RESCUE JACk50N trying to bring him back to life;HELP;?!

[shineru]

1. the purpose of the reptisun is not to heat. reptisun 10.0 not recommended. the only purpose of the reptisun is to provide uvb for vitamin d3 synthesis.
5.0 is a proven montane bulb, 10.0 has proven to be problematic for some chams and or keepers.

less than thriving jacksons should have reduced temps anyway. (max80* in the sweet spot of the uva basking.)

2. waterfalls and dishes of water are steadfastly proven cham hazards especially where montains are concerned.

as somebody who has performed significant amounts of microscopy, and read hundreds of requests for help from people with sick chams, i can tell you that this is a very real, serious, and probably fatal hazard.

3. the cage is completely devoid of foliage. remember the goal is not to make the cage look cool, but to meet his care requirements. any goal towards improving the aesthetic qualities of the cage needs to be secondary to his care requirements.
what he needs is foliage and lots of it !!!!!
it doesnt matter what you think of the cage, it only matters what he thinks of it.

cage needs to be setup bare bottom, plants should have soil redone for hygienic planting (to discourage parasites), fiberglass screen should cover the top of the soil and 1"+ flat stones should be used to hold the screen down (jacksons like snails, do not feed wild snails due to pathogen risk, but the stones you use to hold the screen on top of the soil must not be sized or resemble snails, or he may try to eat them that is why the are best flat and 1"+).
live plants also give off oxygen, something important to an animal that comes from remote pristine areas, but is now kept in an indoor environment., live plants are also necessary to maintain the proper temp and humidity gradients required.

4. cage should have a lineal 6500k (kelvin color temp) for plant health and better (brighter) viewing experience. imo, you cannot maintain a healthy thriving jacksons without a predominance of live plants, let alone return a compromised specimen back to health. imo schlefferas are the hardiest of the safe plants that stand up well to hygienic planting (hygienic soil replacement) you can get a single schleffera for less than $20 that will fill 85-90% of the cage (ideal)

5.the only light intended to provide heat is the regular 40watt incandescent house bulb, and only during daylight hrs. jacksons are a mountainous arboreal species that means they like cool nite temps, predominately cool day temps, lots of foliage and that they are most comfortable (least stressed) when high up (basking spot at eye level or above) and the ability to be almost invisible amongst the foliage.
the incandescent household bulb produces the reduced heat requirements of a montane and supplies uva which is a necessary component of the lighting plan. uva helps discourage depression and provides a general sense of well being as well as provides appetite stimulation. stress is a major cause of cham illness, the more stressed your cham is, the more susceptible to metabolic issues he will be (ie loss of health).

6. you can choose to learn from the collective experience of keepers who have already learned by making the same mistakes (including myself), or you can just argue their merits, until it is too late to save your cham.

by the time a cham has issues noticeable to inexperienced keepers, it already has serious, possibly life threatening, metabolic issues.
everyday a cham spends in a compromised state of health, it is closer to becoming acute + irreversible, ie; non recoverable status.

sick chams can often go from being saveable to being irrecoverable in matter of days. everyday wasted in implementing these proven suggestions, is a day wasted in terms of recovery. every day your cham spends in a compromised state of health, it becomes less likely that he will recover.

7. the experience of almost 15 yrs of cham keeping and keeping dozens of jacksons tells me that your chams clock is ticking and time will soon rapidly run out to fix these issues. you can choose to fix them now and possibly save your cham, or you can choose to debate them while your cham becomes closer to being un-saveable. once osmotic lysis and/or renal failure sets in, there is NO hope of recovery.

8.there is a reason they only exist in a few small corners of the world. the basic idea is to re-create that environment as closely as possible, fail to do a decent job of that, and he WILL die. (and it wont be a mystery)

9. ps edit; please understand that the purpose of this post is to help not to criticize, but sometimes a wake up call is the best way to help, imo this is one of those times.

