, provide drinking, and stabilize humidity, so the more the better. Deremensis can be very secretive and sedentary and many of them don't actively hunt down prey. They wait in hiding for prey to walk right up to them and don't like to be watched. Free ranging crix in the cage might not be a great idea as they can harrass or chew on your cham at night when they are asleep (they are almost torpid at night). I've found that hanging a plastic storage box in the foliage right under their nose with a couple of insects (so they can watch and shoot at their leisure) works OK. They really key in on green colored feeders.

Deremensis has amazing color shift abilities. They can show slowly moving areas of paler green "clouds" across their skins, black spotting when stressed, and are extremely sensitive to light levels. For example, if the cham is sitting behind a leaf or twig, a shadow of darker color can form on the part of the skin "behind" the object. When the cham moves, you can see this shadow for a few moments.

Maybe you can tell I think they are amazing. I hope you enjoy it, or find someone who does. Good luck!
 
Live potted plants,

Wow, that's a pretty amazing give away! Deremensis is a less common "montane" species native to cooler moist forest. Male or female? Males have the 3 horns. You will want to provide a cage with a LOT of live potted plants as these guys need higher humidity (over 60% with periods of higher RH), moderate temperatures (you don't need any kind of fancy basking spots...a regular house light bulb is fine), the UVB tube you have, and lots and lots of misting. The dense foliage will hold the misting droplets longer, provide drinking, and stabilize humidity, so the more the better. Deremensis can be very secretive and sedentary and many of them don't actively hunt down prey. They wait in hiding for prey to walk right up to them and don't like to be watched. Free ranging crix in the cage might not be a great idea as they can harrass or chew on your cham at night when they are asleep (they are almost torpid at night). I've found that hanging a plastic storage box in the foliage right under their nose with a couple of insects (so they can watch and shoot at their leisure) works OK. They really key in on green colored feeders.

Deremensis has amazing color shift abilities. They can show slowly moving areas of paler green "clouds" across their skins, black spotting when stressed, and are extremely sensitive to light levels. For example, if the cham is sitting behind a leaf or twig, a shadow of darker color can form on the part of the skin "behind" the object. When the cham moves, you can see this shadow for a few moments.

Maybe you can tell I think they are amazing. I hope you enjoy it, or find someone who does. Good luck!

I am having dificulties picking plants i looked at the post and found that hybiscus would be the least toxic but hard to grow in my viv,,, any suggestions on good easy safe plants to use for my deremensis? im going plant shopping this weekend

He is male
 
:) Welcome

With regards to plants, there is a live plant database if you have a look on the homepage, but i use fiscus (weeping fig) for Gizzy, a pothos plant and her fave of the moment the schefflera. She just loves hiding under it`s umbrella like leaves. The database can give you a better idea of toxicity though.

You already seem to be along the right lines, but i know nothing about this species of cham as i have a vieled. Good luck although i`m sure you won`t need it. :)
 
I am having dificulties picking plants i looked at the post and found that hybiscus would be the least toxic but hard to grow in my viv,,, any suggestions on good easy safe plants to use for my deremensis? im going plant shopping this weekend

He is male

Plant toxicity won't be as much of an issue for a cham species that doesn't munch on leaves or twigs. I don't know of anyone's deremensis eating plant material. Ficus, Schefflera, Pothos would all work. Really fill the cage. If you can't find the cham easily it is about right. Hybiscus would be tough to maintain in the lower light conditions a deremensis would prefer. What is more of a toxicity issue is the potting soil (systemic pesticides, fertilizers, perlite mixed in) and residue on the leaves from the nursery. It's standard practice to thoroughly clean off the foliage and repot all new plants with soil that has no added fertilizers or pesticides. Some does not contain perlite, but if you can't find that type, just cover the surface of the soil with stones or screen so the cham doesn't ingest it when shooting at feeders. You are going to be spraying or fogging the cage a lot, so make sure your pots are well drained (good drain holes and some pebbles in the bottom). You'll want some sort of drain pan for the cage bottom if your's doesn't have anything now. Get a good quality humidity gauge. You will need to monitor the level accurately. Depending on the humidity level in the room you may need to run a room humidifier and aim the fog into the cage. To help keep the level higher, you can hang some plastic sheeting on cage back and/or sides to hold in moisture and protect the surroundings from overspray.
 
ty

I have him in pretty direct sunlight so i guess i will move him to another corner of the room.

and thank you guys for all the tips, i find the care sheets drastically under informed.