10. these are just the issues noticed in your last post, and they dont even address the issues of diet, gutloading or supplementation. if you want to save this animal, or even keep it alive, a crash course in montane husbandry is strongly recommended. jmo (but what do i know)

While Mr."WhatdOikNOW" has 15years of exp as i see, i think im going to agree on most of the stuff you are saying, this is why i postedt his thread. & why i even saved him in the first place, i know it might already be too late but even that 1% still counts in my eyes, thanks for giving it to me strait i prefared this respond then nuffin at all. i am going to keep a regular update on him so please anything else step by step todo list would be great. am posting up all his info right now i spend the whole day today taking care of him and the cage and the crickets been gut loaded and everything. hopefullly i hear more from you on what to do with him, and by " crash course in montane husbandry " ? what do you mean by that

 

[shineru]

Chameleon Info:

Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?

Chris is a Jackson Jacksoni, i think hes a male? since hes been in the petstore for like 4-5 month i assumed that hes about 5-6months?
and hes been with me for about a week.

Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?

Never unless i have too, i assumed he beens to stress out from people in the petshop so im trying to calm him down

Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the
schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?

i feed them crickets that dusted with calcium and i give him with d3 maybe once or twice a month or every 6weeks. i have recently gaved it some crickets that did have some d3 dusted in them just incase he didnt have any but i only done it once and i dont plan to do it againg in another 6 week.
I have flunkers the orange cubes that gives them water and food all at once, i also put a little bit of the calcium i dust my crickets with and i use some veggies and another product that is green that is good for them too its just like flunkers.

Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?

I used repti calcium and repti calcium with D3
my schedule is everyday calcium and once or twice every 6week with D3

Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?

I currently have a waterfall ( wich im taking out ) but i heavy mist him for 5 min 3-4 times a day

Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?

No he has not been tested for parasites but the first time i put him in hes new cage wich was smaller than the one he is now in, well he poop this weird clear and brown stuff and the pee was white but it was verry weird looking poop but i havent seen him poop like that since then, i think it was because he didnt nothing at all that day.

History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

4-5 months in a 5gallong glas tank with just a waterdish and a air stone and poor verry poor uvb light and barly any basking light at all the light in there was verry little and he was right infront so everyone who walked in the store always saw him -__- (shaking my head ) smh i had to rescue this poor little guy ''/

Cage Info:

Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?

I have a ZOO MED REPTIBREEZE (LARGE) ALUMINUM SCREEN CAGE
18 x 18 x 36

Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is
your daily lighting schedule?

I have reptisun 0.5 uvb with its lamp fixture that runs strait across in a sigly cross angel & i have a regualr hardware store lamp with a 50watts basking light bulb

Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?

The Basking spot is only on one side in a conner of the cage and up top its stay btwn 80-85 and it drop down to 70-75'f i have a temp gun so when i do take his tempeture hes 81 or lower or so it never gets pass the 85'f probaly never even seen it reach 85 but aside from that i do have something insdie the cage that tells me how hig or low the temp is. & over night the tempeture drops 10- so it stay around its 60 or so since i do keep the a.c on in my room but since its broke it doesnt get much cooler than 75 or so.

Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?

the humidity stay btwn 70-75 and for now im using the water fall to maintain the levels pluss i heavy mist him for 5min everyday for about 3-4 times a day.

Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?

Dont have any in there but i dont have a baby vine plant im going to put in tomorrow morning - planing to get more

Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?

Next to my room window that never gets open becaused its block and curtains are always shutt, he's on a nice table that probaly 7-9feet off the ground so he deffenaly way above my bed so he feels more safe.

Location - Where are you geographically located?

I live in New York Brookyln clossed to the beach somewhat..

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

Hes a rescue Jacksonii in need of help just want him back up in hes feet.. did i mention that yesterday night he was this bright yellow while sleeping.. but he does move around and is active.

 

[shineru]

Obviously I've had way too much wine to be posting here....

Probaly shouldnt be drinking and reading in the dark at such late hours [;

 

[harmona1]

I wish you the very best luck with your cham. I just lost my little Panther that I'd only had 5 days, and am absolutely heartbroken. Hopefully at least one of us is able to save our critter.

 

[xanthoman]

presented in 2 pts due to txt limitations

Chameleon Info:
thank you for the help form, this will make everything infinitely easier to understand for both of us.
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Chris is a Jackson Jacksoni, i think hes a male? im not saying its not a j. jacksonii, but imo it appears to have typical xanth coloration. j.jacksonii's typically(but not 100% of the time) have a yellow swash down the side. if you view some of the first pics on this page imo he looks more like the xanth pictured https://www.google.com/search?num=1...=1024&bih=629&sei=RLb2T9ntGai42QWZm-CEBwsince hes been in the petstore for like 4-5 month i assumed that hes about 5-6months? and hes been with me for about a week.i dont think the petstore could have kept them alive at 1mth, so im thinking (and also based on its appearance) that it is more likey at least 7-8 mth old. if it is a xanth it is definitely a male.
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Never unless i have too, i assumed he been to stress out from people in the petshop so im trying to calm him down. imo excellent call, imo the less handling the better, especially when still being acclimated, this is one of the reasons best to do as much cage work as you can a good job of, in one fell swoop, so he doesnt have to be bothered with it for a while.
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
i feed them crickets that dusted with calcium and i give him with d3 maybe once or twice a month or every 6weeks. i have recently gaved it some crickets that did have some d3 dusted in them just incase he didnt have any but i only done it once and i dont plan to do it againg in another 6 week. i dont know your location but outside sun is good , imo if you can setup a makeshift cage outside, and get him a couple of hrs of outside daylight a week, then you could skip the d3 alltogether, which imo, is preferable. imo the benefit of natural daylight usually outweighs the detriment of handling. imo a good plan is to try and offer a d3 free regimen during summer and add some d3 during winter according to how much natural daylight it gets, if its getting more than 2 hrs a week no d3 is necessary or desired. if he doesnt get any outside sun then imo a matchead of d3 for a half dozen cricks,1-2x a month is plenty, depending on the product.
I have flunkers the orange cubes that gives them water and food all at once, imo flukers oc is fine, although im not a big fan of the orange cricket gel i also put a little bit of the calcium i dust my crickets with and i use some veggies and another product that is green that is good for them too its just like flunkers. its important to remember that any foods or supps you give need to be figured into the overall nutritional plan.when it comes to things like vitamins, too little is almost always preferable to too much. most over the counter products are imo too highly vitamin fortified to be suitable as regular montane fare, imo cheapest and best in the long run to make your own gutload from easily obtained ingredients. its important to remember that just because something is natural or a vegetable, that in itself does not make it cham healthy fare, goitrogenic vegeatables are a good example of unhealthy veggie items. a basic overview of desireability of food items can be found here; http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutritionframeset.html more detailed info can be found at sandrachameleons nutritional blog here;https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
I used repti calcium and repti calcium with D3
my schedule is everyday calcium and once or twice every 6week with D3
im assuming you mean rep cal, its important to be specific as there are many almost identical sounding supplements and knowing the specific supplement is the only way of determining the appropriate dosage for it, imo 2 matcheads a week of plain cal is plenty, once again, howmuch d3 depends on how much natural daykight and the specific product as they have widely varying values. imo cricks arent that great of feeder they are approx 200% they are approx 200%too high in phosphorus, imo, the overwhelming likely hood is that he has probably had too many. as a good rule of thumb, no single feeder should make up more than 40% of its diet and imo cricks arent suitable for that portion imo, it would be good to offer some new fare for a while and might also help with any hunger issues. imo a good food item to stasrt with would be some bsfl or black soldior fly larva, sometime referred to as pheonix worms or calci worms. imo waxworms are the single worst feeder you can feed your cham.
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
I currently have a waterfall ( wich im taking out ) but i heavy mist him for 5 min 3-4 times a day imo, this is good,4-5x a day until his cage is almost drenched but it needs foliage for the proper effect. if you have any water that stands for more than 15 min a reduction in watering or a drainage plan is in order. in addition to misting he should have a dripper going all daylight hrs. imo best not to water within 2 hrs of lights out
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
No he has not been tested for parasites but the first time i put him in hes new cage wich was smaller than the one he is now in, well he poop this weird clear and brown stuff and the pee was white but it was verry weird looking poop but i havent seen him poop like that since then, i think it was because he didnt nothing at all that day.//////would be super helpful if you could post a macro pic, generally speaking yellow is common but a sign of dehydration. orange= warning flag. gelatinous or runny stinky pooh s often a sign of parasites imo its a good practice to have a fecal float done on all new animals and about every 1-1.5years after. pt2 to follow

 

[Trillian]

Shineru, the pet store won't have plants big enough for him at the moment, though they do have some nice live plants, they are very tiny and expensive. You can go to Home Depot or any other similar store and get a pothos (plant in a hanging pot, the one I got was inside with the houseplants and was labelled on the pot), and a schefflera (also called an umbrella plant, the one I found was outside the front of the Home Depot with other tropical-looking plants). These are both excellent plants for Chris and stand up pretty well to being kept indoors. Just get whichever ones will fit comfortably in his enclosure.