My cham seems to have found a spot near the bottom of his cage i find this odd because there is next to no foliage down there, could it be that he is having trouble climbing back up? (the vine there is a lil thick)

And if there is anything else anyone can think of please let me know, this is the only animal i adopted without studying for months prior, but he needed a home and i fell in love with him
 
I have him in pretty direct sunlight so i guess i will move him to another corner of the room.

and thank you guys for all the tips, i find the care sheets drastically under informed.

My cham seems to have found a spot near the bottom of his cage i find this odd because there is next to no foliage down there, could it be that he is having trouble climbing back up? (the vine there is a lil thick)

And if there is anything else anyone can think of please let me know, this is the only animal i adopted without studying for months prior, but he needed a home and i fell in love with him

I didn't see anyone mention supplements. Your cham needs calcium WITHOUT d3 everyday. Calcium WITH d3 twice a month and a multivitamin once or twice a month.

You may also want to install a drip system so your cham can have plenty of access to water.

It is not normal for a cham to be sitting at the bottom of his cage but like carlton mentioned this species isn't as active as other's and likes to sit and wait for its food. You need to buy a quality thermometer and hydrometer as montane species are more delicate.
 
I didn't see anyone mention supplements. Your cham needs calcium WITHOUT d3 everyday. Calcium WITH d3 twice a month and a multivitamin once or twice a month.

You may also want to install a drip system so your cham can have plenty of access to water.

It is not normal for a cham to be sitting at the bottom of his cage but like carlton mentioned this species isn't as active as other's and likes to sit and wait for its food. You need to buy a quality thermometer and hydrometer as montane species are more delicate.

thanks for the supplement info i will go to the pet store right after work in the morning.

Also is there such a thing as over misting? too humid,,, mould issues aside
 
My cham seems to have found a spot near the bottom of his cage i find this odd because there is next to no foliage down there, could it be that he is having trouble climbing back up? (the vine there is a lil thick)

I find that a bit odd too. Maybe he's just getting used to the new digs. If you don't have something to make quick vines, you might head to your garden/hardware store and pick up some of this:

41icGT%2Bx6lL._SL500_AA280_.jpg


Someone here recommended it and it makes great vines that even my small chameleons can climb.
 
thanks for the supplement info i will go to the pet store right after work in the morning.

Also is there such a thing as over misting? too humid,,, mould issues aside

Yes, you can definitely over humidify but you would need a cool mist humidifier running pretty much constantly for that to happen. You wont over humidify by hand misting. If you don't have a dripper, misting 3x a day for a couple minutes should suffice. Just make sure the cage drys out between mistings and also make sure you have drainage for your cage.
 
thanks for the supplement info i will go to the pet store right after work in the morning.

Also is there such a thing as over misting? too humid,,, mould issues aside

What you want to create are cycles...I try to "mimic" a daily cycle of humid morning, warmer drier mid day (but this isn't extreme...we're talking a few degrees as deremensis avoid bright lighting and heat), humid later in the afternoon. I did this mostly with lights, a small desk fan, and an ultrasonic humidifier on timers. some ultrasonic humidifer fans are enough to exchange the air. My fogger ran in the early morning until the humidity reached about 80%. The UV tube came on next. Basking spot mid morning, fan on for a few hours midday, basking spot off mid afternoon, humidifier on long enough to raise the humidity again, UV tube off later in the afternoon. Everything off at night. Air exchange is the key. Stagnant constantly high humidity is the problem.

Actually, my deremensis male spent a lot of his time lurking low down in the foliage at the base of plants. It might be cooler or more humid there or he is trying to hide.

Montane species are very sensitive to supplements especially vitamins. If in doubt, use less. Rely on careful feeder gutloading rather than supplements.
 
Congrats on your adoption! I breed West Usambara two-horned chameleons that come from the same region of Africa

http://www.elct-ned.org/index.php/en/projects/19-irente-biodiversity-reserve/2262-the-usambara-mountains-of-tanzania

There are many serious wildlife conservation issues there so it is important you succeed with this guy and maybe even do some breeding.

I was gonna quote all his comments, but I'll just say that Carlton is rather wise and generous with his advice. As for the cham I agree that bottom dwelling is suspicious (but don't force him to climb up). Incase he is sick you should google as many deremensis images as possible -- and some video -- to see if you cham looks healthy in comparison. Also since you need alot of water you need a drainage strategy to take it all away.
 
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