 

[xanthoman]

pt2

History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
4-5 months in a 5gallong glas tank with just a waterdish and a air stone and poor verry poor uvb light and barly any basking light at all the light in there was verry little and he was right infront so everyone who walked in the store always saw him -__- (shaking my head ) smh i had to rescue this poor little guy ''///// i understand that you have good intentions, please believe that i do too. although my apologies, i am not always great at communicating that. its important to understand that the timeline between being savable and being not saveable is often very small, so its important to get things moving in a positive direction asap. my aplogies if i getfrustrated in trying to get that point across.
Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? I have a ZOO MED REPTIBREEZE (LARGE) ALUMINUM SCREEN CAGE 18 x 18 x 36/// imo how it is setup is more important than having a full size cage although imo it should eventually have a 24x24x48
Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
I have reptisun 0.5 uvb with its lamp fixture that runs strait across in a sigly cross angel & i have a regualr hardware store lamp with a 50watts basking light bulb. /// i prefer to have the basking spot about 6-8" from the top of the cage and the reptisun uvb about another 4-6" above the top of the cage, this will provide a margin of safety if your animal decides to cage crawl. imo, ok to havbe the plant bulb directly on top of the cage so long as it doesnt obstruct the reptisun. dont understand hardware bulb, just to be clear most flood type lamps are excessive and infra red is way too much heat and does not provide uva
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
The Basking spot is only on one side in a conner of the cage and up top its stay btwn 80-85 and it drop down to 70-75'f i have a temp gun so when i do take his tempeture hes 81 or lower or so it never gets pass the 85'f probaly never even seen it reach 85 but aside from that i do have something insdie the cage that tells me how hig or low the temp is. & over night the tempeture drops 10- so it stay around its 60 or so since i do keep the a.c on in my room but since its broke it doesnt get much cooler than 75 or so. overall this is a good plan. you should be aware that ir temp guns have a #number of pitfalls for accurate specific temp measurement. among them they only measure the reflected temp of solid surface objects, rthey do not measure ambient air temp. for the $ i am a big fan of the $20 zilla hygro/therm pictured here;https://www.chameleonforums.com/mem...zilla-hygrometer-thermometer-other-stuff.html ///if 75 is as low as you can get it it wouldnt hurt to hang a damp towel over the cage at night just before he crashes.
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
the humidity stay btwn 70-75 and for now im using the water fall to maintain the levels pluss i heavy mist him for 5min everyday for about 3-4 times a day. /// 70-75 is a good range although it seems unlikely that you could maintain it without foliage. imo hydration is more important than humidity. imo, he should also have a dripper going during all daylight hrs and i recommend not misting within 2 hrs of lights out.
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Dont have any in there but i dont have a baby vine plant im going to put in tomorrow morning - planing to get more /// imo you dont just want a single temp, humidity or lighting density and live plants are the conerstone of balancing all of it. i recommend schleferra as the plant that best holds up to hygienic soil replacement. for less than $20 you can get a schleferra that fills 85-90% of the cage would be ideal.
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Next to my room window that never gets open becaused its block and curtains are always shutt, he's on a nice table that probaly 7-9feet off the ground so he deffenaly way above my bed so he feels more safe. this is ok, fans and open nearby open windows are not recommended. although they are sensitive to air quality so it would be good if you can get an exchage of air in the room at least 1x every 24hrs.
Location - Where are you geographically located?
I live in New York Brookyln clossed to the beach somewhat../// if your temps are above 55 and you have a spot to do it an outdoor makeshift cage would allow you to drop d3 altogether. i recommend saving d3 for winter according to how much sun it gets and product used.
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
Hes a rescue Jacksonii in need of help just want him back up in hes feet.. did i mention that yesterday night he was this bright yellow while sleeping.. but he does move around and is active. /// it can be a real hurtful thing to loose an animal. there are probably very few keepers who havent been through that, including myself. we will all do our best to see that that doesnt happen. bright yellow while sleeping is not a common xanth trait so that could indicate the possiblity of it being j. jacksonii.
for the short term i would familiarize yourself with the food choices on the beautiful dragons website and follow up with sandra chameleons blog. implement any of the discussed changes that you are able to and post back if there is any thing you are not sure about.

as far as food choices imo cricks are a terrible staple, i prefer to reserve them for purposes of supplementation which they are better for dusting than most feeders. a dubia colony would go a long way towards reducing your feed bill and offer a healthier main fare . in the meantime it would be good to get away from cricks for a while i recommend some bsfl, if your petstore doesnt have any they are all over online. bottle flies are dirt cheap and an all time montane favorite and often a great strike breaker. although handling them can take a little getting used to. they can be had at mantisplace.com

although i dont think its important to understand for the short term, here is a basic overview of cham metabolism
Information on Vitamin D3, Parathyroid Hormone, Calcitonin and Calcium.

Information on Vitamin A, Benefits of Vitamin A.

 

[shineru]

History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
Hes a rescue Jacksonii in need of help just want him back up in hes feet.. did i mention that yesterday night he was this bright yellow while sleeping.. but he does move around and is active. /// it can be a real hurtful thing to loose an animal. there are probably very few keepers who havent been through that, including myself. we will all do our best to see that that doesnt happen. bright yellow while sleeping is not a common xanth trait so that could indicate the possiblity of it being j. jacksonii.
for the short term i would familiarize yourself with the food choices on the beautiful dragons website and follow up with sandra chameleons blog. implement any of the discussed changes that you are able to and post back if there is any thing you are not sure about.

as far as food choices imo cricks are a terrible staple, i prefer to reserve them for purposes of supplementation which they are better for dusting than most feeders. a dubia colony would go a long way towards reducing your feed bill and offer a healthier main fare . in the meantime it would be good to get away from cricks for a while i recommend some bsfl, if your petstore doesnt have any they are all over online. bottle flies are dirt cheap and an all time montane favorite and often a great strike breaker. although handling them can take a little getting used to. they can be had at mantisplace.com

although i dont think its important to understand for the short term, here is a basic overview of cham metabolism
Information on Vitamin D3, Parathyroid Hormone, Calcitonin and Calcium.

Information on Vitamin A, Benefits of Vitamin A.

Thanks i'm going to do my best to get him everything possible tmrrw

 

[shineru]

I wish you the very best luck with your cham. I just lost my little Panther that I'd only had 5 days, and am absolutely heartbroken. Hopefully at least one of us is able to save our critter.

Thanks manq i just lost my 40-60day old baby male vield and trust me i know what your going threw, best of luck with the next one

 

[shineru]

By the way everyone i got some reall nice pictures of him, i recently took him out today and he turn to this dark green and this is the first time i seen him anything to normal so i think hes getting there so happy that he showing signs of getting better and not worse

 

[Elizadolots]

Probaly shouldnt be drinking and reading in the dark at such late hours [;

Or, you could post more clearly....It was not very late and I hadn't had much wine...I made the effort to be polite.....sadly, it was a one way street.

Shineru, the pet store won't have plants big enough for him at the moment, though they do have some nice live plants, they are very tiny and expensive. You can go to Home Depot or any other similar store and get a pothos (plant in a hanging pot, the one I got was inside with the houseplants and was labelled on the pot), and a schefflera (also called an umbrella plant, the one I found was outside the front of the Home Depot with other tropical-looking plants). These are both excellent plants for Chris and stand up pretty well to being kept indoors. Just get whichever ones will fit comfortably in his enclosure.

As noted in this thread, I found great pothos plants at a Farmer's Market. However, a plant in one of my cages came from WalMart. Unless you live near LLL, I doubt that buying a plant at the petstore is going to be worthwhile.

By the way everyone i got some reall nice pictures of him, i recently took him out today and he turn to this dark green and this is the first time i seen him anything to normal so i think hes getting there so happy that he showing signs of getting better and not worse

I look forward to seeing them.

 

[IronHulk]

@xanthoman
I have a question for you it's on topic so I will post it here. In this case he is also dealing with over supplementation. As stated first thing to do is stop supplementing, Would giving them increased drinking water help to flush the organs faster ? I know mine once stimulated will drink a lot especially If i am doing it by hand with a spray bottle, what do you think ?

 

[shineru]

Or, you could post more clearly....It was not very late and I hadn't had much wine...I made the effort to be polite.....sadly, it was a one way street.

Dnt take it personal! or not? wich ever i dont really care, but everyone needs to be quite ( & by that, its a nicer way then me saying what i really wanted too but i cnt cause there are young kids in here that their parrent would'nt apreciated reading what i wanna say ) when you dont understand something that i write dont make a side comment about it (^like you just did^) because all that going to bring up is me wanting to corse you out, its not like you even helping me corrext my mistakes. your just been a dick, i had already recently put someone on the spot on private messsage am not gunna say no name or nothing because they already know what it is with them, so please keep it official and strait about my jacksoni other comments i dont really care about, am not here to make friends. just to help this poor little guy, and i swear if i get one more comment or p.m about me been stupid for saving this chameleon life.. >____< well will just see the outcome.

Againg thank you so much for the ones who haved helped me out threw this i apreciated it alot and am sure that chris apreciated you guys alot once againg thank you for everyone time i shall post some new pic's after this post so you guys can see hes update.

 

[Ulrich]

Don't need to escalate. I think everybody is trying to help and you did a great sacrifice in the first place to take your cham in. One thing that strikes me by reading through this thread is that you should pay more attention to principles and details of husbandry faster, especially if you have an already weak cham. I mean you should follow rigorously the instructions of setup of cage, lighting, temperature, feeding, especially with an already weakened cham. No personal interpretation, no deviation. It will help the animal to recover faster. I admire your drive to help the animal. But is is a start only.

 

[shineru]

Don't need to escalate. I think everybody is trying to help and you did a great sacrifice in the first place to take your cham in. One thing that strikes me by reading through this thread is that you should pay more attention to principles and details of husbandry faster, especially if you have an already weak cham. I mean you should follow rigorously the instructions of setup of cage, lighting, temperature, feeding, especially with an already weakened cham. No personal interpretation, no deviation. It will help the animal to recover faster. I admire your drive to help the animal. But is is a start only.

I'm sorry but am very much bipoler at times and the rush of anger is too much to control sometimes, specialy when people ppisst me off. look am doing everything possible in my hands to make it happen for him, today im on a mission to get him the fogger pluss those plant he oh so much needs, also he seems to be getting back to normal. i know it may not look like much what doing for him but im doing everything that is my hands, am staying up all night reading about him and what not, trying to find a good vet and am doing everything possible i can , Im even fighting with the wife because she thinks since i got my chameleons i dont pay much attention to her and am always on this forums and if not reading books or online about how i can help him get better, and she doesnt understand sometimes i guees, but all i keep on thinking to get me threw out the day is that i am giving him a much better home & shoot at life at the moment then that nasty petstore. It just realy pisses me off when people try to tell me i should off let him raw in the petshop, just wouldnt be fare . I'm from new york where if you want good karma you have to give back with out expenting anything back, and if someday i die and return to this life been a chameleon at a petshop i would want someone out there to find in his heart to buy me and give me a better home. sometimes we gotta walk a mile in someone elses shoe's to really understand what they all gotta go threw. but its the little thing that you or other people say sometimes that keep me going thankk you soo much for your post.

 

[shineru]

As you can probaly tell his color seem to be getting back to normal [x
This was the first time i actualy took him out for a few minutes to handel him

 

[Swayne8998]

He is starting to look better. I hope he has a long-lived life

 

[shineru]

He just finished waking up and threw out the whole night he was a bright yellow with that stripe ont he side of his belly, this pictures is specialy for all of you guys who think hes not a jacksoni this was taking july5th after i changed up hes cage

 

[shineru]

This is chris chilling on the top of the new branchest i bought him at the shop









hope u guys enjoy

 

[shineru]

He is starting to look better. I hope he has a long-lived life

Thanks mannqq you have no idea how much i apreciated your comment [=